I see that the govmint buys a lot of Fram filters and they pay more for them than Wal-Mart charges, 5-6 bucks a filter, by the dozen yet! If they bought S-T filters like I do they could cut their expenses in half. You can see where this is going...
What filter do you use and why?
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Fram for the Honda (cheapest, yes it is).
Mann for the Volvo.
Mann for the Volvo.
I run Napa Gold (Wix) filters. The reason is that they run $6 each at Napa and I don't want to pay the premium price for a Mobil 1 filter. The Napa Gold is the best I can get out here since the only place I can get filters is at Napa or Autozone. Kragen is 30 miles away and Pep Boys is about 70 miles away.
And why wouldn't the guvment support a wholesome American company that makes a superior product?
BTW, I now know where all the money saved on metal endcaps is going. They must pay their web designers a pretty penny for their site....
I like P1's and Wix, but have used a lot of ST's and find nothing wrong with them. Hang on a sec, I have to get my firesuit on now...
I like P1's and Wix, but have used a lot of ST's and find nothing wrong with them. Hang on a sec, I have to get my firesuit on now...
Purolator Premium Plus and Wix/NAPA Gold because I feel these offer an excellent combination of construction quality, flow, efficiency and price.
I use a K&N oil filter for my Mazda6. I get it for 8.50 total including shipping from AJUSA.com.
I also like it because it has a nut on top for easy removal.
I also like it because it has a nut on top for easy removal.
OEM Toyota filters (made by Denso in Thailand I think) for my Kluger/Highlander and Corolla. See no need to use any others irespective of price.
Roger
Roger
I just bought a WIX 51040 yesterday. I was very impressed by the quality and workmanship of the filter. It has the silicone ADBV and a safety bypass valve. Looking at the cutaway view on the box, they show the filter having a spring on each end of the end caps; I'm not sure what they're for, but they look impressive.
The spring on the dome end simply holds all the rest against the base plate. The spring on the thread end compresses to allow the oil to bypass the filter to assure oil flow and protect the filter element at high pressures.
All engines have a filter bypass, most like your WIX in the filter itself. GM uses one in the filter base plate. If the WIX has a bypass and other brands for your application don't, that means WIX is covering more than one application with the same number. If 2 applications have the same gasket, thread, etc., but one doesn't require a bypass, you can sell the bypass model for use where the bypass isn't needed. I though that was more common in the cheaper brands. Some of the cheaper brands also use a dome end bypass which others and I are uncomfortable with.
All engines have a filter bypass, most like your WIX in the filter itself. GM uses one in the filter base plate. If the WIX has a bypass and other brands for your application don't, that means WIX is covering more than one application with the same number. If 2 applications have the same gasket, thread, etc., but one doesn't require a bypass, you can sell the bypass model for use where the bypass isn't needed. I though that was more common in the cheaper brands. Some of the cheaper brands also use a dome end bypass which others and I are uncomfortable with.
Purolator Pure One for my 03 Ford Ranger and NAPA Gold for my wife's 03 Subaru Forester, because both are top notch filters that you can get for a reasonable price. And I always keep a small stock of each on hand and when the stock of either runs low I start looking for a sale or rebate and restock when I find a sale or rebate.
So then the spring on the threaded end doesn't compress unless the media is clogged correct?
When the oil enters through the inlet holes, how does it get passed the ADBV to get to the media?
For the old 77 chevy, I use Hastings because I bought a case of 12 on ebay. After that, will use Super Tech if available, or Wix.
For the Altima and the Liberty, I use Super Tech because of the high quality, for the price, and also because they are open late in the evening when I do the majority of my shopping. If my auto parts store was open "my hours", I would use Wix, and will use Wix if/when Walmart phases out Super Tech in favor of Fram.
For the Altima and the Liberty, I use Super Tech because of the high quality, for the price, and also because they are open late in the evening when I do the majority of my shopping. If my auto parts store was open "my hours", I would use Wix, and will use Wix if/when Walmart phases out Super Tech in favor of Fram.
Even a new filter may bypass with a heavy enough oil at higher engine speeds. The ABDV is free swing away from the baseplate when pressurized oil flows in. When the oil tries to flow back out the inlet, it pushes the ADVB against the base plate preventing flow.
That come back has zero to do with anything oil related.quote:
Originally posted by alreadygone:
So are STD's,, doesn't necessarily mean I want one!
Zero, Fram makes a decent oil filter, and despite all the hub bub about cardboard box ends, no one has ever produced an oil filter failure on a street legal car here or on any other board I have ever been to.
The big problem with Fram is not the end caps, but the lack of much between them. I don't call a filter you pay twice as much for with half the media decent. And there have been reports of failed Fram filters here.
'01 Jeep 4.0 - Pureone - FL1A oversize
'67 Galaxie 289 - Pureone / STP
'03 Expy 5.4 - Motorcraft / easy choice
'01 Lightning - K+N - higher flow seems to keep cam followers quieter. Tried M1, Motorcraft so far.
'67 Galaxie 289 - Pureone / STP
'03 Expy 5.4 - Motorcraft / easy choice
'01 Lightning - K+N - higher flow seems to keep cam followers quieter. Tried M1, Motorcraft so far.
The big question is, would you use them even if they weren't free Pete C.?
The idea of using OEM filters and oil is false, and illegal. see link -> http://www.baldwinfilter.com/inside/history.html This falls back under the federal Moss-Magnuson Warranty Act (MMWA) more about it can be found on this BITOG forum: http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=015992#000006
And, yes even I have read on these forums about the shoddy workmanship of Fram. Years ago I left the idea of using Fram, simply by feeling the heft (weight) of their filters. Light weight cannot a great filter make (just my 2 cents worth
When I lived back in Nebraska we used Hasting and Baldwin filters. WIX were also used a lot, and once in a while a STP.. just for something different or on sale. Mobil 1 is a very good filter and so are the K&N filters. But, when I can, I'm going to the parts store (found one nearby) that sells Hastings (made by Baldwin) and will put that on my Buick PA.
When I get the bypass filter installed and running, who cares. I just want one that won't come apart for a few years. Change the bypass and keep the full flow there for looks
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