I'm trying to fix a troublesome R-134a low pressure suction port on a 2006 Honda Odyssey that has a recurring slow refrigerant leak. I have replaced the Schrader valve core twice over the past year with Robinair cores using blue Nylog, but it continues to seep. I need to try again soon, but I want to use a higher quality core other than Robinair (which appears to be made in the PRC). What brand have you found to be the most reliable against seepage?
What is a good brand of A/C Schrader Valves?
- Thread starter Nukeman7
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Last time I had AC Work done on my Accord the dude said the only one that hasn't given him problems is the OEM Honda part.
He wouldn't even consider doing the work until I brought him some I'd ordered from the dealer.
That was about 7 years ago though and the Accord is still going strong.
He wouldn't even consider doing the work until I brought him some I'd ordered from the dealer.
That was about 7 years ago though and the Accord is still going strong.
I just dip A/C Schrader's in refrigerant oil. Buy them in bulk from Ranshu which is 4 seasons most of the time.
Robinair used to sell quality tools and supplies, but when they switched their manufacturing to China, quality when down. 5 years ago my 15 year old RA vac pump was working great but I wanted a new one. When I found they were being made in China, I switched another brand. I got cores for a Honda from my Toyota dealer for a but or two.
You make a good point concerning the gauge set possibly bending the core's pin. I use a Mastercool gauge set with the retractable plungers on the couplings, but the owner of the Odyssey has used a cheap no-name short charging hose w/built in gauge to top off the R-134a refrigerant when it leaks down. After I replace the valve core again, I will inform him to only let me service the A/C system. In fact, I'll also apply a Vibra-Tite seal to visually prove the dust cap hasn't been removed.
I have not had much trouble from any brands. I wonder if the port it fits into has a scratch ?
I'll probably have to evacuate the system and take a close look at the threaded orifice for damage. The past two times, I used a Robinair valve core with the Mastercool tool that allows it to be swapped without losing more than a whiff of refrigerant.
The plastic cap is supposed to be the actual seal. Maybe replace it with a new one too. It should hold the refrigerant in.
I actually replaced it with a new Honda OEM cap during the second time the core was replaced. However, after reading many other HVAC forum postings, I am of the belief that only the brass caps with o-rings found on a home HVAC compressor can act as a gas tight seal. I purchased some brass caps supposedly for auto R-134a applications, but returned them when they did not fit. No disrespect, but I feel the plastic "dust" cap only provides slightly more gaseous leak protection than the plastic cap on a tire valve stem.
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They told us in AC class that the plastic cap with O-Ring is the seal. Sounds crazy but true. Maybe tighten your schrader a little more?
Both the current and previous Schrader valves cores were tightened as far as they would seat. I even tried backing it off a fraction to see if that would help, but to no avail, so I re-seated it fully. I am starting to think that there may be some minor corrosion/pitting in the aluminum nipples threads. Will likely evacuate the system, remove the core and inspect the threads inside the coupling this weekend.
The leak is very minor in that it causes my refrigerant sniffer to chirp, but soapy water shows no bubbles.
The leak is very minor in that it causes my refrigerant sniffer to chirp, but soapy water shows no bubbles.
Coat the gasket with blue nylog.
I used blue Nylog liberally both times.
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OEM OEM OEM!
Whenever you work on the A/C system, you need all OEM parts, and I mean every single part that goes on the AC system, down to all the rubber O-rings.
If you don’t do this, you will most likely be working on the AC system again in the near future.
Also, when replacing schrader valves, put some PAG oil on the rubber seal before you install it.
OEM is the way to go with AC systems.
Whenever you work on the A/C system, you need all OEM parts, and I mean every single part that goes on the AC system, down to all the rubber O-rings.
If you don’t do this, you will most likely be working on the AC system again in the near future.
Also, when replacing schrader valves, put some PAG oil on the rubber seal before you install it.
OEM is the way to go with AC systems.
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