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@D60 your post about the ranger losing fuel reminds me of my follies..... when I changed the fuel pump on my 2006 Trailblazer, I figured I clicked the fuel line back together after I raised the tank. I felt a click but nothing audible. So I carried on my inept way. Several months later, heading home on the highway, vehicle goes dead and no restart. I hop out and see the sheen of gas all over the back end, in all the snow. I knew.... had it towed home and ordered some new clips and did it again. But, being inept, no audible click. Make it a mile down the road and same failure. At least I didn't pump the fuel tank dry.....

Third time was a charm, having to partially drop the tank to get enough free play to get that audible click as the lines actually clipped together. Public school isn't for everyone.....
 
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BrianF said:
@D60 your post about the ranger losing fuel reminds me of my follies..... when I changed the fuel pump on my 2006 Trailblazer, I figured I clicked the fuel line back together after I raised the tank. I felt a click but nothing audible. So I carried on my inept way. Several months later, heading home on the highway, vehicle goes dead and no restart. I hop out and see the sheen of gas all over the back end, in all the snow. I knew.... had it towed home and ordered some new clips and did it again. But, being inept, no audible click. Make it a mile down the road and same failure. At least I didn't pump the fuel tank dry.....

Third time was a charm, having to partially drop the tank to get enough free play to get that audible click as the lines actually clipped together. Public school isn't for everyone.....
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Honestly I was struggling, too, but every time I thought it was seated I'd give it a pull and it would come back off.

I finally spritzed some WD40 in there and it slid together like butta with a nice click and would not pull back off.

WD40 is also my go-to for radiator hoses when the friction of dry rubber is too great. YMMV
 
D60 said:
Honestly I was struggling, too, but every time I thought it was seated I'd give it a pull and it would come back off.

I finally spritzed some WD40 in there and it slid together like butta with a nice click and would not pull back off.

WD40 is also my go-to for radiator hoses when the friction of dry rubber is too great. YMMV
Click to expand...
I was told by the elder tech for rad hoses to use GOJO as it has natural oils that won’t harm rubber. Never tried it yet
 
installed Project Aero front lip on my CTR.

Front Lip.webp
 
53' Stude said:
I was told by the elder tech for rad hoses to use GOJO as it has natural oils that won’t harm rubber. Never tried it yet
Click to expand...
Lots of older mechanics (they were all ten years older than me when some of us joined their machinery maintenance crew) had some tried and true hints and tips to help us rookies when we were in training. That (rookies) word seems/sounds so funny to me now -I ONLY been retired since about 2008.
GoJo and WD40 were two of the ones they used the most. Using , really lots of different soaps as an anti seize or helper lubricant when putting things back together. Rubbing bar soap across the threads on large & small screws , cadmium or other material made bolts.

Another good one for machinery or engine builders was to use Glyptal brand RED insulating paint coatings on the insides of oil sumps, gear boxes, bearing housings and oil passages inside large machinery. The stuff not only prevented rust but it added a really hardened , slippery surface coating to the insides or the machinery it was painted on/in. Glyptal is some really good quality stuff.
 
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