So what is MMO ? I have never used it, and I do not see any need for it in my personal fleet. It can go in oil, it can go in the fuel tank as well, so my thought is that at best its harmless . Why bother ?
What is Marvel Mystery Oil ?
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99% kerosene, the last 1% is mixed red dye amd dichlorobenze..
Redkine si1 is the stuff to put in your fuel.
LM MOS2 is the stuff to add to oil if you relly wnt to add something to your oil.
the marvelous mystery regarding mmo is why people believe that it works.
Redkine si1 is the stuff to put in your fuel.
LM MOS2 is the stuff to add to oil if you relly wnt to add something to your oil.
the marvelous mystery regarding mmo is why people believe that it works.
To me and with my experience, MMO works best with older carbureted engines and carb'd OPE.
Originally Posted by rubberchicken
So what is MMO ? I have never used it, and I do not see any need for it in my personal fleet. It can go in oil, it can go in the fuel tank as well, so my thought is that at best its harmless . Why bother ?
A mystery while people use it.
If you have an old engine seized from rust in the cylinder it helps to break things free.
So what is MMO ? I have never used it, and I do not see any need for it in my personal fleet. It can go in oil, it can go in the fuel tank as well, so my thought is that at best its harmless . Why bother ?
A mystery while people use it.
If you have an old engine seized from rust in the cylinder it helps to break things free.
Originally Posted by Olas
99% kerosene, the last 1% is mixed red dye amd dichlorobenze..
While a funny joke, I don't think it's 99% Kerosene.
From Wiki:
"It is composed primarily of petroleum distillates, including mineral oil (60-100%), mineral spirits {10-30%}, tricresyl phosphate (an antiwear and extreme pressure additive in lubricants, 0.1-1.0%), ortho dichlorobenzene (a softening and removing agent for carbon-based contamination on metal surfaces, 0.1-1.0%), and para dichlorobenzene (a precursor used in the production of chemically and thermally resistant polymers, <0.1%). "
99% kerosene, the last 1% is mixed red dye amd dichlorobenze..
While a funny joke, I don't think it's 99% Kerosene.
From Wiki:
"It is composed primarily of petroleum distillates, including mineral oil (60-100%), mineral spirits {10-30%}, tricresyl phosphate (an antiwear and extreme pressure additive in lubricants, 0.1-1.0%), ortho dichlorobenzene (a softening and removing agent for carbon-based contamination on metal surfaces, 0.1-1.0%), and para dichlorobenzene (a precursor used in the production of chemically and thermally resistant polymers, <0.1%). "
The art work on the can is "old timey".
Try doing a search on this board. I believe the product has been discussed.
Try doing a search on this board. I believe the product has been discussed.
It does smell good tho.....
It's mostly just pale oil with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol and chlorinated paraffins. It has a KV100 of just 2.6 cSt. I don't care for it as an oil additive.
Looks like their SDS agrees with wiki ;
https://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/media/1758/mm12r-50094-0818-sds.pdf
Originally Posted by Cujet
Originally Posted by Olas
99% kerosene, the last 1% is mixed red dye amd dichlorobenze..
While a funny joke, I don't think it's 99% Kerosene.
From Wiki:
"It is composed primarily of petroleum distillates, including mineral oil (60-100%), mineral spirits {10-30%}, tricresyl phosphate (an antiwear and extreme pressure additive in lubricants, 0.1-1.0%), ortho dichlorobenzene (a softening and removing agent for carbon-based contamination on metal surfaces, 0.1-1.0%), and para dichlorobenzene (a precursor used in the production of chemically and thermally resistant polymers, div>
https://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/media/1758/mm12r-50094-0818-sds.pdf
Originally Posted by Cujet
Originally Posted by Olas
99% kerosene, the last 1% is mixed red dye amd dichlorobenze..
While a funny joke, I don't think it's 99% Kerosene.
