what is this thing called? (Plumbing item)

[Vikas]

Please excuse GHT style replies :-( But at least I am trying to scope the work instead of jumping in with the head first!

Even though I promised not to touch the bolt and the lock nut, I did play with it. I have managed to contain the leak. The bolt threads still get wet but overnight only few drops came out. This gives me now some breathing room to order replacement (parts) over the internet and NOT have to make emergency call to the plumber.

That area is barely a feet or less off the basement floor. So I can NOT put a 5-gal bucket underneath it. I have no faucet at the basement level, so I suspect all the standing water up to first floor will have to be drain first. Roughly how many gallons are we talking about here?

There is definitely no room plugging in the pressure gauge. There is no plug at the bottom. I do not see any seam at the bottom. The corrosion is because of the top bolt threads leaking water but otherwise the valve looks in good condition.

I am thinking that if I can count the exposed bolt depth, after servicing, I can put it back a approximately the same pressure. Assuming the rebuild kit is actually available (rather than being just a left over entry in the online data base), that would be the first thing to try. Failing that order the open box valve off the ebay.

 

[eljefino]

Get an old milk jug and run your shower for 15 seconds into it. Mark the level with a sharpie. After replacement, run it again and the same amount of water pressure will bring the level to the same point.

OTOH we all know how this works, raise the pressure 'till you blow a pipe and back it off 3 PSI.

 

[Andrew1972]

I still don't understand why you don't ask your local water department about the regulator valve? Rebuilding this thing is a nutso idea. I imagine the town will either supply a new one or simply replace it since there name is affixed to it.

 

[Vikas]

For some reason, that particular valve always has the sticker saying "City of LA" as can be seen from the photo off ebay. Since it is after the meter, I do not think our town has anything to do with it. I just confirmed it by calling the town water department.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Since it involves pipe cutting, it is time to call a plumber.


There is nothing difficult about sweating some copper pipe. No plumber needed-just go to a real plumbing supply company, find a replacement, turn off the water, cut the old one out and put the new one in.


I'm still putting off "the first time" until I can have someone experienced help me with it. I know it's supposed to be easy, but... get in over your head, and suddenly it's an emergency call to a plumber.

That and in my case, I'd probably wind up having to drain the house first. Extra hands would go a long ways.

 

[Vikas]

I am with you. I shirk away from repair where there is a chance of making things worse than what I start with. Sometimes I am forced to tackle it. Having somebody to oversee or help would be great. I bet there is a startup somewhere which is doing exactly like that

 

[dishdude]

I'm pretty handy and rarely call a pro in, but for this job I would be. The nice thing about this is you have a little time to call around and get pricing and referrals. If you tear into it and something goes wrong, you now are at the mercy of whoever you can get out. I also wouldn't trust myself setting the pressure to the correct level. If you have all copper plumbing, it'll probably be more forgiving but if it is CPVC or PEX it could be critical.

 

[Vikas]

Well; I ordered the rebuild kit. Before starting to take it apart, I would make few calls to recommended plumbers. Most of them would laugh at me but some might be reasonable on the phone.

I have seen discounted web prices for something similar in $200+ range. The list would be more in three or four for the whole valve and then the plumber might have to put in different unions adapters etc because the new PRV will be of different brand. So add in couple hours of his labor and I am looking at easily over $500 bill from him.

That is why I am going to try cartridge replacement for $50 first.

 

[Vikas]

Originally Posted By: blupupher
Shut water off, remove tension by loosening the bolt, remove black cap, install rebuilt kit, put back together and be done with it. The washer and/or the o-rings have probably just deteriorated and is why it is leaking, but if you have it apart, just do the rebuild on it IMO.
Biggest issue I see is getting the pressure set back correctly, but a pressure gauge looks like it is supposed to fit on the bottom.
Now that I have ordered the rebuild kit, you are going to be my consultant! I am going to mark/measure the thread aka control arms method I am assuming that brass housing has not corroded from inside.

 

[doitmyself]

This project is not over the top for first time diy. But, the above advice about being prepared for the worst is spot on. It's no different than vehicle work. Start the project on a weekday morning so you have time and options (stores open).

Do you have pro plumbing jobbers like Ferguson(click on) available? They cater to both professionals and homeowners. They can provide an exact fit replacement and walk you through the process.

After you get all your ducks in row, your first fix might be to just turn the adjustment knob in and out numerous times to clear any scale off the interior parts. That, in itself might stop the leak.

