Thought you guys would find this interesting. I took my f150 truck to a friend of a friends tranny shop for regular service. I change the fluid every 20k. I asked him what fluid he uses as mine requires mercon V. He said well "normally I just use penzoil or valvoline that is sold in bulk to me." I replied what do use in your cars? He replied, "honestly, I use Amsoil in all my cars oil and tranny." He mentioned that he does not use it for his customers because the cost would put him out of business. I'm tempted to go the Amsoil route but need a little nudge because i have this reluctance to buy oil that I cannot find in one single retail store. I would appreciate any ones experience and any pros, cons. the cost dosen't matter to me if I'm getting a better fluid that will keep my tranny and engine nice and happy.
What my tranny guy said
- Thread starter Not the Autorx Frank
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Amsoil is sold is some retail stores. In fact it's sold at some NAPA stores.
But why not buy it from a site sponsor here, such as myself? It's really quite easy. No tougher than ordering from any catalog sales place. The delivery is really quick because of local warehouses.
But why not buy it from a site sponsor here, such as myself? It's really quite easy. No tougher than ordering from any catalog sales place. The delivery is really quick because of local warehouses.
I use Redline gear oil but for ATF I have used Amsoil for 10 years now in the follow brands: Toyota, Ford, GM, Isuzu and Nissan. refuse to own a Chrysler product.
The ATF really is a good product. I do a drain and fill on all vehicles with a 30,000 miles service period. Toyota has had it since 25,000 miles, now 153,000. Had the pan off about 20,000 ago and the only thing that needed cleaning was the magnet, had some debris on magnet but screen and components looked great. Amsoil says it can go triple the 30,000 and I have never had a sample analyzed so I cannot say on that. Depends on driving an use as well. Anyway, a grrat product, pricey but excellent.
The ATF really is a good product. I do a drain and fill on all vehicles with a 30,000 miles service period. Toyota has had it since 25,000 miles, now 153,000. Had the pan off about 20,000 ago and the only thing that needed cleaning was the magnet, had some debris on magnet but screen and components looked great. Amsoil says it can go triple the 30,000 and I have never had a sample analyzed so I cannot say on that. Depends on driving an use as well. Anyway, a grrat product, pricey but excellent.
You can buy Amsoil direct from the corporate website as well. You must pay a fee for "preferred customer" status and can obtain products at dealer price. They also have a toll free order line. Oil is no featherweight, so shipping of it can be expensive, and based on my experience, upwards of 2 weeks to receive an order.
I've noticed Amsoil at the local NAPA, price was over $9 per quart across the board, for either oil, ATF, or gear lube, and limited selection. If you don't already know, Amsoil is a multi-level marketing organization, hence the lack of availability at common retail locations.
I've noticed Amsoil at the local NAPA, price was over $9 per quart across the board, for either oil, ATF, or gear lube, and limited selection. If you don't already know, Amsoil is a multi-level marketing organization, hence the lack of availability at common retail locations.
Rebel - with all due respect - 2 weeks? Wow! Maybe something was out of stock....the local warehouses ship the same day, plus the freight on a case is the same (a little over $7) no matter where you are in the lower contiguous states. I almost always get the stuff out of the Portland OR WH - the next day (especially the oil sample kits
)
Plus - if a person orders direct from the corporate website - the site sponsors here get a big zero - and that means no money to funnel back to this site. And if someone wants to buy a case +, it does make sense to be a preferred customer - through a site sponsor, who gets the fee, and the tiny commission.
Also nothing is stoping dealers from signing any store up as a retail account - it's the store that is slapping that mark-up on - So yes it makes sense just to buy through a dealer.
THANKS!
Plus - if a person orders direct from the corporate website - the site sponsors here get a big zero - and that means no money to funnel back to this site. And if someone wants to buy a case +, it does make sense to be a preferred customer - through a site sponsor, who gets the fee, and the tiny commission.
Also nothing is stoping dealers from signing any store up as a retail account - it's the store that is slapping that mark-up on - So yes it makes sense just to buy through a dealer.
THANKS!
We at this site, feel that marketing is a key factor when it comes to oil. Part of marketing is service. Now, consider this... Where are you right now? Here, why? cause you can get answers that are from different companies. Neat thing is, you get to know who the guy on the other end is, tell if he gives you the information you're looking for, helps with your issues, and that is what you need when you're looking for a place to buy oil. You cannot get that from a local napa or autozone as most people in those places do not specialize in lubrication just parts sales. So why not consider helping keep good dealers around on this site, by buying through them, because it is they (among others) that pay for advertising and time/effort put into working on here as a resource that helps keep information and this site free to you and everyone else.
