What if jack stands fail?

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I have 6 ton jack stands that I keep on the lowest level (all that's needed since they're already tall) and I can't see how a jack stand can possibly fail when it's not even on a notch up, just sitting all the way down. I don't care for those dinky little jack stands that you have to pull the center up 8" just to get reasonable room under a car.
 
Possibly. I always put the wheels under there too "just in case" and I have decent jack stands.

I'm just paranoid.
 
Originally Posted By: exranger06
Am I the only one who just uses jack stands with no "back-ups" and doesn't worry or think twice about it?
Yup me too. If I'm working in limited space then I put the tires under. Heck, I sometimes didn't use jack stands, just used the jack until it started leaking lol. Now it can't hold a car up for too long.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: exranger06
Am I the only one who just uses jack stands with no "back-ups" and doesn't worry or think twice about it?
Yup me too. If I'm working in limited space then I put the tires under. Heck, I sometimes didn't use jack stands, just used the jack until it started leaking lol. Now it can't hold a car up for too long.


Good luck!
 
I prefer to double up on the jack stands, use 2 jacks, put the removed tires plus extra tires underneath, cinder blocks, wood cribing, plastic ramps, metal ramps... just in case!! I also worry a lot about pinch seams, twisted chassis, overloaded springs, and chipped undercoating. I only use stands, jacks, and ramps rated above 12k for my Honda Civic because I don't believe the ratings are accurate so I prefer to go at least 300% over actual working load.

By the time I am done it has taken me 4 hours to get the car up in the air to change the oil and rotate tires and there is no room left under the car to work safely.
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Taking the car down off of the safety stack scares me so bad sometimes I leave it up there for days until my neighbor comes over to help. I let him do it but critique him from a distance.
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IMO what to look for is keeping side loads to a minimum. I like to use two (wheeled) jack to lift both sides simulatneously, as the wheels roll to minimize sideways tension.

Otherwise, you lift a corner, put a stand under it, then lift another corner, and you're pushing or pulling that corner without even really knowing it. The corner you're lifting can go in an arc instead of straight up. I've lifted corner #2 then seen two of the four legs of my first stand up in the air.
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Then I grabbed the front bumper and slid/ pushed the car back onto all four legs of said stand. One could probably try sliding paper under the leg of your stand, if it fits, the leg isn't bearing down on the ground, or your floor isn't level.

There are also instances where I put the stands under the frame but the frame isn't parallel with the garage floor, and I'm concerned about it kicking the stands frontwards.

Long story short, I tug on the bumper in every direction before going under. I only really need to be under with stands for "serious stuff" like an engine swap or maybe rescuing a non-starting car. Otherwise I drive on ramps. Brake/suspension work I don't go under (in the crush zone) and will only (maybe) throw a stand next to the jack for backup.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
I have 6 ton jack stands that I keep on the lowest level (all that's needed since they're already tall) and I can't see how a jack stand can possibly fail when it's not even on a notch up, just sitting all the way down. I don't care for those dinky little jack stands that you have to pull the center up 8" just to get reasonable room under a car.

Ive seen pictures of some of the really cheap ones where the spot weld that held the two halves of the steel frame together popped and so the stand did the splits. Dropped the car and put the rotor into the asphalt.
I always check now and make sure the stands Im buying have the seam fully welded.
 
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
I have 6 ton jack stands that I keep on the lowest level (all that's needed since they're already tall) and I can't see how a jack stand can possibly fail when it's not even on a notch up, just sitting all the way down. I don't care for those dinky little jack stands that you have to pull the center up 8" just to get reasonable room under a car.

Ive seen pictures of some of the really cheap ones where the spot weld that held the two halves of the steel frame together popped and so the stand did the splits. Dropped the car and put the rotor into the asphalt.
I always check now and make sure the stands Im buying have the seam fully welded.
Lol oh great, mine are Harbor Freight but seem pretty nice. If they aren't fully welded then it looks like I'm gonna be grinding it down and firing up the welder.
 
Originally Posted By: andyd
If you aren't working on a concrete floor. Use a ply wood pad under the stands


Why would you put jack stands on soft plywood instead of hard concrete
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Originally Posted By: Malo83
Originally Posted By: andyd
If you aren't working on a concrete floor. Use a ply wood pad under the stands


Why would you put jack stands on soft plywood instead of hard concrete
confused.gif


If you don't have any concrete, like if you only have an asphalt driveway, you should put plywood under the jack stands to distribute the weight and keep them from sinking into the soft asphalt.
 
Originally Posted By: tom slick
By the time I am done it has taken me 4 hours to get the car up in the air to change the oil and rotate tires and there is no room left under the car to work safely.
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I don't understand how someone can do an oil/filter change in less than 15-20 minutes without ramps.

It took me more than 1 hour to do an oil change with jack, jack stands and other safety stubs. That is why I prefer to do oil change with a fluid extractor. The S2000 oil filter can be reached/changed from the top, the E430 oil filter is top mounted so it is easy, the Volvo V70 oil filter at the bottom of the engine but can be changed without raising the car.

I didn't change oil and filter for 2014 Accord yet so I don't know, but I think oil filter can only be changed from the bottom so raising the car is a must.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Harbor Freight but seem pretty nice. If they aren't fully welded then it looks like I'm gonna be grinding it down and firing up the welder.



To each their own but I wouldn't mess with the welds on mine-- it would interfere with my widow collecting millions in the wrongful death suit.

If you don't have confidence in your store bought stands, go to a different store.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
What are the chances of all four jack stands failing at the SAME time?


I'd be more worried about toppling. Jack stands look so wobbly compared to tires.
 
where do you put the jack stands? on the factory pinch weld point?? at least on mine, the cradle of the jack stand and the pinch weld point rolled lip do not mate well. the jack stand cradle seems to be supporting the metal around the pinch point rolled lip rather than the lip itself.

is it always safe to put the jack stands under any hefty bolt head of a sub-frame component?
 
Originally Posted By: exranger06
Am I the only one who just uses jack stands with no "back-ups" and doesn't worry or think twice about it?


Nope. I figure good jack stands carefully placed and loaded on a stable, solid floor are fine for a day of wrenching.

I have a set of Craftsman jack stands that came with my floor jack. They feel significantly stouter than the first cheapie set I bought from auto zone way back when I was learning about working on cars. I never usually raise them more than a notch or two, so they are pretty stable.

If tires are off I will generally shove them under the car, but only to keep them out of my way as I'm walking around the garage.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
...I didn't change oil and filter for 2014 Accord yet so I don't know, but I think oil filter can only be changed from the bottom so raising the car is a must.


Yes, you must raise it to get to the oil filter.

I'm at 40% on my factory fill at 7.5K, will change mine at 30% and put in Mobil 1 and use a Mobil 1 filter.

What are you going to use and when?
 
The car has free oil change for 2 years until April 2014, after that I will probably use any name brand synthetic 0W20 with either Wix or Fram Ultra oil filter(I already bought few of them on sale with store's reward cards).

Since the car is needed to be raised to change oil filter, I may try to do it one, if it is too unconvenience I will tell her to take the car with oil+filter to a mechanic and pay $10 labor.

The OCI is planned to be when OLM went down to 10-15%, maybe a little lower but no less than 5%.
 
Originally Posted By: Malo83
Originally Posted By: andyd
If you aren't working on a concrete floor. Use a ply wood pad under the stands


Why would you put jack stands on soft plywood instead of hard concrete
confused.gif

I'll try again, you dont need the pad on concrete. You need them on asphalt and gravel.
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