What are you working on today?

[HEAVY SIGH] ....this Vanagon with an EJ25 swap. The owner is one of the very few clients I've wanted to fire. He's needy, emotionally unstable, wants me to be his counselor and also wants to tell me how to do my job. The van is totally disgusting hippie nastiness and filled with self-help books (hot tip: THEY'RE NOT WORKING!!)
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On the bright side he told the AMAM antifreeze is "thinner" and doesn't cool as well as the good ol' green. So yeah, learned something there.

And yeah, of course the bike rack is locked on so I get to work around that :rolleyes:
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OTOH it's not lost on me that maybe *I'm* the emotionally unstable one since the whole situation annoys me so.....gee, maybe I'll flip through one of those books. I wonder if there's a title How to Deal with Stupid, Needy Hippies ??
 
Spent some time on the old Polaris Magnum. Made a mess with a buddies little stick welder. Tacked on an old washer to retain a bolt which allowed the ball joint to be pulled out with the removal tool. Also picked up a SKF speedi sleeve for the hub seal. I'll install the ball joint and sleeve tomorrow.

I have CV shaft seals on order. They are SKF and coming out of the states as nothing available locally. Once they are in, I can put this whole mess to bed.

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All the idlers on the FEAD like to get noisy. If you're lucky enough to still have the OEM steel pulleys, keep them and press in new bearings. Everything you buy now is plastic, esp the tensioner idler -- even from Ford (cost cutting).

The Dorman pan for the 4R70 is a hidden gem and of course you get a drain plug.

The factory parks the wiper arms too low for defrost to be effective. You can remove the key and reposition as you want. The key was just for consistency during assembly on the line.
Best I can tell it has original idlers, and everything is quiet. I'll definitely note keeping the oem units and replace bearings if need be. I'm going to go the dipstick tube transmission fluid change for now, the fluid actually looks quite good and the transmission shifts smoothly. I'd still like to get some fresh in there. If I keep it long term, might snag one of those dorman pans when I change the filter.

I've driven the truck to work and back the past two days, it hits the road incredibly well for a Ford with 300k miles. It looks rough, but mechanically it seems to have been well taken care of. Hadn't really paid attention to the wiper rest, although I haven't had to use defrost yet. I'll note that as well. Appreciate the tips!
 
[HEAVY SIGH] ....this Vanagon with an EJ25 swap. The owner is one of the very few clients I've wanted to fire. He's needy, emotionally unstable, wants me to be his counselor and also wants to tell me how to do my job. The van is totally disgusting hippie nastiness and filled with self-help books (hot tip: THEY'RE NOT WORKING!!)
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On the bright side he told the AMAM antifreeze is "thinner" and doesn't cool as well as the good ol' green. So yeah, learned something there.

And yeah, of course the bike rack is locked on so I get to work around that :rolleyes:
View attachment 307378
OTOH it's not lost on me that maybe *I'm* the emotionally unstable one since the whole situation annoys me so.....gee, maybe I'll flip through one of those books. I wonder if there's a title How to Deal with Stupid, Needy Hippies ??
Yeah but, thats an ej25 in a vanagon!!!
 
Doing a 6L80E rebuild on a '18 GMC Sierra with a Gen V 4.3L right now....Converter failure of coarse.

Yesterday......
*2005 Hummer H2, Vapor Canister had ruptured, Replaced the canister & vent valve.....Canister is in a bad/difficult spot!
*2007 Ford F150, 2V 4.6L/4R70.....P0401 low EGR flow, OE valve was on backorder so I installed a Autozone/Duralast valve,
First one was bad right of the box....Hung open after I commanded it on. The second one functions as intended for now.
 
Installed the ball joint and speedi sleeve this am. Froze the joint , heated the recess and it tapped right in there.

I must say, that SKF speedi sleeve was absolutely simple to install. Not only was it 30 bucks cheaper than the genuine polaris sleeve, it made the repair process exponentially easier. The original wear sleeve has to be chiseled off and you risk damaging the coil underneath. I spent less than 10 minutes start to finish.

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100 miles R/T to replace a parking brake cable on a customer's Z997R zero turn. The guy lives 10 miles from one of our other locations, but refuses to give them any business due to some disagreement in the past. Instead, he calls our location specifically and has us do all repairs on-site....
 
Just got done working on a neighbor's 2005 Chrysler 300. My fiancé had asked me if I would go hook up my scanner to her car since it would not start. Scanned it for codes and nothing or any interest and most were stored codes.

I turned the key and there was no resistance at all throughout the range and the dash lights did not come on until the key was turned all the way to the right. There also was no spring back in the start position and the car would not crank. I figured something was broken in the switch and that turned out to be the case. A metal piece that goes from the key tumbler to the switch had broken at the end and that piece was stuck in the ignition switch.

I took her to the parts store in two different towns to get both of the parts we needed since she was home alone. The piece that actually broke was $70 and the switch was $55. I could not believe that what was essentially a metal rod with some plastic in it was that expensive.

