Threw on one of my Schaeffer decals just cause I wanted to.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Really thought I had fixed the 1989 John Deere RX75 riding mower. Previously, the fuel filter appeared to be clogged. Put a new filter in it, and got halfway through mulching last fall's leaves, then it sputtered to a stop in middle of the yard. Grrr... Looked at the new transparent filter, and noticed what looked like a couple of black flakes in it. Seems the old rubber fuel hoses are disintegrating on the inside and had clogged up. Pulled them off, and sure enough, the fuel lines are clogged. Back to Autozone for some new fuel hose, and while the couple chunks in the fuel filter might not be good, fuel is flowing freely through the filter and it's running again.
Wired in a new headlight socket for the second time in the Trax.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 2,210
I get $100 per axle labor, plus parts, regardless of whether it's a pad slap (which I typically don't do) or full on pads and rotors. If I turn a rotor or drum it's $20 per rotor/drum, but I seldom bother anymore unless it's for myself.Front brakes on a 2017 Spark
I ran the part numbers, turns out it still had factory rotors/pads at 8 years and ~80k miles
It got ACDelco service pads and Raybestos coated rotors
Significantly less grindey
One inner pad ground to the metal, the other side bound up in the bracket before that could happen
Surprisingly all the pins and boots were in reusable condition, and the rotor screws both came out
I mean one broke, but that's still a win in my climate
I use Moly heavy brake lube on metal to metal surfaces, and silicone paste w/PTFE on pins
Just out of curiosity, what should one expect to pay for a pad & rotor job these days?
Because I understand people are hurting these days, OTOH my time and skill has value
View attachment 277118
If it sounds expensive, power to the shop isn't free, and neither is the use of my four post lift or the brake lathe. If you're doing it all on the ground with jack stands, I'd recommend you charge accordingly for that and get some knee pads. Be wary of giving favors and those who ask for them. You give enough away, you end up being in the bread line yourself.
As an owner of the Tacoma 4T, that is scary.
I can see why people are uncertain about it. It’s like driving a diesel, 1300-1500 rpm all day long. It growls and digs, kinda like a tractor. The same engine is used I think in the highlander. It’s far more refined in that application. In the taco it is gruff. Fingers crossed they hold up.
DIY toolbox for the Tacoma. Used ammo can, rustoleum, and some lock hasps from Amazon. Screws into the existing bed rails. The ammo can locks are effective, but if someone wanted it, they could wrestle the mount right off the bed, so I wouldn’t call it high security.
Are those rails factory or something that’s been added? They are a good idea regardless.
They are factory and designed to work with some oem accessories, most of which I would describe as homeowner friendly. They have movable rope cleats that come with the truck that are impressively sturdy if you’re securing camping gear - but if I’m tying down a small riding mower, any kind of lumber, or anything at all with a ratchet strap, I would be going for the traditional anchor points in the bed.
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2022
- Messages
- 394
New battery on the 2015 Subaru Forester, 1st replacement would be 7 years old this year and decided to be proactive. Installed a duracell group 35 non-agm from sams club.
Installed a new seat switch and fuel lines on my riding lawn mower and listed it on Facebook market place. Didn't feel right selling it with a bypassed seat switch. Stopped cutting grass 3 years ago. Decided I fix enough stuff to offset and am too busy so i pay for grass cutting. Hopefully it will sell.
Installed a new seat switch and fuel lines on my riding lawn mower and listed it on Facebook market place. Didn't feel right selling it with a bypassed seat switch. Stopped cutting grass 3 years ago. Decided I fix enough stuff to offset and am too busy so i pay for grass cutting. Hopefully it will sell.
Started on spring maintenance for hay equipment this evening. Pickup attachment was getting noisy on the baler last year and I suspected the cam followers were on their way out. Pulled the guards and drive chain off tonight and I was right. Fortunately they’re easily available aftermarket and only about $27 each. Then moved on to replacing broken pickup teeth. This was the only photo I got of the project. Gotta run to the dealer this week for some new bolts as some of teeth ran loose and damaged the hardware. The HyperTough 3/8 impact makes changing these a breeze.
After this is back together I need to replace the chamber pressure gauge as it’s not legible anymore and then I’ll recharge the bale density system. When we head to the field I need to recalibrate the bale size sensor as they were running several inches off what my cab monitor said. I need a bale in the chamber to do that though so it’ll have to wait. There will be some rake teeth to change and mower knives to sharpen but all minor stuff hopefully.
After this is back together I need to replace the chamber pressure gauge as it’s not legible anymore and then I’ll recharge the bale density system. When we head to the field I need to recalibrate the bale size sensor as they were running several inches off what my cab monitor said. I need a bale in the chamber to do that though so it’ll have to wait. There will be some rake teeth to change and mower knives to sharpen but all minor stuff hopefully.
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2022
- Messages
- 394
Looks very similar to uni-strut but isn't.
Finally got the 10r80 all apart, had to buy some tools to get a majority of the pistons out. Also had to buy a special cup to remove A clutch piston. Got everything cleaned up too.
Assembled B clutch and had .054” clearance which is in spec but on the tighter end, no issues there.
