It's hard to figure out, I thought maybe the vets could help out. I have heard said that "Pennzoil has moly!" but other than that, what conventional oils haev lots of moly?
What dino oil has the most moly?
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Just out of curiousity, why is the dino/moly combination important?
You should check out the Schaeffer Oil site (http://www.schaefferoil.com - I have no financial interest, but DO like their products). They probably have a dino/moly oil. However, their 7000 series synthetics will run longer and I believe have at least 200ppm of moly. However, you will need to check with them about that. Their tech support is good and fast.
My UOA's of the 7000 showed a 90-115ppm DEPLETED moly value after 3-4K miles.
Hope this helps.
Scott
You should check out the Schaeffer Oil site (http://www.schaefferoil.com - I have no financial interest, but DO like their products). They probably have a dino/moly oil. However, their 7000 series synthetics will run longer and I believe have at least 200ppm of moly. However, you will need to check with them about that. Their tech support is good and fast.
My UOA's of the 7000 showed a 90-115ppm DEPLETED moly value after 3-4K miles.
Hope this helps.
Scott
Check out the VOA section.
Pennzoil LongLife 15w-40 (maybe the 10w-30 too).....
Dave
Dave
Many of the 5W20s (not Motorcraft), Pennzoil Long Life 15W40 (their 10W30 as well?) and Schaeffer all have ~200PPM of moly.
Schaeffer Supreme 7000 is a blend, their Micron Moly oil is 100% mineral.
--- Bror Jace
Schaeffer Supreme 7000 is a blend, their Micron Moly oil is 100% mineral.
--- Bror Jace
I had a crankcase full of Castrol GTX 10w-40 dino oil with 3,170 + miles on it, and I sent a sample to Blackstone for analysis. They said I had 136 ppm of Moly in that used oil sample. If you want that report, go to UOA section and look for "Suzuki Sidekick/Castrol GTX."
For what it's worth, I have used the "old version" Castrol GTX with no Moly, and "new version" Castrol GTX, past 3-4 years, with Moly, and I find that both old and new work for me.
Moly is only one small link in an infinitely long chain of variables that determine what makes an oil good or bad. The only thing that matters is the "big picture," or how all the variables mesh and synch together.
For what it's worth, I have used the "old version" Castrol GTX with no Moly, and "new version" Castrol GTX, past 3-4 years, with Moly, and I find that both old and new work for me.
Moly is only one small link in an infinitely long chain of variables that determine what makes an oil good or bad. The only thing that matters is the "big picture," or how all the variables mesh and synch together.
"Moly is only one small link in an infinitely long chain of variables that determine what makes an oil good or bad. The only thing that matters is the 'big picture,' or how all the variables mesh and synch together."
Mostly true, but it's a key ingredient in preventing wear and most of the better oils have a fair amount of it.
The 5W20s have a double dose ... probably for a good reason. They also have shown very good wear prevention.
Max-Life, when it first came out (loaded with moly), was putting up some exceptional UOA results and quieted down engines with bad cases of piston slap. When they removed moly from the formula wear numbers went up some and the oil failed to dampen piston slap noise.
All things being equal (but of course they almost never are), I'll take more moly.
--- Bror Jace
Mostly true, but it's a key ingredient in preventing wear and most of the better oils have a fair amount of it.
The 5W20s have a double dose ... probably for a good reason. They also have shown very good wear prevention.
Max-Life, when it first came out (loaded with moly), was putting up some exceptional UOA results and quieted down engines with bad cases of piston slap. When they removed moly from the formula wear numbers went up some and the oil failed to dampen piston slap noise.
All things being equal (but of course they almost never are), I'll take more moly.
--- Bror Jace
Somtimes, I wonder if lots of Moly is really a good thing in all cases?
I have the 3.8L V-6, so I'm not so sure that too much friction modification would be a good thing. Maybe it is if you have the Bucket style lifters, but rollers need some friction to roll.
I have to assume the oil manu. know what they are doing.
Too much Moly kinda scares me into thinking that an oil may be so friction modified that the rollers will not spin uniformly and cause uneven wear.
I have the 3.8L V-6, so I'm not so sure that too much friction modification would be a good thing. Maybe it is if you have the Bucket style lifters, but rollers need some friction to roll.
I have to assume the oil manu. know what they are doing.
Too much Moly kinda scares me into thinking that an oil may be so friction modified that the rollers will not spin uniformly and cause uneven wear.
I thought ZDDP was the main anti-wear agent and in it's reduced amounts now, esters(boron) at normal operating temperatures.quote:
Originally posted by Bror Jace:
"Moly is only one small link in an infinitely long chain of variables that determine what makes an oil good or bad. The only thing that matters is the 'big picture,' or how all the variables mesh and synch together."
Mostly true, but it's a key ingredient in preventing wear and most of the better oils have a fair amount of it.
The 5W20s have a double dose ... probably for a good reason. They also have shown very good wear prevention.
Max-Life, when it first came out (loaded with moly), was putting up some exceptional UOA results and quieted down engines with bad cases of piston slap. When they removed moly from the formula wear numbers went up some and the oil failed to dampen piston slap noise.
All things being equal (but of course they almost never are), I'll take more moly.
--- Bror Jace
I think Moly requires an extremely high temperature and much larger quantity than in most oils to function as an anti-wear agent.
Isn't it mainly there to boost TBN and friction modify in the run of the mill oils?
Under most driving conditions, Moly would never see the temps required to activate it as an anti-wear agent.
thanks for the answers guys
question:
does moly plate onto aluminum? does ZDDP for that matter?
question:
does moly plate onto aluminum? does ZDDP for that matter?
Quote:
" Isn't it mainly there to boost TBN and friction modify in the run of the mill oils?
Under most driving conditions, Moly would never see the temps required to activate it as an anti-wear agent.
Moly does not boost TBN in the formulated oil .
I have observed no real additional moly uptake vs virgin Mobil SS in my Wife's commuter which is driven very easy and cruise RPM is relatively low and never see's passing gear .In the analysis section we see much moly depletion in some engines and that might be telling us how the engine gets ran at times .
I do think that there are different moly compounds being used today in the various oils . Just never cared enough to dig in to try and find out the differences in them .
" Isn't it mainly there to boost TBN and friction modify in the run of the mill oils?
Under most driving conditions, Moly would never see the temps required to activate it as an anti-wear agent.
Moly does not boost TBN in the formulated oil .
I have observed no real additional moly uptake vs virgin Mobil SS in my Wife's commuter which is driven very easy and cruise RPM is relatively low and never see's passing gear .In the analysis section we see much moly depletion in some engines and that might be telling us how the engine gets ran at times .
I do think that there are different moly compounds being used today in the various oils . Just never cared enough to dig in to try and find out the differences in them .
I thought that was debunked here a long time ago. You don't honestly believe that? Just think about it for a bit.quote:
Originally posted by haley10:
...Too much Moly kinda scares me into thinking that an oil may be so friction modified that the rollers will not spin uniformly and cause uneven wear.
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