What are you working on today?

My "serpentine belt and tensioner" job turned into a $550 belts/water pump/radiator hoses job on my BMW diesel. I am glad to report that it's put back together and runs fine.

One thing I didn't do was for the air conditioner belt, which is a "stretch belt." This is something new to me. I didn't buy the tool and now I appear to be looking like a dummy. Anyone have any tricks to getting a stretch belt on when there's no tensioner or any way to adjust any of the pulleys? This is the special tool that was recommended: https://www.ebay.com/itm/406067662866
If its a BMW diesel you will not easily rotate the engine by hand to use a normal stretch belt installer tool. That tool is a 2 piece tool that allows installing the belt without rotating the engine.
https://www.freedomracing.com/11033...-FiLUE6Yd618o9j49AIwGd9NJY_IHq7B9AhuYgOoZjZN8
 
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Lord in heaven, I was trying to get out of buying a $25 tool, this one is $130! :oops:
Seriously 100-130 bucks for the tool is a great price the OE tool is closer to $350. The joy of owning modern cars not just Euro ones either is you get to buy very expensive parts and lots of tools you may only use once or twice. LOL
 
The gearbox on my 50 year old Troy-Bilt roto tiller started pouring gear oil out of the input shaft seal. Luckily part is still available...made in Taiwan lol.
 
Seriously 100-130 bucks for the tool is a great price the OE tool is closer to $350. The joy of owning modern cars not just Euro ones either is you get to buy very expensive parts and lots of tools you may only use once or twice. LOL
I found a couple of BMW specialty belt tools and most seem to cover two or three model years LOL -- at least according to the text descriptions of the tools.

Looks like OEM is Baum? That's like Cartier ‐‐ ya know it ain't gonna be cheap based on the name alone. If you have to ask, you can't afford it ;)
 
I spent a Sunday afternoon I'll never get back putting a blend door actuator in a 2011 Avalon 🤮
Never again, I'm still licking my wounds

Of course, the 1 of 4 that went bad was the mode door, so it was stuck on defrost/feet
Tolerable in the winter, not very comfortable in the summer
Toyota wants $400+ for the part, they'll sell you an assembly with both actuators and the drive gears pre attached
By the book it's a 6 hour job, and the dash is supposed to come out
Once you pry the old one out, it's not so bad, shave down the center bore to ease installation, the major pain is getting all 3 linkages timed right
Space is tight, and the service manual isn't very clear
It assumes the HVAC case is removed from the car and on the bench
The trim work was fairly light, just 10mm and Philips
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Shimmying this contraption in and out while timing it right was the nightmare
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You can pop it apart and put the one $50 actuator in, fiddly but doable
It's a GPD 1712382
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Getting all those tracks to line up with the lugs on the link arms while getting the whole assembly back in there, plus getting the screws in was simply hateful
I got pretty good at it after the ~fifth time to get the timing right
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Top screw is best accessed through the recirc door
Small ratcheting bit drivers and a flight of extensions will be your friends
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After a half dozen or so tries, I got it all working as it should
Used Techstream to run the servomotor calibration, it passed easily
This cured the blinking defrost light on startup

You gotta put a fresh cabin filter 🤔
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It'll be back, they always come back
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Going rate for this job is $1100-$1500 in my area, 6 hours of labor @ ~$200 per hour, and a heavily marked up $400 part

A ~$60 actuator, $5 CAF, and ~5 hours of my Sunday add up to I'm not sure yet
$300 all in 🤷‍♂️
 
Tried to fix my wifes Lenovo laptop hinge.. common I guess with these. Mine is ok though. Loosened the nut and used a little lube, not sure why so tight. Gorilla glued it back together, hopefully it’ll stick and stay.
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I started using the two part glue for plastic body parts like body shops use. You can get it in blister packs at autoparts stores. It'll glue just about any plastic, even bottle plastic. Hasn't failed me yet.
 
