What are you working on today?

I changed the RF control arm today before the cooler weather arrives. Much easier on the RF. The ball joint popped right away. Entire job from start to test drive was just less than 2 hours. It's as quiet as a mouse now. Van is a 2014 with 112k miles on it.

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Had to bite the bullet and mount the snow tires on our Kia... Tis' the season! Gave everything a once over while it was in the air, and aside from Midwest corrosion starting to take over everything looks good (y)

On the tech side, I had a surprise show up the mail: my new Unihertz Titan 2. I backed the kickstarter in June and sort of forgot about it until I got a shipping notification, but here I sit typing on the first physical keyboard I've used on a phone since my Samsung Epic 4g circa-2010. If anyone is curious, here's a link:

Unihertz Titan 2
 
Rotated the tires on the wife's Durango tonight.
6404 miles since last rotated, 158,980 miles on the Durango total.
Three of the Michelins Defender LTX M/S now have 94,862 miles on them, the tread depth is 7/32" and one was 10/32" due to early replacement from nail.
Could possibly make it to 100k or more before replacing them but winter is coming soon though.
 
The clutch failed on my mates VW T4 Syncro. We had a look and decided it's too hard to do on his gravel drive, too expensive to put into a shop, but also too much money to dump it and get something else. so, we decided to go for it and pulled the engine and gearbox out the front. This was last saturday, so now he can source parts.

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Not too bad, just a crack in the pressure plate and the flywheel in half with a 3rd crack. It's going to be even more fun getting it back together.

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Winner!
 
2008 Eclipse, 201K: Valve cover reseal due to leaking spark plug tube seals. I took this opportunity to also perform a valve adjustment, replace the drive belt idler pulley, replace the spark plugs and replace the oil-marinated ignition coil boots.
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I also performed a 3rd drain and refill on the transmission. I performed a double drain and refill 3K ago…not sure why we have so much sludge on the magnet.
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Finished up with a new license plate bulb and also replaced the front caliper slide pin boots and bushings.

2018 Honda Accord 1.5T, 65K: Oil change and Tire Rotation
 
New motor mounts for the Cayenne. FCP listed these longer ones (bottom black part) for my car, and the shorter version came out. They still worked without much issue 🤷‍♂️
The old ones are shorter because they collapsed. They were as long as the new ones when first installed.
I see this every 10 years or so on my German cars with silicone filled mounts. They do dampen the vibes from going into the frame better than the solid rummer ones.
 
The old ones are shorter because they collapsed. They were as long as the new ones when first installed.
I see this every 10 years or so on my German cars with silicone filled mounts. They do dampen the vibes from going into the frame better than the solid rummer ones.
I'm not talking about the originals being collapsed, there are literally two different versions where the black part at the bottom is longer/shorter. There are different part numbers.
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Today I turned the rotors on the '99 Sonoma, repacked the front wheel bearings, replaced the pads, and changed the oil. I've got the wheels loaded up in the 04 Silverado along with some cheap new Amazon tires to be mounted Monday. Have a very interested party coming to look at it Wednesday night. Tomorrow I'm going to catch up on house cleaning, I've gotten a bit behind.
 
Finally finished working on my friend's 1946 Willys jeep. He picked it up yesterday. It runs and drives but not that well. I think I finally figured out why it doesn't run that great and still occasionally backfires at higher rpms. I suspected a timing issue but was not able to find a timing indicator anywhere on the block or timing cover to try and check the timing.

While researching that, I discovered that a lot of these 225 V6 engines have a removable timing tab, and I did find where one should have been bolted on to this block but is missing.

I also discovered that the HEI distributor on this engine is an even fired unit and not an odd, fired unit that this engine should have since it's an odd, fired engine. My research suggested that using an even fired distributor in an odd, fired engine will cause running issues such as the ones that this one has. This distributor has been on this engine the entire 20 years that he has had it, and it has run with these issues the entire time as well.

I told him he needs an odd, fired HEI unit for it to run correctly and he plans at some point to get one, but he is going to leave it for now because of how much money he has already spent just to get it running again. I'm glad to get a break from this thing since I have been working on it at my leisure for quite a while now.
 
Changed the oil (Ravenol VMP 5W30) and filter (MANN) on my bimmer. I live in Northern Virginia and I'm retired military (Navy). I used to use the auto skills shop at Fort Myer, but it closed with COVID. Then I was using Fort Belvoir, but it's now used to service base vehicles. So, I have to shlep everything to Fort Meade in Maryland, a nice 45 minute drive. At least the oil is a full operating temperature!!
 
Began putting the old Polaris Magnum's front end back together. New seals installed along with the new CV shafts. Made it to the left side and after installing, torquing the axle nut, I realized like a something. Like a simpleton, I did not install the brake rotor first. So I have to tear it down, bolt the thing but at least I didn't not fill it with hub oil yet.
 
Began putting the old Polaris Magnum's front end back together. New seals installed along with the new CV shafts. Made it to the left side and after installing, torquing the axle nut, I realized like a something. Like a simpleton, I did not install the brake rotor first. So I have to tear it down, bolt the thing but at least I didn't not fill it with hub oil yet.
Many years ago I used to be really bad about installing caliper brackets THEN trying to put the rotor on. Fortunately I apparently learned because I haven't done that in a LONG time.
 
The quad is back together....... correctly......

Hubs retorqued and everything is smooth. Decided to do a wheel alignment as well. It was a bit toe in and darty at speed. Its now somewhat properly toe out and during the test run, it was quite stable, actually a different machine.

4x4 works, no leaks, wheels stayed on and I live another day to wreck something or improperly assemble it.

@D60 remember, public school isn't for everyone. White trash isn't a birthright, you have to earn it.
 
My recently acquired ‘01 F250 7.3

Pulled off the stainless 5 inch exhaust that was on it, tailpipe was rubbing the spare and passenger rear shock good. A shame cause it was stainless. Replaced it with a 4 inch turbo back aluminized exhaust I got on marketplace new in the box for $400. Loud outside but not in the cab 👍

Next is new uppipes, intercooler boots, harpoon and hutch mod the fuel tank and a pre pump fuel filter setup

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Next up today, winter tires were aired up and put on Shtty Blue, the Sunfire. Lubed up some hinges and silicone greased the trunk weather stripping. I removed the rear drums and knocked out a pile of brake dust. Those new pads really were working in. The driver side wheel cylinder is still leaking so I cleaned it up again. Nothing open today that stocked a hone for it. That's a tomorrow problem.

Then my daughters Escape rolled in. She was working on school so I did what I could. Might be a hair of oil usage/seepage so it was topped up, maybe half a litre. ATF color and level was perfect. Tires aired up and rotated. Each brake had a quick bleed as well.

I am hopeful that I will have time get the Trailblazer done this week. Sure i can do it later but the weather is nice so let's crush the list.
 
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