From Wiki:
"It is composed primarily of petroleum distillates, including mineral oil (60-100%), mineral spirits {10-30%}, tricresyl phosphate (an antiwear and extreme pressure additive in lubricants, 0.1-1.0%), ortho dichlorobenzene (a softening and removing agent for carbon-based contamination on metal surfaces, 0.1-1.0%), and para dichlorobenzene (a precursor used in the production of chemically and thermally resistant polymers, div>
MMO was used with great success back in the days of leaded gas as the chlorobenzenes helped to scavenge lead oxides that built up in the engine in much the same way that the dibromoethane that was added to leaded gas worked. . Apparently, small aircraft engines responded very well to the use of MMO in this regard. Chlorobenzenes are also a great solvent and this is why MMO helps to free rings, etc but keep in mind that when you burn these, they produce low levels of hydrochloric acid among other things. Used at normal additive levels in gas, this is no doubt so low that it causes no issues.
As mentioned, MMO is an effective lead scavenger and, while not FAA approved, is still seen in a lot of hangars especially those housing older aircraft with lower compression engines.
I use it in my older cars with steel fuel tanks. Why? Way back in the dark ages (~1982), I had my first TR6 and they, as many other contemporary cars, were known for internal fuel tank rusting. The old sage mechanic we used recommended MMO as he believed it would leave a slightly more oily film on the inside of the tank as it sloshed around. In theory, this would provide some more protection than just fuel, especially in a car that is stored off season. This made some sense to me, and the only reason I still use it.
Funny, I have been meaning to finally test this by hanging two bare steel strips in my shed; one brushed w/ gasoline and one with a mix...stay tuned.
I use it in my older cars with steel fuel tanks. Why? Way back in the dark ages (~1982), I had my first TR6 and they, as many other contemporary cars, were known for internal fuel tank rusting. The old sage mechanic we used recommended MMO as he believed it would leave a slightly more oily film on the inside of the tank as it sloshed around. In theory, this would provide some more protection than just fuel, especially in a car that is stored off season. This made some sense to me, and the only reason I still use it.
Funny, I have been meaning to finally test this by hanging two bare steel strips in my shed; one brushed w/ gasoline and one with a mix...stay tuned.
Originally Posted by wings&wheels
As mentioned, MMO is an effective lead scavenger and, while not FAA approved, is still seen in a lot of hangars especially those housing older aircraft with lower compression engines.
I use it in my older cars with steel fuel tanks. Why? Way back in the dark ages (~1982), I had my first TR6 and they, as many other contemporary cars, were known for internal fuel tank rusting. The old sage mechanic we used recommended MMO as he believed it would leave a slightly more oily film on the inside of the tank as it sloshed around. In theory, this would provide some more protection than just fuel, especially in a car that is stored off season. This made some sense to me, and the only reason I still use it.
Funny, I have been meaning to finally test this by hanging two bare steel strips in my shed; one brushed w/ gasoline and one with a mix...stay tuned.
Redline SI-1 has anticorrosion protection as well. It mentions this on Redline's website and SI-1's white paper.
As mentioned, MMO is an effective lead scavenger and, while not FAA approved, is still seen in a lot of hangars especially those housing older aircraft with lower compression engines.
I use it in my older cars with steel fuel tanks. Why? Way back in the dark ages (~1982), I had my first TR6 and they, as many other contemporary cars, were known for internal fuel tank rusting. The old sage mechanic we used recommended MMO as he believed it would leave a slightly more oily film on the inside of the tank as it sloshed around. In theory, this would provide some more protection than just fuel, especially in a car that is stored off season. This made some sense to me, and the only reason I still use it.
Funny, I have been meaning to finally test this by hanging two bare steel strips in my shed; one brushed w/ gasoline and one with a mix...stay tuned.
Redline SI-1 has anticorrosion protection as well. It mentions this on Redline's website and SI-1's white paper.
Funny you mention MMO, I just used it to fix a dryer timer, no kidding.
The thing is getting pretty old (~30+ yrs Kenmore/Whirlpool) and the timer finally got to where it wouldn't turn past where one of the switches cut off, so it would run forever.
I took the switch housing apart and everything looked OK. Put a little grease on the cams and put it back together. No go, still jams.
I tried to get the clock motor apart, but it is crimped together and there is no way to do it without destroying it. So taking a shot, I submersed the whole motor in MMO for about 15 minutes, then let it drain for an hour or so.
Put it back together, and shazam, it works now. I'm assuming the grease had dried out in the little gear housing and gummed it up, and the MMO loosened it up.
The thing is getting pretty old (~30+ yrs Kenmore/Whirlpool) and the timer finally got to where it wouldn't turn past where one of the switches cut off, so it would run forever.