At various points within the last 7 days:

14 ES300h, 130K: Oil Change and Tire Rotation
19 CR-V 1.5T, 67K: Oil Change, Tire Rotation, Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors, Bleed Front Calipers
24 Grand Highlander 2.4T, 25K: Oil Change and Tire Rotation
 
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I started using the two part glue for plastic body parts like body shops use. You can get it in blister packs at autoparts stores. It'll glue just about any plastic, even bottle plastic. Hasn't failed me yet.
I have a bad habit of using Gorilla glue for everything.. couldn't even say how much $$$ I've saved over the years. Checked it this morning and it's holding tight, actually tighter than the other other side.
 
For something like a decade I've wanted to modify my old steel ramps. As I see it they're most likely to just "unbend" under heavy vehicles as the long inclined leg effectively provides a lever arm, thus "needs more triangulation."

This was totally off the wall but I grabbed whatever flat bar I had, cut to length and dimpled some holes.
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Seeing as each dimpled hole adds 5hp, I've increased the hp of each ramp by 50!! Almost as good as a K&N!!!
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I did one ramp "inside" and one "outside" so they still stack.....mostly, kinda
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I had the front of a '98 K2500 ECLB on them last night with a very large in-bed camper, and I'm not dead. Not sure that proves anything (shrug). And yes, I'll still take these all day over the plastic death traps some foolishly use -- sorry not sorry
 
For something like a decade I've wanted to modify my old steel ramps. As I see it they're most likely to just "unbend" under heavy vehicles as the long inclined leg effectively provides a lever arm, thus "needs more triangulation."

This was totally off the wall but I grabbed whatever flat bar I had, cut to length and dimpled some holes. View attachment 336192

Seeing as each dimpled hole adds 5hp, I've increased the hp of each ramp by 50!! Almost as good as a K&N!!!
View attachment 336193
I did one ramp "inside" and one "outside" so they still stack.....mostly, kindaView attachment 336194

I had the front of a '98 K2500 ECLB on them last night with a very large in-bed camper, and I'm not dead. Not sure that proves anything (shrug). And yes, I'll still take these all day over the plastic death traps some foolishly use -- sorry not sorry
I don't know why the steel ramp manufacturers went away from adding the triangle? I have ones like these, and just assumed all steel ramps were still made this way...
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I had a set of red ones when I was a kid back in the '70s I guess. They came with straps on the side that were welded on. They were really too steep though and I prefer the modern plastic ones I have now. Much longer ramp section.
 
Pulled the balancer, easy peasy. The only broken bolts I see are the two for the thermostat. I’ll heat and spray those next, small pipe wrench should grab them. Need to pull the plugs and dump in ATF, also pull the injectors and soak in Berrymans. Truck might have a title issue the parents never noticed. DMV put the lien from the previous owner on their title. That was back in 92 and its been off the road since 02. Should be able to title as a antique in KS if all fails.
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2004 Chevy C1500 4.8L/4L60E, Complaint of a check engine light & running rough.
*Steady misfire on #7, Pulled the plug & it was wet with fuel. Plug & wires look recently installed, But the plugs (AC-Delco) looked weird probably fakes from ebay/amazon. Threw in a used/good plug & wire.....No more misfire. Sold new plugs & wires just wanted to prove out the diag.

*Bank 1 Sensor 1 heater circuit DTC, Load tested the heater circuits & determined the O2 sensor to be faulty, Also pretty new looking....No brand marking, Probably a amazon special. Bank 2 Sensor 1 was dead in the water at 447 mV, Looks original. Installed 2 Denso sensors.

*EVAP vent solenoid circuit DTC, Solenoid itself is open. New solenoid installed & passed a leak test.


Back to the L96 engine job on the 2012 2500HD, Engine showed up to late yesterday to do any checks.

Less than 20% leakdown on all 8 cylinders, I pulled all the rockers to check for wear on the pushrod cups....None found.

See no reason to pull the heads, It's getting all new gaskets & seals, ARP exhaust manifold bolts, Timing chain, Timing chain tensioner, High volume oil pump & Pick up O-ring.

Have to extract a couple broke manifold bolts, Wreaking yard said this engine has right at 100,000 miles....It's believable.

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