What are you working on today?

[D60]

2011 F350 6.7: hmm, well we had the EGR off and then dropped a nut in exhaust manifold (trying to weld nuts on to those ones that break). ANYWAY, yeah stupidity move for me but in the course of looking for the nut with an inspection camera, found this mystery ring at a valve.

Absolutely no idea what this is. Doesn't look like anything that fell off a part or a tool. Amazingly my buddy somehow got a flexible magnet down there with the inspection camera, and almost had it. So, despite being so shiny, it's ferrous as we saw the magnet pick it up.

Bottom line, we still haven't located the nut but the mystery ring is....mysterious. 99.999% chance we're pulling the turbo and exhaust manifold now. Only question is if we wanna pull the cab to do it.

 

[D60]

2025 Gladiator: installed Redarc TBC. Opted to put it above and right of the 12V power port -- idea stolen from the interwebs.

Apparently in '24 Jeep changed the dash to have one long grab handle (my '19 JL is different -- and easier). In order to remove the lower center stack you gotta get to ONE screw so you gotta pull the "handle" away:

Bench surgery. Nothing like operating on a vehicle with 2400 miles:

Fin:

2019 Ram 1500 5.7 e-torque: replaced serp, wp stretch belt and primary tensioner. Easy job from underneath

Used all OEM goodness. The OEM tensioner appears to be INA. Also note the fastener for idler retention has changed from 2019:

Finally, 2015 Tundra oil change. Continuing the mission of ridding the world of the plastic filter housings

 

[D60]

I was working on grocery shopping, but outside the store was an elderly couple with a shiny Denali 1/2 ton and 6.2 badging.

I struck up a conversation with the man and he said it's a '24. He hasn't had any problems but it does use oil. He said the dealer "tested it" and declared it ok (shocking, I know) and switched his oil to 0W40. He said the warranty was extended to 150k freedom? I didn't realize they were going that far out.

He said he wants to get one for his wife but is going to wait until next year for the new engine platform. It seemed as though the idea of switching brands never occurred to him, although I didn't push it. I guess GM is learning they can build junk and we'll just take it....

 

[BrianF]

So the WL Grand Cherokee was in and out of the shop Monday. It had a host of stored codes related to brake pressure, some implausible data codes etc. The tech cleared everything and its back running like a top. So a lesson for people with these vehicles, be careful servicing the brakes. Next time, I'll purely gravity bleed, not depress the calipers or brake pedal.

 

[clinebarger]

Progress on the L96....

 

[meep]

Progress on the L96....

I’ve not been in the pan of anything larger than a SBC or Chrysler 3.8. Oh and Toyota straight 6. The oil pickup tube on that this is massive. Thats a lot of GPM!

 

[berniedd]

Added more negative camber to the 1998 CRV rear. I've had a camber adjustment kit in there, and a year ago I thought I had the 1 degree negative camber down pat (eyeball estimate). Apparently not enough, as the rear tires now show more outside wear than the inner shoulders.

 

[clinebarger]

2001 Chevy Tahoe 5.3L/4L60.....Spark Plugs & Wires

2004 Chevy Silverado 4.8L/4L60.....Spark Plugs & Wires (Same truck from early in the week)

2007 Chevy Suburban 5.3L/4L60.....Reprogram BCM with SPS3....Shop I do work for swapped in a used BCM to correct a door lock issue & locked the radio (VIN mismatch)

Bench Programmed 3 6L80/6L90 TECHM's with SPS3, Then modified the TCC tables with HP-Tuners for a transmission shop.

Bench tuned a ECM from a 2017 Silverado with HP-Tuners....Turned of the anti theft for a engine swap.

Bench tuned a PCM from a 2003 Tahoe with HP-Tuners....Electric Cooling Fan Segment swap.

The L96 is ready the swing back in the 2012 2500HD, Same Delco plugs & wires I used in the other 2 trucks, I use C6 LS3 plug wires because they just look better/more tidy.

 

[BrianF]

No pics but did some work on the loaner gas powered trash pump. Of course, something broke. The rotary kill switch had broken off, so finally got time to wire in a toggle. Had to add a longer ground wire and eyelet as well. I zipped it all on, pulled the plug and it works. Now she can go home and out of the shop.

