Warranty reasons excluded, would there be a reason to prefer a 0W20 over a 5W30?

[cammyfive79]

In reading and absorbing some knowledge around here, I've noticed a few oils have "better" approvals in the 0W20 flavor versus the same oil/series in a 5W30. By "better approvals", I'm going off of what many have mentioned be the best approvals/certs - MB 229.72, Porsche A/CXX, VW 507/09, etc. Now, again, as a lay person I don't have the breath of knowledge that some here do about what these approvals stipulate/require, but it does seem that those are often looked at as the most stringent.

So let's say your random vehicle doesn't require those approvals/certs and the manual says it is "recommended to use" a 0W20 but you don't have a warranty left so no reason not to use a XW30 or even an XW40....however the OW20 has "better approvals" than those higher grades, would the OW20 be a better oil to use for longevity/protection in that case?

I know this is probably quite vague but it is a random thought I had after reading my daily dose of BITOG threads.

 

[gfh77665]

If you live in Barrow, AK. 0w-20 will shine in extremely cold temps. In moderate TN, I would use 5w-30.

 

[earlyre]

all i can contribute are "butt Dyno" feelings... My old '09 Sable, factory called for 5w20 blend, I always used Full Syn. for a while I ran 0w20 for the winter, 5w20 for the summer, before eventually just going 0w20.
the butt dyno feedback indicated it seemed to like the 0w20. car just felt better. was there any real difference... not likely. was it all in my head? quite possibly

 

[cammyfive79]

If you live in Barrow, AK. 0w-20 will shine in extremely cold temps. In moderate TN, I would use 5w-30.

It's pretty moderate weather wise here aside from a few weeks in the 10 degree range so I'm sure either one would do fine based on weather.

 

[Propflux01]

The OP isn’t talking the effects of weight (grade) as much as the effects of the approvals/certs.

 

[gfh77665]

Yes they both would work, but the 5w-30 would provide slightly better protection over a 0w-20.

 

[gfh77665]

The OP isn’t talking the effects of weight (grade) as much as the effects of the approvals/certs.

Those approvals and certs have some things to do with CAFE, etc.

 

[dubber09]

If I were you I'd use M1 ESP 0w-30 in both cars in your sig, year around. I do understand you are trying to clean engine with VRP in your Acura at this time.

 

[dadto2]

I got about 100 quarts of Supertech Synthetic on clearance when they discontinued the 12 qt box last year. Most 5w30 and some 5w20. My beater Kia calls for 5w20 so I'm just using it up in there. Saving the 5w30 for the Sierra, per it's recommendation. When I run out of 5w20, the Kia will start getting 5w30 again.
That's a long way of saying "Price"

 

[Glenda W.]

0w30 gives you the best of all worlds. Certs, grade and W rating. Warranty worry is like worrying about getting hit by a shooting star.

 

[kschachn]

You’re conflating grade (and winter rating for that matter) with other attributes of an approval. Approvals work within grades that are allowed by the approval.

Lots of things are guaranteed by an approval besides a minimum HT/HS.

 

[cammyfive79]

You’re conflating grade (and winter rating for that matter) with other attributes of an approval. Approvals work within grades that are allowed by the approval.

Lots of things are guaranteed by an approval besides a minimum HT/HS.

That's the info I was missing. Thanks.

 

[cammyfive79]

You’re conflating grade (and winter rating for that matter) with other attributes of an approval. Approvals work within grades that are allowed by the approval.

Lots of things are guaranteed by an approval besides a minimum HT/HS.

What put this question in my head was seeing the approvals/certs of something like Castrol Edge EP (gold bottle) 0W20 vs the same series in a 5W30.

 

[martinq]

The only thing that pops up is the obvious? Ambient temperature.

 

[gfh77665]

I addressed that in post #2.

 

[f355spider]

If you live in Barrow, AK. 0w-20 will shine in extremely cold temps. In moderate TN, I would use 5w-30.

Been there, done that. Surprisingly, you can find 10w-40 in the one grocery store in town. Check out the weird pricing variations, with dino oil only 20 cents less than Platinum and synthetic blend costing more than Platinum. This was a couple years ago...prices are probably higher now. Everything is flown in...with the exception of three months in summer (ice clears) when things can be barged up, like a car. Nicest people you will ever meet.

This was in "spring" (end of April) so it was getting pretty "balmy" temperatures according to the locals.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

In reading and absorbing some knowledge around here, I've noticed a few oils have "better" approvals in the 0W20 flavor versus the same oil/series in a 5W30. By "better approvals", I'm going off of what many have mentioned be the best approvals/certs - MB 229.72, Porsche A/CXX, VW 507/09, etc. Now, again, as a lay person I don't have the breath of knowledge that some here do about what these approvals stipulate/require, but it does seem that those are often looked at as the most stringent.

So let's say your random vehicle doesn't require those approvals/certs and the manual says it is "recommended to use" a 0W20 but you don't have a warranty left so no reason not to use a XW30 or even an XW40....however the OW20 has "better approvals" than those higher grades, would the OW20 be a better oil to use for longevity/protection in that case?

I know this is probably quite vague but it is a random thought I had after reading my daily dose of BITOG threads.

Approvals aren't by themselves"better" or "worse" because the automaker periodically updates them all and the approvals themselves are basically categorized by viscosity and emissions (i.e. ULSD/ULSG). One approval may be better under certain applicants (ex extreme cold, heavy towing, high speed driving, etc).

Ex, Porsche C20 (20 grade) isn't better or worse than C30 (30 grade) or C40 (40 grade).

 

[gfh77665]

Been there, done that.

Me too. Here I am north of Point Barrow. I walked out into the Arctic Ocean, stood on a small berg. The North Pole is over my shoulder. This is exactly where the tours feed Polar Bears from armored buses. I showed that photo to some Barrow locals, they said I was flat out of my mind. Maybe they are right. LOL.

 

[Patman]

I prefer 0w20 over 5w30 in my Civic because I want the best MPG I can get, even if it’s only a few tenths more. I simply don’t need anything thicker than a 20 grade with my gentle driving in this car and the fact that it’s driven 90% at a steady highway pace and the engine spends most of the time under 2000 rpm.

 

[Best F100]

I prefer 0w20 over 5w30 in my Civic because I want the best MPG I can get, even if it’s only a few tenths more. I simply don’t need anything thicker than a 20 grade with my gentle driving in this car and the fact that it’s driven 90% at a steady highway pace and the engine spends most of the time under 2000 rpm.

Yeah Patman. Normally I would agree with you. However, in this case, in his signature, he is using 0W20 in a turbo Mazda CX-90 under warranty.

A Civic can run 200-300,000 miles on practically any API viscosity (within reason), with your eyes closed. Not necessarily the case in this application.

We don’t know how or where this vehicle is driven. Suffice to say, if he is using the HPL 0W20 premium PCO in his signature he is Golden. I wouldn’t lose any sleep here.

Full disclosure, I purchased some HPL No VII 5W20. The one with the 3.25 HTHS. To go in my ‘22 Ford Maverick Hybrid pickup - also recommended for 0W20. If some overkill protection is OK, then too much is just RIGHT. My goal is to see if there is any fuel mileage penalty. I have heard from another owner that there is not.