What are you working on today?

@D60 your post about the ranger losing fuel reminds me of my follies..... when I changed the fuel pump on my 2006 Trailblazer, I figured I clicked the fuel line back together after I raised the tank. I felt a click but nothing audible. So I carried on my inept way. Several months later, heading home on the highway, vehicle goes dead and no restart. I hop out and see the sheen of gas all over the back end, in all the snow. I knew.... had it towed home and ordered some new clips and did it again. But, being inept, no audible click. Make it a mile down the road and same failure. At least I didn't pump the fuel tank dry.....

Third time was a charm, having to partially drop the tank to get enough free play to get that audible click as the lines actually clipped together. Public school isn't for everyone.....
 
BrianF said:
@D60 your post about the ranger losing fuel reminds me of my follies..... when I changed the fuel pump on my 2006 Trailblazer, I figured I clicked the fuel line back together after I raised the tank. I felt a click but nothing audible. So I carried on my inept way. Several months later, heading home on the highway, vehicle goes dead and no restart. I hop out and see the sheen of gas all over the back end, in all the snow. I knew.... had it towed home and ordered some new clips and did it again. But, being inept, no audible click. Make it a mile down the road and same failure. At least I didn't pump the fuel tank dry.....

Third time was a charm, having to partially drop the tank to get enough free play to get that audible click as the lines actually clipped together. Public school isn't for everyone.....
Click to expand...
Honestly I was struggling, too, but every time I thought it was seated I'd give it a pull and it would come back off.

I finally spritzed some WD40 in there and it slid together like butta with a nice click and would not pull back off.

WD40 is also my go-to for radiator hoses when the friction of dry rubber is too great. YMMV
 
D60 said:
Honestly I was struggling, too, but every time I thought it was seated I'd give it a pull and it would come back off.

I finally spritzed some WD40 in there and it slid together like butta with a nice click and would not pull back off.

WD40 is also my go-to for radiator hoses when the friction of dry rubber is too great. YMMV
Click to expand...
I was told by the elder tech for rad hoses to use GOJO as it has natural oils that won’t harm rubber. Never tried it yet
 
installed Project Aero front lip on my CTR.

Front Lip.webp
 
53' Stude said:
I was told by the elder tech for rad hoses to use GOJO as it has natural oils that won’t harm rubber. Never tried it yet
Click to expand...
Lots of older mechanics (they were all ten years older than me when some of us joined their machinery maintenance crew) had some tried and true hints and tips to help us rookies when we were in training. That (rookies) word seems/sounds so funny to me now -I ONLY been retired since about 2008.
GoJo and WD40 were two of the ones they used the most. Using , really lots of different soaps as an anti seize or helper lubricant when putting things back together. Rubbing bar soap across the threads on large & small screws , cadmium or other material made bolts.

Another good one for machinery or engine builders was to use Glyptal brand RED insulating paint coatings on the insides of oil sumps, gear boxes, bearing housings and oil passages inside large machinery. The stuff not only prevented rust but it added a really hardened , slippery surface coating to the insides or the machinery it was painted on/in. Glyptal is some really good quality stuff.
 
A Mobile tractor rock/soil/cactus sifter has been on the project list for some time. Finally got to it this week, made from scrap 2x4s, 2x6 and 2x8s, heavy gauge wire fencing, hardiplank, when I ran out of deck screws the framing hammer got a lot of action. I can slow move it to the worksite with the tractor. Need to find some chicken wire for the final layer, then the first pile will be a few yards of leaf cactus.

IMG_4600.webp


IMG_1031.webp
 
D60 said:
Honestly I was struggling, too, but every time I thought it was seated I'd give it a pull and it would come back off.

I finally spritzed some WD40 in there and it slid together like butta with a nice click and would not pull back off.

WD40 is also my go-to for radiator hoses when the friction of dry rubber is too great. YMMV
Click to expand...

WD-40 for me as well, Harmless to rubber & completely evaporates. Just don't let it dry before clocking/positioning coolant hoses!!
 
2012 GMC Yukon 5.3L/6L80E, @180,000 miles, Intermittent transmission slip/falls out of gear.....Converter clutch failure filling the unit with metal & clogged the filter, What a surprise ;)


Got to give credit the owner as no burnt frictions were found!! I've documented several of these so I won't bore you to death with all that.

Parts availability remains an issue....
*Good bushing kits, Sonnax or DuraBond only for me, Had a DuraBond kit on hand & ordered a Sonnax kit from Jegs.
*New GM Stator/Pump Cover, Some NOS ones are floating around the online flea markets for $400+, For now I'm surfacing the pump covers.

t8uRu4i.jpeg

7cQHCw0.jpeg
 
Well, after practicing my standard operating stupidity (SOS) with a/c valve cores, I got a '98 Ranger recharged and blowing cold.

Owner also says he doesn't think 4wd works, and he's right. A PVH lockout isn't working -- shocking!! I'm not convinced the Brazilian manual lockouts are the ticket, so going to troubleshoot the vac system a bit. If the hub is truly dead I'll try to just rig it to be a drive puck. People panic far too much about front axles just spinning all the time.

Steering rack leaking pretty badly, but I don't think he's gonna want to fix that.

Rear shocks blown and a front plastic sway bar link snapped. We'll see what he wants to do. 254k on the vehicle so far.
 
Following the write-up at TRS I disabled the one lockout on the '98 Ranger:
https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/permanently-lock-your-98-00-pvh-hubs/#gsc.tab=0

I didn't see a reason to pry the metal piece out. Instead I just lopped off the two right angle forks that allow it to click into either position:
20250809_110430.webp


Someone said these work like a Bic pen and they're right. Wild design that ultimately falls on its face because vacuum is rarely reliable long term IME, especially for anything CAD or lockout related (see also: GM CAD actuators eventually went electric and they are VERY reliable)

Truthfully the real Achilles heel is that these PVH hubs don't default to engaged like later IWEs. Ford's IWEs require vacuum to UNlock only, so you effectively have a fail safe.

I made sure the front diff was topped off since this side gear will always spin now.
 
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