 

[D60]

2017 MINI Clubman: infamous "secure vehicle from rolling" error even in Park.

On the shoulders of giants, I watched a few vids, ordered the offending spring on Amazon ($9 for a 2-pack) and got it done.

You've gotta tear out the center console and then the shifter assy has to be 100% broken down. I got the shifter on the bench and it's much easier.

During:

After:

Spring:

One thing everyone glosses over is pressing the brass bushing out of the flimsy plastic arm. I finally used my Bridgeport as a press and it worked great:

 

[nthach]

Finished the radio on the F-350 last week. A friend had me stop by for emotional support while she attempted replacing the valve cover gasket on a 2014 Accord Sport, K24. She did get parts off Amazon, I said this won’t fly with me. Went to O’Reilly and got a Fel-Pro kit(yea I know). She did most of the job, I did point out a few things(RTV on the T-joints and the sharp corners) and checked the valve adjustment. Stabbed the intakes with a .21-.23mm and exhaust with a .25-.28mm feeler. They’re within spec, which is odd from my experience with Hondas(Fit and a Civic).

 

[wtd]

Put new window guides on the passenger side window of one of our 92 Cavaliers. This has manual windows and the window was going down cockeyed and trying to pull the rear track out of the side of the window frame.

Pulled the two-piece door panel off and got the window removed from the door. Two out of the three guides were broken off. These are just plastic pieces that hinge over the glass and has a post that clicks into a hole in the window and into the other side of the guide. The front guide and the lower rear guide were missing and inside the bottom of the door. These are Dorman Help pieces and are about $7.50 a piece.

It's not a horrible job but does take a couple of hours. I did the driver's side years ago. I also did the passenger window on the other Cavalier a couple of years ago when I put a new power window motor in.

At least the window works correctly now.

 

[D60]

Put new window guides on the passenger side window of one of our 92 Cavaliers. This has manual windows and the window was going down cockeyed and trying to pull the rear track out of the side of the window frame.

Pulled the two-piece door panel off and got the window removed from the door. Two out of the three guides were broken off. These are just plastic pieces that hinge over the glass and has a post that clicks into a hole in the window and into the other side of the guide. The front guide and the lower rear guide were missing and inside the bottom of the door. These are Dorman Help pieces and are about $7.50 a piece.

It's not a horrible job but does take a couple of hours. I did the driver's side years ago. I also did the passenger window on the other Cavalier a couple of years ago when I put a new power window motor in.

At least the window works correctly now.

You're so confused. Rather than keeping a '92 on the road you're supposed to buy a new vehicle with GDI to coke up the valves, low tension rings to burn oil and a CVT that will die prematurely. Bonus points for 75 modules that flake out. This is much greener than keeping an existing vehicle running. Geesh!

 

[GSCJR]

2014 Forester, 148K.

Replaced the clicking L/F CV axle with a Trakmotive HD Xtreme.

Axle didn’t want to come out of the splines but it wasn’t very rusty. My air hammer got a workout.

View attachment 334271

View attachment 334272

View attachment 334273

Are these Trakmotive axles decent? I think my RF is causing an intermittent vibration at highway speeds. It was only a matter of time that the axle began to show signs of degradation, after that whole pinch bolt snapping fiasco thanks to my apprentice.

 

[The Critic]

Are these Trakmotive axles decent? I think my RF is causing an intermittent vibration at highway speeds. It was only a matter of time that the axle began to show signs of degradation, after that whole pinch bolt snapping fiasco thanks to my apprentice.

First time using them on a Subaru. The driver has reported no issues after 500 miles...

