'11 Duramax: new Bilsteins all around, new OEM thermostats (P0128 and a max water temp of 157), new OEM block heater and cord
This poor truck turned into a mini-saga. First, they asked me to fix damage to the block heater cord. I had actually ordered a new aftermarket cord, but it came a day late. So, wanting to just get 'er done, I repaired the cord. I plugged it in in my shop and it made the standard popping and growling noises, so I declared it good.
In hindsight, repairing a block heater cord probably wasn't great from a liability standpoint, but I was working with what I had available because parts were late.
They got home and told me it was "popping the breaker." In pulling more information out of them, I
think they meant it was tripping a GFCI, which is different but most people don't understand.
Either was I was mortified because I don't like comebacks. I apologized profusely and said I'd make it right. They said no problem, and order some new shocks while you're at it.
I ordered an OEM cord on ebay (note: it's kinda hard to fake these because OEM gets heat shield tape while aftermarket is just a cord) with the CORRECT part # but received a cord with a slightly narrower plug -- something for a different GM application.
So I called my dealer, gave 'em the last eight and just bent over. $117 later an OEM cord arrived the next day.
In the meantime I had run some basic checks on the cord I repaired. There were no internal shorts, and resistance on each line was zero ohms.
Nonetheless, I plugged in the new OEM cord, chased down a (two, actually) GFCI, and it
still tripped. So, I informed the client it's gotta be the heater. Fortunately I had an OEM heater on the shelf.
Replacing the heater isn't a bad job, but definitely a bit of a game of Operation. On the LML it's obstructed by the engine oil dipstick tube. I removed all three bolts that anchor the dipstick and then kinda pried it away from the block.
These mixing trays sure are nice for draining larger quantities of [fill in fluid].
I put everything back together, filled with fluid, and confirmed nothing was tripping a GFCI (YAY!). I was about to tell the owners to come get it, but wait -- it couldn't be that simple. Now the lower rad hose was leaking after having been disturbed to drain the system.
These hoses can use two different possible o-rings. A new hose is ~$200
aftermarket on RA and ~$300
aftermarket B&M (even on commercial accounts). Dorman seems to know this because they offer a single o-ring --
but only for the later, updated hose -- for $20 retail or $14.50 commercial. It's absurd but they KNOW when weighed against a new hose, you'll pay $20 for a $1 o-ring.
Dorman offers no help or guidance on what to do if your lower rad hose is factory OEM "not updated" as this should use a different, thinner o-ring. Searching the web and YT netted a result of Fel-Pro 35705, which was under $2 on my O'Reilly account (and $0.89 at RA). I ordered both so I was ready, and this hose wound up taking the thicker, red/orange, overpriced Dorman. Whatever, it doesn't leak.
Replacing the o-ring:
Then, I put a TRD shift knob in the wife's new-to-us '15 Tundra. If you have to shi
ft, reach for the TuRD!!
traffic in and out of work this morning for some OT 
, Upper oil pan is pouring, All ball joints are loose & the rear shocks are blown. Customer declined these repairs.