Found E clutch drum is also damaged, this is the clutch that lost pressure completely from the failed seal. The drum is gouged up pretty good by the steel plates, it even bound on these marks just trying to lift them off, nevermind under a load. Adding that too the parts list, and that should do it I think. Now just had to wait for everything to come in.
Can’t assemble anything else until I get CDF and E drums, and still waiting on more frictions and a couple steels. Plus the planetary and torque converter.
Assembled B clutch and had .054” clearance which is in spec but on the tighter end, no issues there.
Found E clutch drum is also damaged, this is the clutch that lost pressure completely from the failed seal. The drum is gouged up pretty good by the steel plates, it even bound on these marks just trying to lift them off, nevermind under a load. Adding that too the parts list, and that should do it I think. Now just had to wait for everything to come in.
Can’t assemble anything else until I get CDF and E drums, and still waiting on more frictions and a couple steels. Plus the planetary and torque converter.
Neighbor got a drive belt installed and a 10 qt trans fluid exchange on his 2010 Camry V6.
I have been slowly chipping away at the laundry list of items. Next up are front lower control arms, ball joints and drive belt tensioner.
I have been slowly chipping away at the laundry list of items. Next up are front lower control arms, ball joints and drive belt tensioner.
That sounds entirely reasonable. I’d be happy to pay that price, even if just for a pad slap.
I haven’t been a business owner for about 15 years but folks simply do not understand the costs involved in running even a small operation.
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2025
- Messages
- 278
Is it from a tuned vehicle? If so, how'd they go about handling the torque tables and torque truncation? There's a certain order of operations to these things, and a lot of times that order is misunderstood or neglected by the inexperienced.
100% stock 3.5 ecoboost. He does tow a fairly heavy trailer occasionally though
More progress on the L84/Silverado, Like the fact you can assemble 95% of the cooling stack before lowing the cab. I don't like the fact it doesn't have a traditional master cylinder & had to break the system apart.
New oil cooler lines as the old one's were leaking.
New oil cooler lines as the old one's were leaking.
It’s wild that cab-off is now easier than engine-up!More progress on the L84/Silverado, Like the fact you can assemble 95% of the cooling stack before lowing the cab. I don't like the fact it doesn't have a traditional master cylinder & had to break the system apart.
New oil cooler lines as the old one's were leaking.
I really goofed on that through my f150 ownership - having run a number of wires from front to rear for inverter power, several lighting circuits and a built-in solar charger. If I were to do it again, I would have installed well-marked connectors to allow cab removal without cutting. Takes more to DIY now…?
I wouldn't do a Ecoboost Ford without lifting the cab!! I charge by the hour for owner installed accessories that get in my way.
I've done a T1xx GM L84 swap without pulling the cab.....Never again, It's horrible! The engine will not come out without first removing the entire cooling stack.
Calls for 27 hours to swap the camshaft & GM has you do it with the engine in place, I'm on pace for @18 hours & the customer will get a better quality job at that. Bet a younger mechanic in his prime could do it faster.
I've done a T1xx GM L84 swap without pulling the cab.....Never again, It's horrible! The engine will not come out without first removing the entire cooling stack.
Calls for 27 hours to swap the camshaft & GM has you do it with the engine in place, I'm on pace for @18 hours & the customer will get a better quality job at that. Bet a younger mechanic in his prime could do it faster.
As compelling as it is, new right taillight on '08 Escalade EXT (Avalanche)
These EXT (truck) taillights are apparently unique to the body '07-13. They're also relatively rare. I first ordered a used one on ebay from a JY with good fb but no photos. It was way wrong, so I returned it.
I then found new OEM through Quirk Parts. I love Quirk with my only complaint being that they're in @Trav 's neck of the woods, and thus really far from me.
The new taillight was shipped USPS and bounced around New England for a couple days, then arrived in Denver. Awesome, as our mail truck comes from Denver everyday. Then it inexplicably showed up in NEW JERSEY!!!! before again returning to Denver, and finally made its way to me several days late.
Cost was about $230 including tax, and this is competitive retail if you can believe it. This is a traditional incandescent setup -- the EXT was not LED '07-13 (I believe the SUVs were)
I don't know why my phone translated a reflection as an odd gray blemish, but the new lens is perfect IRL:
The moral is don't break a taillight on an '07-13 Escalade truck, and if you see lenses cheap, hoard them
These EXT (truck) taillights are apparently unique to the body '07-13. They're also relatively rare. I first ordered a used one on ebay from a JY with good fb but no photos. It was way wrong, so I returned it.
I then found new OEM through Quirk Parts. I love Quirk with my only complaint being that they're in @Trav 's neck of the woods, and thus really far from me.
The new taillight was shipped USPS and bounced around New England for a couple days, then arrived in Denver. Awesome, as our mail truck comes from Denver everyday. Then it inexplicably showed up in NEW JERSEY!!!! before again returning to Denver, and finally made its way to me several days late.
Cost was about $230 including tax, and this is competitive retail if you can believe it. This is a traditional incandescent setup -- the EXT was not LED '07-13 (I believe the SUVs were)
I don't know why my phone translated a reflection as an odd gray blemish, but the new lens is perfect IRL:
The moral is don't break a taillight on an '07-13 Escalade truck, and if you see lenses cheap, hoard them