Just like Bob, he takes the time to show with simple but interesting little tests on the basics about oil, helping people understand how and why's. The reason? Because he believes that knowledge is power and the better a person understands the why and how's of oil, the easier for you to make an informed choice. That too is what all of these reps hope to accomplish, to help inform and educate, thus making it easier to chose what you want.
So, by all means keep in mind what this site is about and how it is/has helped you and consider how you and others can help by supporting all the work done by everyone. If you are going to buy the product, then it really isn't going to cost much if any more to use these guys than to go to the local guys. It's a win win for everyone. I have noticed that there is many others on here that keep recommending going elsewhere because of price, but in the long run, its not price its service and help, which you can't beat from these guys.
Thanks for taking the time to take these issues into consideration.
Just like Bob, he takes the time to show with simple but interesting little tests on the basics about oil, helping people understand how and why's. The reason? Because he believes that knowledge is power and the better a person understands the why and how's of oil, the easier for you to make an informed choice. That too is what all of these reps hope to accomplish, to help inform and educate, thus making it easier to chose what you want.
So, by all means keep in mind what this site is about and how it is/has helped you and consider how you and others can help by supporting all the work done by everyone. If you are going to buy the product, then it really isn't going to cost much if any more to use these guys than to go to the local guys. It's a win win for everyone. I have noticed that there is many others on here that keep recommending going elsewhere because of price, but in the long run, its not price its service and help, which you can't beat from these guys.
Thanks for taking the time to take these issues into consideration.
This does not make sense, your tranny shop has the sense to use a great product himself, but not let his customers in on something that could save them money??? Shame on him!!
Please have this guy give me a call, I'll set him straight about makeing more profit than he ever imagined!!! On transmission services.
Lastsly you need a nudge?? Well here you go.
How about going 3 times longer than you do now? So that would be 60,000 between changes!
How about lowering your transmission temps 20-50 degree during extreme operation, either heavy pulling or hot stop and go traffic.
How about this, I have an RV'r that pulls this giant 5th wheel. Every year he goes to califonia, and pulls donner pass. 2 years Prior he has had to pull over to let his transmission cool because it was pushing 250 degrees.
This last year he pulls the whole hill, transmission never gets over 210. Has the pedal to the metal no problems. The only thing he did different was put in Amsoil.
Hope this helps
[ March 06, 2003, 10:34 AM: Message edited by: msparks ]
Wow guess I'll need to try this stuff out. I need to calc out how much I need. I have a F150 2001 screw with a 4rw70. (i think I got that right). and a 2000 toyota avalon. I am going to change the pan in the truck to a b & m with a drain plug. I think this pan holds 3 xtra quarts.
thanks guys!!!
thanks guys!!!
MolaKule
Staff member
There are 3 ATF's that I prefer.
For the newer vehicles in my family "fleet" I use either Amsoil ATF or Mobil 1 ATF.
For the older trucks in our fleet (mainly the Burbs), I prefer the Schaeffer's #204S ATF. An excellent deal for those 700R4's and the early 4L60E's.
For the newer vehicles in my family "fleet" I use either Amsoil ATF or Mobil 1 ATF.
For the older trucks in our fleet (mainly the Burbs), I prefer the Schaeffer's #204S ATF. An excellent deal for those 700R4's and the early 4L60E's.
You could also think about putting an external filter on your trasmission. Then by doing an oil sample and periodically changing the filter you can increase your interval indefinately! Since it looks like you are going all the way!!quote:
Originally posted by Not the Autorx Frank:
Wow guess I'll need to try this stuff out. I need to calc out how much I need. I have a F150 2001 screw with a 4rw70. (i think I got that right). and a 2000 toyota avalon. I am going to change the pan in the truck to a b & m with a drain plug. I think this pan holds 3 xtra quarts.
thanks guys!!!
I use an external Full Flow Filter on my E4OD transmission. After installing the filter you do a flow check. You can get the specs from the Dealer. It has to flow so many ounces in a certain number of seconds.
The trans fluid is a light weight oil and flows very good. In fact I use an Amsoil Full Flow on the setup I have.
There is a TSB on my trans that if the Dealer has to replace it, they must install an external filter and it gives the part number. I think this TSB applies to the 4R100 also and I am not sure how many others.
On a used transmission that has been driven for awhile install the filter on the return line. On a new trans install the filter on the line going to the cooler.
Any one that has had a problem did not do a flow check. You should do this when installing external coolers or filters. But most don't. Even Ford has to do this after installing the filter, part of the TSB.
The trans fluid is a light weight oil and flows very good. In fact I use an Amsoil Full Flow on the setup I have.
