What "issues" do you just "live with" on your older vehicle?

‘87 BMW 325 es 85k miles:
-Oil leak on engine right side
-Sunroof rattles when open
-Shift position indicator light off one position
-Both front seats need new reclining gas struts
-Tie rod ends are a little loose
-Brake lining light on most of the time
-AC non functional
 
The Sonata:
Passenger rear window control doesn't work. I don't sit back there so whatever.

Center console doesn't close as the tabs broke off. I used adhesive Velcro strips and a bunched up napkin to keep them closed.

Driver sun visor won't stay up. Again, adhesive Velcro strips do the job.

Issues with the key tumbler not lining up, preventing the key from turning and thus unable to start it. Usually, this was just jiggling the key around and continuing to try. After trying for half an hour to get the key moving, I got stranded at a place and had to get picked up. I went back six hours later and it started right up. This is "fixed" by just leaving the key in, which I will do. Don't worry, it's "disguised".

A steering shimmy that shows up between 78-82mph. The easy fix is to go faster.

The car is otherwise a warrior. Some battle scars along the way, but she's a keeper!
 
both Hondas are running smooth, so the tip top condition as of today

IMG_7219.jpeg
 
The 2017, 2015, and 2014, don't have any issues.

The 2000 WS6, I just need the foam replaced in the drivers seat. I keep that car just about showroom new.

The 1997 Z71 I need to do rear leaf spring bushing, fix a few interior bits and do some front suspension stuff.
 
My 2001 Dodge 1500 2wd has new brakes but the front end is shot at 84,000 miles, started squeaking during turns a while back

it’s all rust so just replacing ball joints is probably a waste of time and none of the kits I find are “complete “
 
HER VEHICLE, 2011 Toyota 4Runner, ~116,000 miles.
Any and every squeak has to be eliminated immediately.
All controls and accessories must work or be repaired ASAP.
I keep it in excellent mechanical condition.

MY VEHICLE, 2000 Nissan Maxima, ~176,000 miles:
I haven't locked the doors over the past ~5 years. The unlock mechanism doesn't work in cooler weather.
Inner tie rods are a bit loose, but no shimmy or tire wear.
Transverse link has a fluid filled vibration isolation bushing that leaked. Alignment is still good to leave as is.
Engine mounts are sagging but not gone. Replacement parts are made in China and not worth a nickel.
Rear control rod bushing is sheared. I lube it in the spring to keep it from squeaking.
21 years of Arizona sun exposure has seared the paint.
Everything else is mechanically good and fluid maintenance is current.
Vehicle is washed once a year if it needs it or not.
I should be able to drive this car for another 4 years.
 
Light "clunk" from inside passenger-side front door when driving on some rough roads.
Don't have a second ignition key.

2011 Camry, 82,929 miles
 
Bald tires with the cord showing through.
Engine smoking like a mosquito fogger
Burning or leaking a quart of oil between fillips
Muffler blown and scraping the ground on every bump
Bumper loose and scraping the ground on every bump
License plate taped in the back window
Busted windshield
Missing side glass

Oh, you mean what issues do I just live with on my older vehicle? Nope, none of those. Never mind then.
 
97 Volvo 960, Sunroof won't go back but it will tip up in the rear. Plastic guides broke and are no longer available from Volvo. The cause of that was the original seal went bad and leaked so I had a new one installed. The issue is, the seal is so tight that it binds the sunroof panel to the point that it breaks the plastic guides.
 
Just minor annoyances on my 8+ year old Patriot. A broken interior trim piece. An occasional intermittent creak, etc.. Lazy front seat belt retractors. Noisy tires. I'm very happy that the drive train, suspensions, electrical, etc. have been problem free - knock on wood.

To accept and adapt to life imperfections is a very healthy thing. To be consumed by life-controlling material possessions is very taxing and I am glad I mostly outgrew that phase years ago. To convince someone that suffers this otherwise is impossible based on my experience. To each his own. (Mandatory old man observations).

@miden851 - you have one of the rare garages not left with the drywall tape/mud still showing after decades!
 
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2012 Honda Civic. The drivers seat left side bolsteris barely starting to rip out. The rubber on the right side windows are starting to crack and dissolve away. Rear bumper cover is a little shaky looking from being tapped and repainted inexpensively. The brake pedal on one corner is wearing through showing bare metal. I replaced the hazed headlights with more powerful aftermarket units and it made the car look like new again. The paint has held out amazing well partially due to very frequent automatic car washes. No limit to the times I can run it through for the monthly fee. I have aftermarket aluminum rims which are like new but the factory hubcaps were losing paint from running though the automatic car washes all the time with brushes. My other car are in really good nick and I am going to either get a newer Honda Civic or buy a newer Corvette. The prices are too crazy right now to even think about trading any vehicle unless I have to.
 
Lose that key and you'll be spending $1000+ at the dealer for a new security module.
I can have them done for much less, and, in fact, have. However, you are correct about being careful. Been thinking about having the locksmith come and make a second key.
 
2019 tiguan can fill with fumes when started in the cold. Had it in multiple times. VW would not do anything for us. Was threatening to get rid of it and then car prices went through the roof. I will wait until things settle down. My 2014 audi A4 runs like new, other than the tires suck and need to be replaced. General tires start out great but very quickly get loud. Next spring after I take the winter tires off back to Conti's or michellines.
 
2002 Honda Accord automatic 235k. The transmission holds gear fine but it has a super long delay/flare when shifting. Also clunks every time I stop. I shift manually and know exactly how to tease the throttle and at what rpm and load to shift for the smoothest engagement. It’s not that I won’t fix it. I have another transmission to go into it. I just need to find the time to swap them and since it’s been acting like this for 6 years I’ve grown accustomed to it.
 
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