Luckily the switch assembly was in the dash and not in the steering wheel which made the repair a lot easier. I didn't bring any of my tools with me so I had to make do with the little bit of tools her late husband had which was not much.
 
This isn’t what I am working on today but it was 2 weeks ago, it took a while to upload the photos and gather my thoughts on the job. Some interesting things hopefully others can learn from this.

My AMX started running rich towards the end of the summer. I intended to do a carb kit at some point so this was extra incentive. I also wanted to install a heat insulator gasket as I have always had a hot start issue from percolated fuel. Job went fine, these Edelbrock AVS carbs are really simple to work on and I love how they are just as configurable as a Holley, everything, pump shooters, pump stroke, jets, rods, power valve springs etc. I really like these carbs. Found two major issues.

1 – Passenger side float was full of gas. It can happen with brass floats and this was no exception. I installed two new floats, set the drop and float level to spec. All good. The one on the left is heavy with fuel.

2 – This was a weird one but I checked online afterwards and I was not alone. The small plug on the secondary booster cluster had fallen out (see pictures). I discovered it in the fuel bowl and, of course, found the hole in the cluster. It just presses in but this one worked itself out. I pressed it back in and used a small dab orange Loctite around the rim to seal it in place, same as the other one which has not fallen out. Orange Loctite is fuel resistant so it should be fine. This missing plug would only be noticeable at WOT / secondary opening and I never felt it (limited secondary usage, I live in a congested city… so not much WOT action) but it would have seriously impaired the mixture in that venturi.

Post checkout, car is running great again. Smooth, great throttle response, decent idle etc. Biggest bonus, so far, is that heat insulator gasket is working great, the couple stops I made (burgers and gas) no percolation. I’ll see next summer in the heat how it is. I have always had success with these insulator gaskets on my Holley cars too. My Q-Jet cars are pretty good from the factory against percolation.

Always check hood clearance when you increase the height of the carb / air cleaner. The insulator gasket is .3” high… the regular gasket was .060”… I have seen lots of hood damage from an oopsie here.

Anyway, here are a few pictures of the day.

Parts used:

Edelbrock Master Kit 1477
Edelbrock Float Kit 1469
Edelbrock Insulator Gasket 9266

Next up is some power valve tuning. I have the “orange” springs in (5”Hg) and I want to go to the “pink” (7"Hg) spring as I have a very slight mid-throttle sag when the engine is cold... pretty sure it isn’t the pump shot but it feels like the power valve is not lifting fast enough for the mid-throttle enrichment. I’ll see. It is easy to change these springs.

Desperately trying to find someone local with a synchrograph because I want to get into the ignition curve as well. I can do it with my dial back timing light and I pretty much know I want the lightest springs to get the advance in by 3000 RPM but it is tedious with the light, much easier with the synchrograph and the distributor pulled.

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This week at work I've primarily been working on pressing studs into our modified unit bearings. Easy work with the Baleigh electric/hydraulic press we use. Monday and Tuesday I had several orders of link bars to cut, face to length, skim and chamfer. Today I'm off, just got home from having an endoscopy. I might piddle with the Sonoma a little this afternoon.
 
This week at work I've primarily been working on pressing studs into our modified unit bearings. Easy work with the Baleigh electric/hydraulic press we use. Monday and Tuesday I had several orders of link bars to cut, face to length, skim and chamfer. Today I'm off, just got home from having an endoscopy. I might piddle with the Sonoma a little this afternoon.
Yesterday I confirmed the fuel pump is bad on the Sonoma. Then I drove around the property picking up fallen limbs, then burned some of the brush. Today I'm going to work on replacing the fuel pump and getting the Sonoma where I can at least move it from outside the shop.
 
Wife had me committed to a Halloween Party this afternoon so not enough time to get my pistons in the block. I don't rush. So I started to prep the backside on the Parklane's hood. Cleaned off 58 years of dirt and soot. Next deal with surface rust, sand, primer, and paint.
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Well no Cobra work today. The mommy missile needed a new left front control arm. It made a nice groan going up the curb in the driveway. The bushings were nicely worn out. I had a heck of a time separating the ball joint but final got it. Probably do the RF tomorrow or next weekend.

Now it's time for a smoked old fashion and a Jay's game 7 win!

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Took it easy this morning and did a big Surplus Center order for my equipment trailer. I’m building a gas power unit to run the hydraulic ramps and eventually a winch.

Went and bought a 1949 Farmall Super A from a family member this afternoon. It had been stored inside an enclosed trailer for several years so I took the skidsteer along to recover it and load on the utility trailer. Gotta get a couple front tires, battery and clean the fuel system tomorrow and I think it’ll run. I grew up around this tractor and it’s one of the first things I “drove” as a toddler. I have no real use for it but I want it to stay in the family so it’s been added to my collection. I’ll care for it and hope there’ll be someone else to appreciate it when that time comes.

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