I now use Wix because of all you people.
What filter do you use and why?
- Thread starter Filter guy
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See what we made him do??
What did I do??
BTW I now have a Hasting LF393 on the Buick
That's the "long" version for the 3387A filter.
Sidenote:
When I talked to Baldwin the other day I found out that they make a 1 micron bypass filter. hmmm wonder what the info is on it?? She mentioned something about glass beads or fiberglass... I'll have to check into it.
BTW I now have a Hasting LF393 on the Buick
Sidenote:
I use mostly NAPA/Wix since I get a good deal on them through my fleet account and they are an excellent filter for the price. I also use LuberFiner (Champ Labs) because I buy them at just over cost. Used to use Fleetgaurd but they won't give me much of deal unless I buy a pallet at a time.
This was long before I owned a digital camera so I don't have pictures, but I had Frams collapse and cause enough of a restriction when the media went were it shouldn't have to spin a bearing in the SBC in my Jeep. Although not a car, my Jeep was/is street legal and gets driven quite a bit. Take it for what it's worth.
Nebraskan – Champ labs also makes a spin-on bypass filter under several labels. Fleetgaurd makes a spin-on bypass and a spin-on combo full-flow/bypass filter. The combo filter has limited applications last time I checked. I think wix also makes a spin-on bypass filter, but if they don't wix has some really good hydraulic filters that could be retrofitted as a bypass filter I would think.
This was long before I owned a digital camera so I don't have pictures, but I had Frams collapse and cause enough of a restriction when the media went were it shouldn't have to spin a bearing in the SBC in my Jeep. Although not a car, my Jeep was/is street legal and gets driven quite a bit. Take it for what it's worth.
Nebraskan – Champ labs also makes a spin-on bypass filter under several labels. Fleetgaurd makes a spin-on bypass and a spin-on combo full-flow/bypass filter. The combo filter has limited applications last time I checked. I think wix also makes a spin-on bypass filter, but if they don't wix has some really good hydraulic filters that could be retrofitted as a bypass filter I would think.
Hmm, whatever happened to my post ?? 'twas there this morning.......
anyway I choose to use Donaldson, two vehicles use these with Donaldson's Synteq media, quite possibly the best full flow media currently marketed, and the tractor uses a cellulose Donaldson, and we pay through the nose for filters here........
anyway I choose to use Donaldson, two vehicles use these with Donaldson's Synteq media, quite possibly the best full flow media currently marketed, and the tractor uses a cellulose Donaldson, and we pay through the nose for filters here........
Wife's 2005 Honda Civic gets Napa Gold/Wix.
My 1998 Audi A4 1.8T gets Mann or Mehle OC51 (the big honking one), The last time I went to NAPA for the Audi, they tried to give me the small one, the one that was superseded by the oil sludge TSB about 5 years ago.
My 1998 Audi A4 1.8T gets Mann or Mehle OC51 (the big honking one), The last time I went to NAPA for the Audi, they tried to give me the small one, the one that was superseded by the oil sludge TSB about 5 years ago.
Fleetguard Venturi for the Super Duty. It's not cheap, but neither is the motor.
Patman
Staff member
I'm currently running a K&N oil filter on my car and on my wife's, but am switching my car over to a Wix on the next oil change, and on my wife's car on the following oil change (I still have one more K&N for her car to use up first)
I am happy with the results I've been getting with the K&Ns however am tired of them never having the filter in stock for my Corvette, so I always need to order it. And I honestly think the Wix will still give me excellent results and at a much lower price than the K&N.
I am happy with the results I've been getting with the K&Ns however am tired of them never having the filter in stock for my Corvette, so I always need to order it. And I honestly think the Wix will still give me excellent results and at a much lower price than the K&N.
I found a Baldwin B31 for a 2003 Corvette and it has the microlite filter. Odd size it was for the center thread.... 13/16" x 16 pitch it does fit a lot of Corvettes though.
WIX! they make the original "LARGE" size filter for my '85 Supra's 5MGE I6. Purolator quit making it and now spec a L10241 Tea cup filter that's for most newer yoters. Wix seems to have better overall quality/craftsmanship and the bypass in the correct location, along with a coil spring vs a leaf spring. I never hear to many people talk about the leaf spring in the Purolators... Just seems P1's are cheaper overall. and Wix gives good tech data on each filter.
on the turbo Subie,
M1.
I've used PureOne, but the gasket is so thin I had a slow weep past it, sort of misted the can, but didn't cause a drip. Not much came by, but the fact that it happened sent me running back to M1.
M1.
I've used PureOne, but the gasket is so thin I had a slow weep past it, sort of misted the can, but didn't cause a drip. Not much came by, but the fact that it happened sent me running back to M1.
Amsoil AE filters. From UOAS i have read and the filters specifications, I am convinced that they are the most filtering filter out there.
2004 Chevy V8 4.8 liter after reading here and there then here then over there and still unsure opted for A/C Delco.
Two main variables, other than component quality, appear to be flow rate through filtering medium and medium's abilty to grab unwanted particles.
Appears the A/C Delco is a happy medium between the two.
However, unless one continuously tests the filters who is to know if manufacturing changes alter the flow/filtering rates?
Kinda' hoping that the "powers that be" will want the A/C Delco label to be known as being a consistently decent filter.
However, depending upon new data/information/opinions I, the Mighty Obbop, will consider using a different brand.