I took the switch housing apart and everything looked OK. Put a little grease on the cams and put it back together. No go, still jams.
I tried to get the clock motor apart, but it is crimped together and there is no way to do it without destroying it. So taking a shot, I submersed the whole motor in MMO for about 15 minutes, then let it drain for an hour or so.
Put it back together, and shazam, it works now. I'm assuming the grease had dried out in the little gear housing and gummed it up, and the MMO loosened it up.
Jackson_Slugger
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I used/use MMO. It's not something I would put in the oil sump of a car, but I think it has limited effectiveness as a weak, slow detergent in gasoline. I think this is getting harder to justify with the consistent use of Top Tier Gasoline, but in some circumstances I think it can be an effective after using a fuel injection cleaner in dosing over maybe five or six tanks as a means to cheaply clean up whatever is left behind. Other than that, I think it is becoming increasingly obsolete, though it was more useful at one time with leaded gasoline and in carbureted units as stated above. No, it's not "snakeoil", a term I think is overused or misused here as various testimonials and tests on places like Project farm show it can be effective at removing deposits. But I think it is largely obsolete in most applications, but has some niche usage in things like small engines as a cleaner...
Stuff just works
I've used it to free up a sticky valve lifter in Ford 4.9 straight Six among other applications. Worked in 500 miles, engine stayed smooth, and no, regular motor oil
alone wouldn't have done it.
Use in engine as directed and it works. Or don't, whatever you like.....
I've used it to free up a sticky valve lifter in Ford 4.9 straight Six among other applications. Worked in 500 miles, engine stayed smooth, and no, regular motor oil
alone wouldn't have done it.
Use in engine as directed and it works. Or don't, whatever you like.....
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Ran a qrt with 0W30 once in my beloved 2002 Tacoma. It burned that qrt in 3000 miles. The only time that engine has ever burned any oil. Maybe I ran it too long.
Triple_Se7en
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Originally Posted by ARB1977
Ran a qrt with 0W30 once in my beloved 2002 Tacoma. It burned that qrt in 3000 miles. The only time that engine has ever burned any oil. Maybe I ran it too long.
It turned your 0W30 into -5W25.....lol
Ran a qrt with 0W30 once in my beloved 2002 Tacoma. It burned that qrt in 3000 miles. The only time that engine has ever burned any oil. Maybe I ran it too long.
It turned your 0W30 into -5W25.....lol
It is supposed to burn off...
Bought an original owner 2004 Toyota Solara 2.4....oil change records every 2500-3000 miles. Car ran ok when I bought it, but had just a *little valve train noise. Nothing too bad.
MMO at 15% quieted / smoothed it out after about 300 miles. This has been my experience over and over with different used vehicles
I wouldn't use it every oil change, but I don't think it hurts to use it in applications like the above, or perhaps every 50,000? or so miles.
Slight oil thinning of 5w-30 in a Toyota (especially in the winter) does not bother me a bit....
MMO at 15% quieted / smoothed it out after about 300 miles. This has been my experience over and over with different used vehicles
I wouldn't use it every oil change, but I don't think it hurts to use it in applications like the above, or perhaps every 50,000? or so miles.
Slight oil thinning of 5w-30 in a Toyota (especially in the winter) does not bother me a bit....
I'd challenge anyone to find accounts where it has harmed an engine when used in the oil as directed.
in the sixties and seventies, my grandfather got between 500000 and 1 million miles in between rebuilds. He was an owner operator. This was at a time when such longevity was uncommon. He always ran with 20% marvel Mystery Oil in the engine. Every rebuild he did he said the internals looked brand new even at those really high mileages
So I don't think it hurts at all, and I've used it for a long time. To the contrary, I think it's excellent at keeping your engine clean. A lot of people buy used cars with spotty oil change histories. I'd recommend marvel Mystery Oil to them.
in the sixties and seventies, my grandfather got between 500000 and 1 million miles in between rebuilds. He was an owner operator. This was at a time when such longevity was uncommon. He always ran with 20% marvel Mystery Oil in the engine. Every rebuild he did he said the internals looked brand new even at those really high mileages
So I don't think it hurts at all, and I've used it for a long time. To the contrary, I think it's excellent at keeping your engine clean. A lot of people buy used cars with spotty oil change histories. I'd recommend marvel Mystery Oil to them.
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