Another go kart acquired. This one will need some welding repairs, and TBD if i'll try to revive the engine or predator swap. Dont know much about GY6 engines.
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What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Another go kart acquired. This one will need some welding repairs, and TBD if i'll try to revive the engine or predator swap. Dont know much about GY6 engines.
Net man card deduction for having to rent a tool
You may have seen my thread about replacing a front wheel bearing on a 2009 Kia Sedona van.
The old bearing was rusted in really badly, and removal was challenging.
I feared exactly the same thing you experienced - damaging the new bearing driving it in.
I cleaned up the knuckle well with a wire wheel on a drill, and considered putting the bearing-and-hub assembly in the freezer for an hour or so to help it go in easier, but it slipped in no problem.
That's probably because it's not designed as a friction fit with a snap ring - instead, the bearing/hub assembly is secured by three beefy (12M?) bolts.
So how did things ultimately turn out for you?
I had to get an M10x1.00 tap for the spark plug in the 4-stroke I built in school. That's incredibly fine for M10
Oil change on 2018 4Runner. While I applaud Toyota's continued use of steel skidplates, I don't understand their fascination with making you remove the whole thing to get at the drain plug, filter or both. It's possible to do access panels or holes. I know. I've seen it done. We have the technology.
The plastic filter housing was so tight I thought it was going to become epic, but with a 2' ratchet and lots of muscle it finally went.
The plastic filter housing was so tight I thought it was going to become epic, but with a 2' ratchet and lots of muscle it finally went.
Tracked down an annoying rattle in the front end of my '79 to the fender cross braces that run in front of the radiator. One of them was rattling on the core support something fierce, but a piece of closed cell foam and a tweak to the tension on the rods and all was well.
Proceeded to put the '95 back up in the air with some shop air pressure in the AC system to see if I could track down the slow leak. Shocker: the compressor body is leaking at the seams. Ordered a new unit along with a new accumulator on RA, both closeout parts for $120 shipped. The compressor that's in there has already been replaced once, but I'm not surprised it's leaking already. These style always seem to have an issue with the body seals leaking.
Proceeded to put the '95 back up in the air with some shop air pressure in the AC system to see if I could track down the slow leak. Shocker: the compressor body is leaking at the seams. Ordered a new unit along with a new accumulator on RA, both closeout parts for $120 shipped. The compressor that's in there has already been replaced once, but I'm not surprised it's leaking already. These style always seem to have an issue with the body seals leaking.
@Number_35 i dont recall your post. Likely because I hadn't encountered this setup yet.
The bearing went in, had a rough spot, but I sent it for nearly 100km. I was gone for the week with work, so this week I'll punch it out and get a new one in. Napa says they will honor the part warranty so I'll deal with that Monday. Either way, a new bearing is going in.
I bought a bearing install tool as well. Oh darn, an excuse for more tools....
The bearing went in, had a rough spot, but I sent it for nearly 100km. I was gone for the week with work, so this week I'll punch it out and get a new one in. Napa says they will honor the part warranty so I'll deal with that Monday. Either way, a new bearing is going in.
I bought a bearing install tool as well. Oh darn, an excuse for more tools....
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Buddy's 2019 Forester with 87k miles. Did both diffs, coolant flush, cleaned MAF, and spark plug change. What a pain to change the plugs in this car!! But we did save him $1200 in the process, so it was worth it.
'98 K2500: new rear brake shoes and am trying the "upgrade" to dually 1-3/16" wheel cylinders. If you've never had the pleasure, GM found it hilarious to cram the spring packs up against the backing plates.
New wheel seals and brake hardware of course
Replaced just one rear wheel bearing and this gave me an excuse to use my 10# slide hammer for the first time. Not sure if my 5# would have been enough, but I wasn't messing around
I've also had these HF "toggles" for years and finally used one -- apparently I don't do a lot of semi-float wheel bearings. Anyway, the toggle was really nice. In the past I've just cut and tapped a piece of flat bar to slip behind the bearing.
While the shafts were out I used one as a jig to sand out just the inner ridge that has developed over the years. Way too much runout to machine it like this but an angle grinder or belt file held by hand will follow the work.
Tomorrow is a p/s hose and master cylinder
New wheel seals and brake hardware of course
Replaced just one rear wheel bearing and this gave me an excuse to use my 10# slide hammer for the first time. Not sure if my 5# would have been enough, but I wasn't messing around
I've also had these HF "toggles" for years and finally used one -- apparently I don't do a lot of semi-float wheel bearings. Anyway, the toggle was really nice. In the past I've just cut and tapped a piece of flat bar to slip behind the bearing.