There is a TSB on my trans that if the Dealer has to replace it, they must install an external filter and it gives the part number. I think this TSB applies to the 4R100 also and I am not sure how many others.
On a used transmission that has been driven for awhile install the filter on the return line. On a new trans install the filter on the line going to the cooler.
Any one that has had a problem did not do a flow check. You should do this when installing external coolers or filters. But most don't. Even Ford has to do this after installing the filter, part of the TSB.
Not...Frank,
I'd consider an ATF cooler instead of the pricey drain pan. They have kits for adding a drain plug to your original pan.
I'm using an ATF filter from Racor, their LFS22825
The filter element in any filter has to be suitable for transmission fluid. Some elements are lube only, some are dual lube and transmission, and some are transmission only...don't ask me the the difference.
Vetteman,
Can you describe the flow check?
Ken
[ March 06, 2003, 02:12 PM: Message edited by: Ken2 ]
I'd consider an ATF cooler instead of the pricey drain pan. They have kits for adding a drain plug to your original pan.
I'm using an ATF filter from Racor, their LFS22825
The filter element in any filter has to be suitable for transmission fluid. Some elements are lube only, some are dual lube and transmission, and some are transmission only...don't ask me the the difference.
Vetteman,
Can you describe the flow check?
Ken
[ March 06, 2003, 02:12 PM: Message edited by: Ken2 ]
That filter looks nice. Where can you buy them?
And how often are you supposed to change the filter? How much do the filters cost?
And how often are you supposed to change the filter? How much do the filters cost?
Ken2
After total installation of pan or cooler or filter, fill to normal level after the trans is warmed up. With the trans in park, (this is for a Ford 1995 E4OD) remove the return line from the transmission housing, it will be the line in the rear of the trans. Start vehicle and the flow will be 32 ounces in 15 seconds.
The tranny above does not have a Cooler Bypass Valve (CBV), but if your transmission does make sure it is operating correctly prior to doing the flow test.
Flow rates for an E4OD 89-94 are 24 ounces in 15 seconds, casting number E9TP-7A105-BA.
Flow rates for an E40D 95-98 are 32 ounces in 15 seconds, casting number E5TP-7A105-AA
Flow rates for the 4R100 are 32 ounces in 15 seconds, 98-00, I do not have the rates for the newer years.
If your flow rates are not sufficient work back ward, remove the input hose to the next item in the return line. Such as the cooler input line and test the flow there. You are isolating components then to find a restriction. Or it may be the input to a filter in the return. Just work backwards isolating each component.
Hope this all makes sense.
[ March 06, 2003, 03:15 PM: Message edited by: 59 Vetteman ]
After total installation of pan or cooler or filter, fill to normal level after the trans is warmed up. With the trans in park, (this is for a Ford 1995 E4OD) remove the return line from the transmission housing, it will be the line in the rear of the trans. Start vehicle and the flow will be 32 ounces in 15 seconds.
The tranny above does not have a Cooler Bypass Valve (CBV), but if your transmission does make sure it is operating correctly prior to doing the flow test.
Flow rates for an E4OD 89-94 are 24 ounces in 15 seconds, casting number E9TP-7A105-BA.
Flow rates for an E40D 95-98 are 32 ounces in 15 seconds, casting number E5TP-7A105-AA
Flow rates for the 4R100 are 32 ounces in 15 seconds, 98-00, I do not have the rates for the newer years.
If your flow rates are not sufficient work back ward, remove the input hose to the next item in the return line. Such as the cooler input line and test the flow there. You are isolating components then to find a restriction. Or it may be the input to a filter in the return. Just work backwards isolating each component.
Hope this all makes sense.
[ March 06, 2003, 03:15 PM: Message edited by: 59 Vetteman ]
If I owned a vehicle with an automatic, I would definately have one of those! Anyhow, as far as the change interval. I would say once a year should be good. Of coarse Oil analysis would be the best way to determine the drain/filter interval!
Here is the price list as well.
http://www.parker.com/racor/pdf/2003RacorListPrices.pdf
Looks like it's about $117, I don't know if that is the wholesale or retail price though.
http://www.parker.com/racor/pdf/2003RacorListPrices.pdf
Looks like it's about $117, I don't know if that is the wholesale or retail price though.
dieselinjection.com/racor.html has them for $81. Racor recommends changing the element @ 1-yr or 30k miles. Racor told me that the initial pressure drop through this filter is 0.25 psi @ 6 micron absolute filtration. (Interesting tidbit...the spin-on cartridge has the Racor label and is made in Finland.)
Ken
[ March 06, 2003, 03:54 PM: Message edited by: Ken2 ]
MoleKule,
Your reasons for the full syn ATF, pls.
Ken
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