Yep and it's not a debate that higher hths and thicker film in fact protects better. Thinner and lower hths can get the job done I reckon but emissions nazis don't care how long your large investment lasts.
What criteria do you use when selecting a motor oil?
- Thread starter mojoe
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We all forget when 5W30 and 10W30 got their energy conserving badges back in the late 80s. Cafe isn’t something new
1. Correct specs for my application - my opinion, may or may not match what the MFG says I should use.
2. Mostly brand agnostic but will avoid UltraOnePlus, Triax, and any no name dollar tree stuff. Lesser known but solid brands or store brands are perfectly fine.
3. Whatever costs least.
2. Mostly brand agnostic but will avoid UltraOnePlus, Triax, and any no name dollar tree stuff. Lesser known but solid brands or store brands are perfectly fine.
3. Whatever costs least.
I care about ultra low pour points combined HTHS that registers near the top of the grade. Three of our vehicles are hybrids including one PHEV. The latter has been known to go WOT on a dead cold engine in subzero weather if not careful with the throttle. Normal hybrids in general spin up to >2000 RPM before starting on a dead cold engine. On the plus side the oil is getting pumped prior to statup and any load on the engine but we are talking about a fraction of a second here.
You might find some answers in these previous threads below.
In general however, the only reliable metrics are those contained in an approval or a license. Trying to decode the teal leaves in a PDS (or worse a random UOA/VOA) is not reliable since a spectrographic analysis is decomposed elements and not compounds, nor is it a comprehensive list of "what's in" the oil by any means. A license or approval is documented proof of performance.
If you're looking at boutique oils then it comes down to trust. Some are trustworthy and some are not.
Owner's manual recommendations of grade are highly impacted by outside influences. They give a minimum requirement, but by no means an optimal one. If you don't keep your vehicles long-term then they are fine. But with today's GDI engines and nearly rampant fuel dilution you can do better. Besides a relatively small improvement in fuel consumption there's nothing superior about a thinner oil. Everything is a detraction. It's not "best" for the engine.
In general however, the only reliable metrics are those contained in an approval or a license. Trying to decode the teal leaves in a PDS (or worse a random UOA/VOA) is not reliable since a spectrographic analysis is decomposed elements and not compounds, nor is it a comprehensive list of "what's in" the oil by any means. A license or approval is documented proof of performance.
If you're looking at boutique oils then it comes down to trust. Some are trustworthy and some are not.
Owner's manual recommendations of grade are highly impacted by outside influences. They give a minimum requirement, but by no means an optimal one. If you don't keep your vehicles long-term then they are fine. But with today's GDI engines and nearly rampant fuel dilution you can do better. Besides a relatively small improvement in fuel consumption there's nothing superior about a thinner oil. Everything is a detraction. It's not "best" for the engine.
Eeny, Meeny, Miny, Moe has always worked for me.
Full synthetic, test results on ones I have run, BITOG BINGO, that dang sales/rebates thread, game changing things like Valvoline Restore and Protect that clean up stuff from other full synthetics.
Full synthetic, test results on ones I have run, BITOG BINGO, that dang sales/rebates thread, game changing things like Valvoline Restore and Protect that clean up stuff from other full synthetics.
I generally use the grade recommended by the manufacturer and have never had a problem doing so, despite the widespread disdain expressed toward the 0W-20 grade.
IDK whether it matters, but I prefer a name brand to a store brand like ST or Kirkland, although both are probably fine for the mild engines most of us have on the short drains most here seem to adhere to.
If I'm going to run 8K+ drains per the IOLM, I'd prefer something with a rep beyond merely being cheaper.
You should also look at CCV/MRV and NOACK in selecting an oil and the reputable brands provide these figures.
The content of costly adds, mainly moly, should also be considered.
Your engine, your wallet, your choice.
IDK whether it matters, but I prefer a name brand to a store brand like ST or Kirkland, although both are probably fine for the mild engines most of us have on the short drains most here seem to adhere to.
If I'm going to run 8K+ drains per the IOLM, I'd prefer something with a rep beyond merely being cheaper.
You should also look at CCV/MRV and NOACK in selecting an oil and the reputable brands provide these figures.
The content of costly adds, mainly moly, should also be considered.
Your engine, your wallet, your choice.
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- Nov 23, 2020
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Castrol first choice
There’s plenty of lab reports that supertech synthetic punches well above the belt and Kirklands signature synthetic runs neck to neck with Mobil 1 in many tests.
What tests?
Give some detail.
The information that matters isn't found in a cheap VOA/UOA.
Oh yeah, if ya seen it on Youtube than it must be gospel.
There are some members here one should pay attention to.
Not too hard to identify them.
One clue is that they don't post links to videos without any valid content.
may you find peace with yourself.$$$
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