While the shafts were out I used one as a jig to sand out just the inner ridge that has developed over the years. Way too much runout to machine it like this but an angle grinder or belt file held by hand will follow the work.
Tomorrow is a p/s hose and master cylinder
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- Sep 20, 2022
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Because of the cool weather today, going to clean the engine. Then set up to finished installing the siless 50ml & 80ml sound dampening. then start calculating for the installation of the Alcantara suede fabric wrap over the siless sound dampening sheets. I ordered 5 rolls of the fabric from vinylfrog, they has 6 in stock and ended up sending the 6th roll free..
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- May 4, 2025
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- 62
Today will be a lawn mower day. I'm replacing the oil drain valve on my new Cub Cadet LT46 lawn tractor. It has one of those cheap yellow quick-release valves that always leak. It will be replaced with a durable metal valve just like 
Also replacing blades on my old Ariens 42 lawn tractor. I decided to keep it after buying the Cub. It's 12 years old and not worth much, so it will serve as a backup.
Also replacing blades on my old Ariens 42 lawn tractor. I decided to keep it after buying the Cub. It's 12 years old and not worth much, so it will serve as a backup.
Today will be a lawn mower day. I'm replacing the oil drain valve on my new Cub Cadet LT46 lawn tractor. It has one of those cheap yellow quick-release valves that always leak. It will be replaced with a durable metal valve just like
View attachment 281087
Also replacing blades on my old Ariens 42 lawn tractor. I decided to keep it after buying the Cub. It's 12 years old and not worth much, so it will serve as a backup.
Well that's fancy!
I just used a galvanized nipple and elbow on my LT46.
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- May 4, 2025
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- 62
I decided to keep the factory extension and just add a small brass nipple. The valve extends past the frame about an inch, so its perfect for catching the oil below. The open/close screw is at the 4 o'clock position and is easy to access. I may add a 90 degree hose barb fitting for attaching a hose...or not. We'll see how this works.
I put a steering coupler in the xB (that it didn't really need)
Ignoring the seized rear caliper (that it badly needs that I keep forgetting to order
)
10/10 easy dash removal
This one's original @ 16 years old with 298k, and Hyundai/Kia couldn't make them last 30k
Ignoring the seized rear caliper (that it badly needs that I keep forgetting to order
)10/10 easy dash removal
This one's original @ 16 years old with 298k, and Hyundai/Kia couldn't make them last 30k
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- May 4, 2025
- Messages
- 62
My friends daughter got a used Scion for her 16th birthday. It had just over 100k on the clock and she drove it for another 100k+ with minimal issues. She traded for a used Jetta and instantly regretted it.
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- Sep 20, 2022
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- 335
Not a very productive day for this old man.. while under the van that's in a 1940's garage with near zero room. I was greasing up the ball joints on the control arm, tie rod ends and end links.. about the 3rd zerk.. the cheap grease gun exploded like those pillsbury cinnamon roll container when you hit them on the side of the table to open them. Grease went everywhere.. main reason it splattered all over the place is that the grease gun socket got stuck on the zerk.. I couldn't remove it. Hit it with hammer and splat.. I'm getting to old for this. I hate it but time to send me out to pasture..
I need to bench bleed a master and prefer the hoses fed back into the reservoir. I thought I had a decent selection of the fittings with barbs for a small hose, but couldn't find a 1/2‐20, which I needed.
I had two 9/16‐18 and thought maybe I could turn it down, but workholding was the next obstacle. I was not about to chuck up on the tiny barbed portion, and the wrench flats were 5/8" square. To my surprise I have a 5/8" square 5C collet, and that worked great.
I'll often use the face of a chuck in the tailstock to hold a die square to the work:
Looks factory more or less:
I had two 9/16‐18 and thought maybe I could turn it down, but workholding was the next obstacle. I was not about to chuck up on the tiny barbed portion, and the wrench flats were 5/8" square. To my surprise I have a 5/8" square 5C collet, and that worked great.
I'll often use the face of a chuck in the tailstock to hold a die square to the work:
Looks factory more or less:
This weekend consisted of mowing/brush hogging and got fence pulled out to the corner post on the south end. Japanese honeysuckle.. smells good but highly invasive. Found the best way is to take the tractor bucket and rip it out. If I can ever fix the chainsaw I’ll get to cutting the main vines. The north is ready to be pulled out but burned that end so hoping enough rain will wash everything off.