 

[GSCJR]

I spent a Sunday afternoon I'll never get back putting a blend door actuator in a 2011 Avalon
Never again, I'm still licking my wounds

Of course, the 1 of 4 that went bad was the mode door, so it was stuck on defrost/feet
Tolerable in the winter, not very comfortable in the summer
Toyota wants $400+ for the part, they'll sell you an assembly with both actuators and the drive gears pre attached
By the book it's a 6 hour job, and the dash is supposed to come out
Once you pry the old one out, it's not so bad, shave down the center bore to ease installation, the major pain is getting all 3 linkages timed right
Space is tight, and the service manual isn't very clear
It assumes the HVAC case is removed from the car and on the bench
The trim work was fairly light, just 10mm and Philips
View attachment 336084
View attachment 336085
Shimmying this contraption in and out while timing it right was the nightmare
View attachment 336086
You can pop it apart and put the one $50 actuator in, fiddly but doable
It's a GPD 1712382
View attachment 336087
Getting all those tracks to line up with the lugs on the link arms while getting the whole assembly back in there, plus getting the screws in was simply hateful
I got pretty good at it after the ~fifth time to get the timing right
View attachment 336088
Top screw is best accessed through the recirc door
Small ratcheting bit drivers and a flight of extensions will be your friends
View attachment 336089
After a half dozen or so tries, I got it all working as it should
Used Techstream to run the servomotor calibration, it passed easily
This cured the blinking defrost light on startup

You gotta put a fresh cabin filter
View attachment 336090
It'll be back, they always come back
View attachment 336091
Going rate for this job is $1100-$1500 in my area, 6 hours of labor @ ~$200 per hour, and a heavily marked up $400 part

A ~$60 actuator, $5 CAF, and ~5 hours of my Sunday add up to I'm not sure yet
$300 all in

Great persistence! My back is sore just looking at these photos. I won't touch that unless I'm getting double what you're asking.

 

[wtd]

You're so confused. Rather than keeping a '92 on the road you're supposed to buy a new vehicle with GDI to coke up the valves, low tension rings to burn oil and a CVT that will die prematurely. Bonus points for 75 modules that flake out. This is much greener than keeping an existing vehicle running. Geesh!

I know right, what am I thinking? LOL. It's a cheap beater car that is pretty cheap to work on and still pretty reliable. I've had it for 20 years now so I might as well drive it into the ground at this point and keep the miles off of my other vehicles.

With the junk that they are selling these days and the price of them, I hope to never buy a new or newer car again.

 

[Kennedy01]

Last few weeks, automotive

2002 Isuzu Trooper
Tag teamed an engine replacement, new radiator, hoses, timing belt, water pump, thermostat, spark plugs

2005 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD
Air filter, fuel filter, oil change, both front wheel hubs, front brake pads and rotors, left front CV axle

2005 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 V8
Replaced rusted through oil pan

2014 RAM 1500 3.6 V6
Valve cover gaskets, PCV valve, ignition coils, spark plugs, upper and lower plenum seals, oil change

2002 Pontiac Grand Prix 3800 V6
Valve cover gaskets, serpentine belt, alternator, oil change

 

[clinebarger]

Started on a clutch job on a '93 Nissan D21 Hardbody 2.4L 4X4, This truck is super clean which is the only reason I took it on.

The Torsion Bar crossmember has to come out for those not familiar with these. I pulled the seat to get the carpet out of the way so the shifter boot would come out. Marked shafts & torsion bars/keys, Bagged & labeled all hardware.

Haven't seen this many washers & lock washers in a long time

Flywheel is at the machine shop to get surfaced.

 

[Revving2Redline]

Doing the CRC IVD GDi cleaning through the throttle body. After will use majority of can of Gumout MultiTune (PEA) in the fuel system along with Amoco 89 e5 TT+. Remaining four ounces will go in the crankcase Monday prior to the easy all highway drive for service of Mobil 1 oil filter and the new Mobil 1 Advanced Clean 5W-30 and another Redline Non Slip Cvt Fluid Service with new washers and then to have tyres rotation and balancing.
Plan is to run for 20000+ miles on this new oil. Certainly not all at once, but this filter will be on for the entire time and will siphon out on or around the time the service light indicates so or close to that.
My hope by the time to change the filter and do a traditional change is to start having the Cusco Braces/Tanabe to stiff up the ride. I wanted a sway bar but the car wash does amazing underneath cleaning and would wash away the grease and the squeek would be annoying.

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