Threw on one of my Schaeffer decals just cause I wanted to.
I get $100 per axle labor, plus parts, regardless of whether it's a pad slap (which I typically don't do) or full on pads and rotors. If I turn a rotor or drum it's $20 per rotor/drum, but I seldom bother anymore unless it's for myself.Front brakes on a 2017 Spark
I ran the part numbers, turns out it still had factory rotors/pads at 8 years and ~80k miles
It got ACDelco service pads and Raybestos coated rotors
Significantly less grindey
One inner pad ground to the metal, the other side bound up in the bracket before that could happen
Surprisingly all the pins and boots were in reusable condition, and the rotor screws both came out
I mean one broke, but that's still a win in my climate
I use Moly heavy brake lube on metal to metal surfaces, and silicone paste w/PTFE on pins
Just out of curiosity, what should one expect to pay for a pad & rotor job these days?
Because I understand people are hurting these days, OTOH my time and skill has value
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As an owner of the Tacoma 4T, that is scary.Ehh, I think I'd rather assemble a 4 cylinder over the V6 personally. But, everyone hates the new 4 pot turbo...
I know of someone with a 4th gen where I want to say the oil filter came off, dumped all its oil, and blew up. Took months for all the parts to show up and the dealer managed to screw up the assembly. That truck was lemon lawed.
Are those rails factory or something that’s been added? They are a good idea regardless.DIY toolbox for the Tacoma. Used ammo can, rustoleum, and some lock hasps from Amazon. Screws into the existing bed rails. The ammo can locks are effective, but if someone wanted it, they could wrestle the mount right off the bed, so I wouldn’t call it high security.
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They are factory and designed to work with some oem accessories, most of which I would describe as homeowner friendly. They have movable rope cleats that come with the truck that are impressively sturdy if you’re securing camping gear - but if I’m tying down a small riding mower, any kind of lumber, or anything at all with a ratchet strap, I would be going for the traditional anchor points in the bed.Are those rails factory or something that’s been added? They are a good idea regardless.
Looks very similar to uni-strut but isn't.Are those rails factory or something that’s been added? They are a good idea regardless.
That sounds entirely reasonable. I’d be happy to pay that price, even if just for a pad slap.I get $100 per axle labor, plus parts, regardless of whether it's a pad slap (which I typically don't do) or full on pads and rotors. If I turn a rotor or drum it's $20 per rotor/drum, but I seldom bother anymore unless it's for myself.
If it sounds expensive, power to the shop isn't free, and neither is the use of my four post lift or the brake lathe. If you're doing it all on the ground with jack stands, I'd recommend you charge accordingly for that and get some knee pads. Be wary of giving favors and those who ask for them. You give enough away, you end up being in the bread line yourself.
Finally got the 10r80 all apart, had to buy some tools to get a majority of the pistons out. Also had to buy a special cup to remove A clutch piston. Got everything cleaned up too.
Assembled B clutch and had .054” clearance which is in spec but on the tighter end, no issues there.
Found E clutch drum is also damaged, this is the clutch that lost pressure completely from the failed seal. The drum is gouged up pretty good by the steel plates, it even bound on these marks just trying to lift them off, nevermind under a load. Adding that too the parts list, and that should do it I think. Now just had to wait for everything to come in.
Can’t assemble anything else until I get CDF and E drums, and still waiting on more frictions and a couple steels. Plus the planetary and torque converter.
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100% stock 3.5 ecoboost. He does tow a fairly heavy trailer occasionally thoughIs it from a tuned vehicle? If so, how'd they go about handling the torque tables and torque truncation? There's a certain order of operations to these things, and a lot of times that order is misunderstood or neglected by the inexperienced.
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It’s wild that cab-off is now easier than engine-up!More progress on the L84/Silverado, Like the fact you can assemble 95% of the cooling stack before lowing the cab. I don't like the fact it doesn't have a traditional master cylinder & had to break the system apart.
New oil cooler lines as the old one's were leaking.
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