Warranty reasons excluded, would there be a reason to prefer a 0W20 over a 5W30?

If I remember correctly...
284F Max Oil Temp = 50 Grade
266F Max Oil Tenp = 40 Grade
248F Max Oil Temp = 30 Grade
239F Max Oil Temp = 20 Grade

We exceeded that without instant destruction but likely at the expense of increased wear rates.
 
the butt dyno feedback indicated it seemed to like the 0w20. car just felt better. was there any real difference... not likely. was it all in my head? quite possibly
It wasn't just in your head. Your vehicle preferred the 0w30 and it ran better for you.

The ones that laugh such talk-off can't seem to extract multiple sensitivities in them. They are numb to it and don't even realize it.
We all have various grades of ESP. Some know how to use it and others don't know how to latch-on to it.
 
LOL, there's overkill...then there is overkill! My Mav runs quite well with Costco 0W-20, winter, M1 ESP 0W-30 summer
 
Yeah Patman. Normally I would agree with you. However, in this case, in his signature, he is using 0W20 in a turbo Mazda CX-90 under warranty.

A Civic can run 200-300,000 miles on practically any API viscosity (within reason), with your eyes closed. 😂 Not necessarily the case in this application.

We don’t know how or where this vehicle is driven. Suffice to say, if he is using the HPL 0W20 premium PCO in his signature he is Golden. I wouldn’t lose any sleep here.

Full disclosure, I purchased some HPL No VII 5W20. The one with the 3.25 HTHS. To go in my ‘22 Ford Maverick Hybrid pickup - also recommended for 0W20. If some overkill protection is OK, then too much is just RIGHT. My goal is to see if there is any fuel mileage penalty. I have heard from another owner that there is not.
Point taken. The CX-90 has about 20K miles on it and I doubt we keep it past 1.5 - 2 more years/50K total miles; my wife would like a full EV as her next vehicle. I'll be switching it over to M1 ESP X2 0W20 in a few weeks at the next OCI since her driving is very mild and only 3 days a week to her office and we're not just going to keep the car that long to warrant the ultra-extreme-overkill protection of HPL.....will do a UOA on at that point so I can see how the engine is breaking in with HPL.

With the myriad of software updates/recalls/mild hybrid battery issues of the car, I am dead set on staying at 0W20 with it even with the manual only "recommending" it; I don't want even the slightest possibility of a "well......you're supposed to use XXXX oil....".
 
Point taken. The CX-90 has about 20K miles on it and I doubt we keep it past 1.5 - 2 more years/50K total miles; my wife would like a full EV as her next vehicle. I'll be switching it over to M1 ESP X2 0W20 in a few weeks at the next OCI since her driving is very mild and only 3 days a week to her office and we're not just going to keep the car that long to warrant the ultra-extreme-overkill protection of HPL.....will do a UOA on at that point so I can see how the engine is breaking in with HPL.

With the myriad of software updates/recalls/mild hybrid battery issues of the car, I am dead set on staying at 0W20 with it even with the manual only "recommending" it; I don't want even the slightest possibility of a "well......you're supposed to use XXXX oil....".
They'd never be able to tell even if they tested it, unless you told them.
 
I get it. I do. Maybe I'll run 10w60 in it before it's traded just because. ;)
Well 60 weight they'll be able to tell.
Most off the shelf 20 weight and 30 weight oils are nearly the same viscosity when measured at 100c.
Most 20 weighs are thicker than 9cSt when new and a lot of 30 weights are in the 10cSt range.
 
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