What filter actually "filters" the best/most?

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We are too busy discussing metal end caps, price, how long it can go, uneven pleats, blah blag... but we are forgetting about the filtering ability of it while still being able to flow nicely.

I've been using PureOnes, but I'm not completely sold out on it now that I saw a comparison that shows that even though it filters REALLY good, Purolator Classic and Bosch Distance Plus flow more, I need flow in my SpecV because all it sees is aggressive driving. How well do Supertechs flow and actually filter? (non ecore).

Not counting Amsoil (crazy expensive and I run 6k miles MAX), which filters have shown to flow very well and still filter the most?
 
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This is exactly why I go with OEM, which admitedly is easier in my case cause I have a Lexus & Ford and their OEM products are well thought of.
 
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Bear in mind that until the filter goes into bypass, on 99.9999% of automotive oil pumps, the flow through each filter will be exactly the same, but the pressure drop will be a little higher with the Pure 1.
 
I agree with Shannow, and I'll go a bit further.

I suspect the flow capacity of about any major brand filter far exceeds the actual flow rate requirement of oil through the engine. I seriously doubt the P1 is holding back flow compared to the needs of your spec-V.
 
Ditto that:
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
...I suspect the flow capacity of about any major brand filter far exceeds the actual flow rate requirement of oil through the engine...


K&N and Mobil 1 seem to both filter and flow very well for off-the-shelfers if it still concerns you.

You could also try to find an oversize filter with the same technical specs. (bypass setting, gasket, etc.)
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
I agree with Shannow, and I'll go a bit further.

I suspect the flow capacity of about any major brand filter far exceeds the actual flow rate requirement of oil through the engine. I seriously doubt the P1 is holding back flow compared to the needs of your spec-V.


I agree completely- there are very few engines that will flow SO much oil that the difference in restriction will come into play at all. And a good way around that is to simply upsize your filter if possible. For example- on my Jeeps I use a full-size PL30001 instead of the specified PL14670. On wifey's PT, I use the model specified for a PT Turbo (PL20195) instead of the one for a normally aspirated 2.4 (PL10241). In both cases, doubling (or more than doubling) the filter surface area allows for a finer filter medium while simultaneously lowering restriction across the filter.

If you can find an up-sized filter that fits your application and also has the same ADBV and bypass PSI specs, then its the single BEST thing you can do in oil filters.

See: http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/resources/Pages/ApplicationGuide.aspx

for a good application guide that lets you pop up windows with the size, thread pitch, bypass PSI, etc. on different filters for different vehicles. Unfortunately I've never found such a guide that basically lets you say, "my car specifies filter XXXX, what other filter has the same base design and bypass rating."
 
Originally Posted By: MrWideTires
We are too busy discussing metal end caps, price, how long it can go, uneven pleats, blah blag... but we are forgetting about the filtering ability of it

No it's been discussed try a search,it's called filter efficiency,and the yellow P1 is at the top.
 
The OP might WANT a P1 or other "premium" filter, but with a max 6k mile O/FCI, he doesn't NEED any product of the sort.

P1 is an awesome product, but being at the top (being "best") must ALWAYS be taken in context. It all depends upon how you define ALL the inputs to the decision criteria.

I don't know that P1 would last as long, or perform as efficiencly, as an EaO if the OCI was 25k miles. The efficency of the P1 would likely suffer to the point of perhaps going into bypass, thereby not "filtering" at all? So it's not at the "top" any longer.

OTOH, who needs either a P1 or an EaO if your O/FCI is 5k miles? The OP says his MAX OCI is 6k miles. There is no reason to think that any filter is going to do THAT MUCH BETTER given his self-imposed limitation. Any "normal" filter will do fine.

http://www.knfilters.com/news/news.aspx?ID=157
Here's an example to prove my point, and also confound the logic.
Consider that he has three important filters: oil, air, fuel. They don't even discuss fuel, so we won't. He uses a K&N air filter (I prefer typical cellulose filters, but he likes his reusable one). He touts the logic of saved $$$ by purchasing one air filter over the 1,000,000 miles. While some of us think that those type filters are not advisable, it certainly got him to 1,000,000 miles! OTOH - he used conventional oils and "normal" filters. I recall seeing him interviewed and he was not brand loyal to oil filters overall. Again, his oil filter choice didn't seem to matter much in the 1,000,000 miles he drove. He used a "premium" air filter, but used "normal" oils and oils filters. But the engine still attained 1,000,000 miles. Now, we could ask to tear down the engine, and then make wild presumptions as to how much more or less "wear" would have occured had he chose some other product path. But who the heck cares? Seriously ... 1,000,000 miles ... does it really make a difference what filter the guy used? NO!!!!! What made his vehicle last was a consistent, determined PM plan. He took a "premium" approach to air filtration, but a "minimalist" approach to lubes. But BOTH got him to his goal. Would he have faired "better" if he had reversed the approach? "Better" lube/filter and "lesser" air filtration?

(Editorial comment: Ironic, is it not, that he sees the validity of a reusable air filter to save money, but can't grasp the fiscal savings concept of synthetic oils and bypass filtration ....?)