These fixtures are constructed to be rebuilt, so that might work also, unless there is physical damage (corrosion) to the unit. Your fittings are all screw (no compression)and there should be some play in the entire system by loosening some brackets here and there. It looks like you have a meter to the left. Pressure adjustment is not very sensitive on these units. Start in the middle and work from there. Your source pressure should not be damaging to start with. Your unit is to even out spikes and maintain something around 50 - 60 lbs. +/-.

In the GHT spirit, just drill a hole in the bottom of the unit to relieve the pressure leak at the top.

There are pressure gauges you can plug into a spigot to get a reading if you have no other screw plugs available:

You have flood insurance, correct???

Start watching those you tube video instructions!

 

[weasley]

Surely there should be a nut on that threaded portion on the inlet side? It looks like somebody has bodged a pipe-reduction adaptor into the inlet side between the isolator valve and the PRV. I'm guessing that joint is not going to open in an easily closable way.

 

[Vikas]

Originally Posted By: weasley
Surely there should be a nut on that threaded portion on the inlet side? It looks like somebody has bodged a pipe-reduction adaptor into the inlet side between the isolator valve and the PRV. I'm guessing that joint is not going to open in an easily closable way.
The PRV inlets and outlets have threads on both outside and inside according to the .pdf file posted. If I end up having to replace PRV, I might have to find the new threaded nipple (?) or that nipple might stay with the shutoff valve and then I won't need new nipple. So I am trying to avoid all that mess buy trying to service the PRV rather than replacing it.

I found something interesting on the web. His six seven hundred guesstimate matches mine too. His PRV is made by different company but the principle is similar.

 

[Vikas]

With the help of a close friend, we replaced the guts of the pressure regulating valve. We put the new cartridge. Draining the whole system first was the most cumbersome part of the whole job.

This is certainly an easy job for anybody who is little bit handy.

 

[Pop_Rivit]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
With the help of a close friend, we replaced the guts of the pressure regulating valve. We put the new cartridge. Draining the whole system first was the most cumbersome part of the whole job.

This is certainly an easy job for anybody who is little bit handy.


I never could quite figure out why so many people jumped on the "call a plumber" bandwagon. It's just plumbing-there's really nothing all that difficult about it, and something any homeowner with even the slightest skill can do. As you found out it really is just that easy.

 

[Vikas]

I think the reason lot of people are reluctant is that any screw-up and this can become a HUGE emergency in an instant. Getting leak or having to shut down the water is lot more painful than one of the car being down for couple of days.

For example, in our case we had a drain cock for the sprinkler system cut off. So using that we were able to drain that in to a bucket most of the cold water from the house pipes. But all of the hot pipes got drained when we removed the PRV. If not prepared, that could have made quite a big mess.

 

[doitmyself]

Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
I never could quite figure out why so many people jumped on the "call a plumber" bandwagon. It's just plumbing-there's really nothing all that difficult about it, and something any homeowner with even the slightest skill can do. As you found out it really is just that easy.

Outside one's personal bubble, people are different. There are many factors to this. Some are genetically predisposed different. This might explain why some people seem to be naturally better at mental activities (i.e. math) or better at physical activities (i.e. a mechanic or basketball player). Add to that a person's environment while growing up. How would a person never exposed to a wrench, welder, ratchet, or antiseize find it simple to change a spark plug or wire a junction box?

As you stated, "it really is that easy".

 

[JTK]

Sure any homeowner can tackle this, but my suggestion would be to make 100% sure you can completely isolate the water to your home before you start this project. This may include knowing exactly where your curb shut-off is.

I've run into a broken shut-off before the meter in my basement that sprayed water for several days before the water company could cut-in a new curb shut-off for me. Even the water company could not find the original and my home isn't that old (~1972).

 

[Vikas]

Quote:
Sure any homeowner can tackle this, but my suggestion would be to make 100% sure you can completely isolate the water to your home before you start this project.
Isn't that like 101 of tackling this type of project? If you mean that sometimes when you try to shut off the water, you could break the valve and make things lot worse, I agree with you completely.

Many shutoff valves get frozen as they don't get used for years.

 

[JustinH]

Originally Posted By: JTK
Sure any homeowner can tackle this, but my suggestion would be to make 100% sure you can completely isolate the water to your home before you start this project. This may include knowing exactly where your curb shut-off is.

I've run into a broken shut-off before the meter in my basement that sprayed water for several days before the water company could cut-in a new curb shut-off for me. Even the water company could not find the original and my home isn't that old (~1972).


My new "12 year old" house has a broken shutoff ball valve going to the water heater.

Learned that the other day when replacing an anode rod.. Had to cut it off at the curb with a curb key.