From the information you post I don't like that NULON oil.
First from the MSDS the "paraffinic distillate, heavy, hydrotreated" is just another way to say hidrocracked or group 3 oil and the "decene homopolymer, hydrogenated" is PAO or group IV, so in all fairness is not a true synthetic, but if it is group 3 or 4, full synthetic or not, really doesn't matter; take for example the new Pennzoil Ultra which is made out of natural gas, but it is only rated as group 3 so it's not a true synthetic (in my book there's nothing more synthetic than making oil from gas), but what matters in oil is the specifications it can or it can not pass. Unfortunately this information is provided by the oil company and sometimes they don't even know what they are talking about.
This leads me to the link you posted in which I find some inconsistencies and schoolboy errors in the info.
1) It claims an A3/B4 rating, but the range for sulfated ash for that rating is between 1.0 and 1.6 %, and they say that the ash is 0.618% so the oil can not be an A3/B4. Now in its defense they announce in the bottle a “Low SAPS technology”; but a “low SAPS oil” comes with the price of a low TBN, (and a low TBN requires the use of ultra low sulfur petrol) but they announce a TBN of 10.8; so now we have a mystical oil with high TBN and low SAPS, or the data sheet is wrong.
Either is an A3/B4, and they are lying about the sulfated ash and the manufacturer approvals, or, is a C3 oil and someone put the wrong TBN in the data sheet.
2) They say it exceeds BMW long drain 04, but the real name is BMW Longlife-04
3) They state a pour point of -30°C (the pour point is when the oil is a semi-solid), but at -35 the oil still flows with an MRV of 32000??, so obviously the info is wrong.
In reality we don't know at this point what kind of oil it is and what specifications it exceeds, it will help if they have formal approval from VW, but they don't appear in the
official list, so if they can't even make a good data sheet, how on Earth are they going to make a good oil. It will be like if you go to a cardiologist and he tries to hear your heart by placing the stethoscope in your head.
Now on the Molybdenum Dithiocarbamate (which is another precursor of sulfated ash), it is an extreme pressure additive that bonds to the surface of the metal to form a sacrificial layer that wears instead of the metal parts, and protects the engine when there is no oil at start up, but is like sugar, you want just the correct amount in your lemonade, adding more is not going to make it better. They go nuts in showing you how their oil protects better than any other because of this additive, and they even have people in white coats and a fancy machine to prove it but... They use an unrealistic test, that bears no resemblance to the operation of an engine.
1) They use literally “a drop” of oil to lubricate the surfaces, when every surface inside an engine is bathed in a massive amount of oil in a matter of seconds after start up.
2) They use the wrong geometry, they use a ball which has just one contact point with the surface, this increases the applied stress to levels an engine would never have, an engine uses cylinders with contact lines to distribute the forces. (think of main bearings, piston rings or cam rollers).
3) They use the wrong materials, the ball and the surface are made of steel, when in an engine the crankshaft is made of steel but the bearing is made of an alloy of copper and lead which is designed to wear instead of the steel.
4) They use the wrong frequency. 50 hz is equivalent to 3000 rpm, how many engines out there crank at 3000 rpm to start the engine.
So how much use is an additive that is there to protect your engine in conditions that will never happen???
So for all this reasons I consider this oil a BAD OIL and my recommendation is to AVOID LIKE THE PLAGUE!!!!!!!!!