Two main variables, other than component quality, appear to be flow rate through filtering medium and medium's abilty to grab unwanted particles.
Appears the A/C Delco is a happy medium between the two.
However, unless one continuously tests the filters who is to know if manufacturing changes alter the flow/filtering rates?
Kinda' hoping that the "powers that be" will want the A/C Delco label to be known as being a consistently decent filter.
However, depending upon new data/information/opinions I, the Mighty Obbop, will consider using a different brand.
I use Honda filters on my three Honda Elements. Why, I figure they are just fine for 5,000 miles, and since my neighbor works at the Honda dealer, I get them at his cost.
I have switched over to Amsoil's new EaO line of filters, due to their specs. Yes they are costly (although you can easily save around $4/filter if you sign up as a Amsoil "preferred customer"), but they also appear to be one of the best "full flow" oil filters on the market (rated for both fine filtration, and reasonably long life)!
NOTE:
In my case, I already had OilGuard bypass units on our cars, at the time Amsoil's EaO "full flow" filters came out. So I left the bypass systems on, and just "upgraded" the filtration (even more) with the better full flow filters. This combo should (at least in theory, I haven't yet verified this with oil analysis) give some of the best oil filtration that you can "easily" get in a car, with the EaO filters getting most of the 15+ micron junk, and the bypass picking up the smaller junk that remains.
And the really nice thing about such a (combo) setup, is that either filter could (in theory) handle the entire load, if that ever becomes necessary. Because if you do happen to goof, and go past the time that one of the filters plugs up, than the other filter (be it the EaO full flow, or the bypass filter) will continue filtering the oil for you. If the EaO filter plugs, it will just stop filtering, and go into bypass. But in that case, the "bypass filter" will continue to clean the oil, and things will continue to work. Conversely, if the bypass unit plugs up, it will just stop bypass flow, acting like the bypass unit was not plumbed into the system. But that still allows the EaO "full flow" filter to do its job normally. Only when both filters get plugged, would you lose oil filtration. When only one filter plugs, the oil system should just automatically "downgrade" to a single filter setup. So not only does this arrangement provide for good oil filtration when both filters are working, it also gives you built-in "redundancy" against problems when one or the other filter gets plugged for any reason!
BTW:
I wouldn't recommend OilGuard bypass units, for anyone looking for a bypass filter (for example, to combine with an EaO full flow filter). Yes, they work very well, but (as reported in the bypass forum) OilGuard has recently started "price gouging" their customers. So if you want to use a bypass unit, and you haven't already invested in a OilGuard, you would probably find one of the other bypass choices to be more cost effective...
NOTE:
In my case, I already had OilGuard bypass units on our cars, at the time Amsoil's EaO "full flow" filters came out. So I left the bypass systems on, and just "upgraded" the filtration (even more) with the better full flow filters. This combo should (at least in theory, I haven't yet verified this with oil analysis) give some of the best oil filtration that you can "easily" get in a car, with the EaO filters getting most of the 15+ micron junk, and the bypass picking up the smaller junk that remains.
And the really nice thing about such a (combo) setup, is that either filter could (in theory) handle the entire load, if that ever becomes necessary. Because if you do happen to goof, and go past the time that one of the filters plugs up, than the other filter (be it the EaO full flow, or the bypass filter) will continue filtering the oil for you. If the EaO filter plugs, it will just stop filtering, and go into bypass. But in that case, the "bypass filter" will continue to clean the oil, and things will continue to work. Conversely, if the bypass unit plugs up, it will just stop bypass flow, acting like the bypass unit was not plumbed into the system. But that still allows the EaO "full flow" filter to do its job normally. Only when both filters get plugged, would you lose oil filtration. When only one filter plugs, the oil system should just automatically "downgrade" to a single filter setup. So not only does this arrangement provide for good oil filtration when both filters are working, it also gives you built-in "redundancy" against problems when one or the other filter gets plugged for any reason!
BTW:
I wouldn't recommend OilGuard bypass units, for anyone looking for a bypass filter (for example, to combine with an EaO full flow filter). Yes, they work very well, but (as reported in the bypass forum) OilGuard has recently started "price gouging" their customers. So if you want to use a bypass unit, and you haven't already invested in a OilGuard, you would probably find one of the other bypass choices to be more cost effective...
I'b begining to wonder about this bypass stuff. I changed my MG from a two port sandwich adapter to the classic type of plumbing and changed the oil at the same time. The classic way of plumbing allows me a quick sample of the oil any time I want. It shows the oil to have turned dark in only a week.
I understand color isn't a valid way to judge oil but I expected the filter to keep it cleaner than what I'm seeing. I've also noticed the oil on the dipstick can look very good while what comes out the bypass return stream looks much worse. This is in a healthy engine with only 34K miles on it.
I understand color isn't a valid way to judge oil but I expected the filter to keep it cleaner than what I'm seeing. I've also noticed the oil on the dipstick can look very good while what comes out the bypass return stream looks much worse. This is in a healthy engine with only 34K miles on it.
I use the best I can find that is readily available, depending on vehicle application. In my case it could be oem, Motorcraft, Mobil 1, Wix or K & N
I use the cheapest filters I can find. Currently it's Purolator PP, and will be for a while, though I do have one Fram left that I'll use for an RX rinse.
Toyota currently has an OE filter on it courtesy of a free LOF by the local dealer.
Toyota currently has an OE filter on it courtesy of a free LOF by the local dealer.
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