What happens when you break a pinch bolt

[Snagglefoot]

Recall all those websites where they give tips on how to remove a pinch bolt on a strut and warns you not to break it? Well today it happened. This was on a 2005 Taurus sedan. In spite of saturating the bolt with penetrating oil days ahead, giving it some heat ( with propane. I wish I had acetylene) and trying to ease it back and forth, it broke at the first thread. A chain of events started when I couldn’t fit my impact wrench to give it a few blips. I had to use a breaker bar, and know a guy should limit himself to a 1/2 inch ratchet to keep from over doing it. However, I have a new excuse to get a stubby battery impact wrench for Christmas.

This all occurred at U Wrench in Calgary, the shop I have mentioned in previous posts. Fortunately the resident free lance mechanic, Andre, was there, so I made a deal with him to drill it out. Andre is also a machinist and he did a great job. It cost me $100. Worth every penny.

Here are a few shots of my breaker bar setup, propane torch, the view of the hole the bolt broke in, the outer skin of the threads after Andre so expertly drilled it out, and a pic of Andre’s experienced hands with his tap. Andre fixed it perfectly and I installed the struts with time to spare.

Next time I might get a stubby impact gun, give it a few blips, and work it back and forth while repeatedly spraying with penetrating oil. Archie Bunker once said” Patience is a Virgin”. Enjoy.

 

[AutoMechanic]

Fortunately for me I never have broke one.

 

[Driz]

just keep in mind one thing. Often and especially when you are in the rust belt when they are old and rust to death that simply replacing the caliper with a rebuilt is often the better option. Pucks drag from rust buildup when they get old and they just don't work as well often dragging pads and warping rotors.......

 

[SwampSurvivor]

I've heard of people fighting the ball joint pinch bolts on Subarus. I just losened, anti-seized, and retorqued the ones on my Forester. If I keep this car for the long term, I'd like to be able to replace the ball joints or control arms without too much fighting.

 

[Wolf359]

That Taurus is infamous for breaking those pinch bolts. Lots of threads about that in other forums and my story about mine are probably there too. Only way around it is to get the spindle from a junk yard. They will basically break from rust, there was nothing to be done to avoid it.

 

[Number_35]

Arg, broken pinch bolt ... I had flashbacks to this ordeal:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/2009-mazda-5-trouble-removing-lower-control-arm.269171/

 

[andyd]

'94 Ford fasteners are inferior to BMW older fasteners. I replaced several bolts on the Rat with BMW hardware that came from an '82 that was rusted to pieces

 

[IndyIan]

Did you smack it with a good size hammer a few times before you tried to remove it? Enough to leave a mark on the head but not deform it enough to make getting a socket on it a problem. My buddy loves buying old farm stuff and does that on pretty much every bolt where breaking it off is a bad thing. Lighter hits if the bolt is into aluminum though! Seems to work pretty well most of the time.

 

[Chris142]

Fortunately for me I never have broke one.

X2

 

[Rand]

, I have a new excuse to get a stubby battery impact wrench for Christmas.

Now that someone resurrected this thread.. did you ever get a stubby?

They now have right angle impact wrenches as well as the normal stubby impact wrench form factor.

M12 FUEL 1/2" Right Angle Impact Wrench | Milwaukee Tool

MILWAUKEE® M12 FUEL™ 1/2" Right Angle Impact Wrench w/ Friction Ring has is the industry's most powerful right angle impact wrench. Remove stubborn bolts up to 220 ft-lbs. of nut-busting torque

www.milwaukeetool.com

 

[Snagglefoot]

Now that someone resurrected this thread.. did you ever get a stubby?

They now have right angle impact wrenches as well as the normal stubby impact wrench form factor.

M12 FUEL 1/2" Right Angle Impact Wrench | Milwaukee Tool

MILWAUKEE® M12 FUEL™ 1/2" Right Angle Impact Wrench w/ Friction Ring has is the industry's most powerful right angle impact wrench. Remove stubborn bolts up to 220 ft-lbs. of nut-busting torque

www.milwaukeetool.com

That’s an awesome looking tool. They are now at my local Home Depot. For now I have this one that will fit and do the job. Thanks for the posting.

 

[Astro14]

Fortunately for me I never have broke one.

Well…you’re young…and will plenty of opportunity in the future…

 

[The Critic]

Well…you’re young…and will plenty of opportunity in the future…

I think he may have just jinxed himself.

 

[Rand]

That’s an awesome looking tool. They are now at my local Home Depot. For now I have this one that will fit and do the job. Thanks for the posting.
View attachment 72588

I have the Milwaukee 2555-20. iirc it outputs slightly more torque with a 3ah or bigger battery.

 

[wag123]

I don't know where Ford purchases their hardwear from, but this isn't the only bolt that is subject to break when removed from their vehicles. Pretty much every bolt on a 10 year old or older Ford is subject to break when you try to remove it, rust or no rust, penetrating oil or not, heat or not, and some just break on their own (their exhaust manifold bolts are famous for this). The best way to get the broken bolts out that I have found is by using a MIG welder (drilling and using EZ Outs are anything but "easy").

 

[UG_Passat]

I've only seen pinch bolts fail when they are used repeatedly, instead of being replaced each time

 

[IndyIan]

I don't know where Ford purchases their hardwear from, but this isn't the only bolt that is subject to break when removed from their vehicles. Pretty much every bolt on a 10 year old or older Ford is subject to break when you try to remove it, rust or no rust, penetrating oil or not, heat or not, and some just break on their own (their exhaust manifold bolts are famous for this). The best way to get the broken bolts out that I have found is by using a MIG welder (drilling and using EZ Outs are anything but "easy").

I can't say I've broke any bolts in the suspension or brakes on my 2 wagons I've had, some are rusty for sure and maybe a couple years later stuff would have broke but overall I'm pretty pleased how easily they come apart. I did snap a couple bolts into the block replacing the thermostat, I was doing this under and through the intake manifold so heating and beating wasn't an option until I removed the intake manifold and got 1 of three out properly.... The 8 similar bolts holding on the intake manifold came out pretty easy after a sharp wack on a punch on each one I could reach.
Fortunately the 2 thermostat bolts broke at the head and the whole bolt was threaded so they became studs instead of bolts...

Crazy fixes that worked

Youall have any stories of going out of the box with a mechanical fix? I had a 1978 Olds Delta 88 with high mileage that started to show signs of transmission slippage out of the Turbo 350. Since this was likely a terminal issue I went and drained and filled the trans with Tractor Supply brand...

bobistheoilguy.com

I think this car sat outside for a while, maybe on grass, before I got it as it has rust on anything that wasn't covered in rust proofing goop. My first wagon had hardly any rust on stuff under the hood so everything came apart pretty easy.

 

[andyd]

I've been reducing some old Ariens, snow blowers, an old Graveley tiller with a sickle bar made when Studebaker owned it, and a Troybilt Horse. These hulks have been sitting out behind my shop for a decade. I didn't use anything but wrenches and a 2lb hammer. Every bolt I took out, I saved. Contrast this to doing a clutch job on the Rat, where I had to use a sawzall to get the transmission out.