My Point: routine, committed maintenace is MUCH more important that the type product you choose. As long as you choose a brand and grade of product that works well in a defined maintenance plan, your vehicle will likely last longer than you care to own it.

There are two routes to equipment longevity.
1) premium products used to the full, long lifecycle
2) "normal" products used to shorter, but still viable, lifecycles

Synthetic fluids and premium filtration are a means to make the lubes last longer in service, not to make equipment last longer in it's lifespan. They are fiscal savings tools ONLY IF you understand both their benefits and limitations. Long equipment life is NOT UNIQUE to synthetics and premium filtration; that can be attained by simply using "normal" products in shorter OCIs. The only "unique" trait to premium products is that they last longer themselves.

If you want your equipment to last, you must match your product choice to the maintenance plan. It's that simple. You might feel the need to debate this concept, but how many 1,000,000 vehicles do you have in your driveway? Can you PROVE that premium products are NECESSARY to equipment lifespan?

EQUIPMENT LIFESPAN IS AFFECTED BY THE TOTAL MAINTENANCE PLAN, WHICH IS A CAREFULL (or careless) CONSCIOUS DECISION OF MATCHING ACTIONS WITH PRODUCTS.



EVERTHING must be put into context.
 
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Originally Posted By: rjacket
This is exactly why I go with OEM, which admitedly is easier in my case cause I have a Lexus & Ford and their OEM products are well thought of.

personally, i agree 95% with this....I drive Ford/Mazdas and nearly always run the motorcraft filter, the exception being I sometimes will buy a Bosch Distance Plus or M1 when on sale, but even then I always buy the direct cross of the Motorcraft....I do understand the thought process in a higher capacity filter, but I personally find it incorrect, as I do believe there is alot more thought put into a filter by the factory than a simple space issue.......I believe even the smallest of filter may indeed filter as well as a much larger capacity one..I also change the filter each time I change the oil which is somewhat against some OEM recommendations, which is where the "commonsence" factor comes into play.......I know of some ppl whom put a motorcraft FL-400s (fairly long filter) on their lawnmower engines....in which i find silly.....now back on topic, id think stick OEM, theres a reason for their rec., if price is an issue then go with a proven brand; ie P1, M1, Bosch........ Always funny to me to read.."which oil for a Toyota Rav4" ....or something like that, as if it were a car with a custom built supercharged $30k engine........get real, my vehicles all say 5w-20 on the filler cap....and guess what....I put 5w20 oil in them.......for some reason, i do not find myself more intelligent than the engineers whom design/build these engines! I have even read a post on here of a guy with a new Corvette that takes 6.5 quarts (however much), so he puts 7 quarts in it, because he thinks they (GM) assume ppl will put 7 in it.........now i agree .5 quart may not do any damage, but the thought process is absurd
 
Well, you're not more intelligent (most likely) than the engineers who designed your engine, but you're also not a cookie cutter consumer that falls into so many standard deviations from some "whatever" in a one size fits all mandate that someone else (not the engineer) has determined is the process as it is laid out. Most of what we're told to do is more from behavioral scientists than engineers. The KISS method.

That said, buy a filter based on getting your money's worth out of it. 6k, done in a timely enough manner, won't tax the holding capacity of any filter that "meets or exceeds" OEM spec's Nor will it fill your sump with enough non-filterable particles (smaller) to become a problem. You're resetting the counter to zero often enough.
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
The OP might WANT a P1 or other "premium" filter, but with a max 6k mile O/FCI, he doesn't NEED any product of the sort.

I agree,,somewhat..

whether it's a 100 miles or 10,000 miles for me filtration is it i want the best possible no matter what the interval is.
 
In reality is you if research the longest lasting engines you will fing that conventional oil and what ever filter is used by the quicklube place. The most important filter concerning engine lfe is the air filter . The ultimate factor besides the air filter and how the engine is operated in engine life is the time of operation when the engine is at stabilized operating temps.
 
Air is a fluid of sorts and when I do a crude test to check flow of an oil filter, I have not found the gold P1 to be any more restrictive than others. In fact it flows better than the M1 in all my low-tech tests. Of course, that is for a new filter with nothing but a low volume of air flowing through it. Also, the ADBV of some filters may not open as freely as others, so there are some variables. The Frams I have tried have been the most restrictive to flow using my air test.

It is not a scientific test, but it has shown me some trends between different filters.

For 6k mile oil changes, I would consider, ST, STP, Puro Classic, Motorcraft, or Wix/NG. If you want finer filtration, the P1 or Bosch would get it done. For extended oil changes, M1, K&N, RP, Amsoil, or Bosch Distance Plus would be better choices.

I would also consider the Wix/NG and P1/Bosch for moderately extended oil changes past 6k miles. JMO
 
The Extended Guard is a good filter. Expensive and mostly over built for what most would use it for, but a good filter. If I were attempting extended drains with one of the problem engines, that would probably be my filter of choice.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
The Extended Guard is a good filter. Expensive and mostly over built for what most would use it for, but a good filter. If I were attempting extended drains with one of the problem engines, that would probably be my filter of choice.


What are the problem engines? Do you mean the Toyota Sludgers and the like?
 
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