I'm glad I'm not the only one!! This is textbook for most "repeat" jobs for me!!If you're like me, just enough time will go by before the next one that you'll forget how you solved any of the challenging bits of the job!
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
2005 Honda CR-V 323,300km
Replaced all 6 HVAC Console lights. They’re strange bulbs that are on the end of a stick so it’s OEM only. $78CAD total for these bulbs, which is insane..but I wanted to fix it so I paid.
Replaced all 6 HVAC Console lights. They’re strange bulbs that are on the end of a stick so it’s OEM only. $78CAD total for these bulbs, which is insane..but I wanted to fix it so I paid.
@ Sedin,
That's quite a costly set. Come across any LED-style replacements?
That's quite a costly set. Come across any LED-style replacements?
When I did a '98 CRV it was T5 or T6 neo-wedge, but those are longer in the body.
The base looks like a neo-wedge though. They look identical except for the extended length, actually
2002 Subaru Impreza: replaced only the right front strut. This was a freebie for a "family friend" who refused to fix it, but every time I'd test drive the vehicle it drove me nuts. He always "tips" me for the work I do do for him, so I figured he'd earned some goodwill.
I ordered an FCS from RA for ~$28 and found a strut mount on ebay for ~$26.
Interestingly, it looks like these mounts use a 6303 so you could rehab them.
Everything broken down:
Spring moved over. Note how the old strut stays compressed -- it was 100% blown and you could move the slider as fast as you wanted by hand.
I ordered an FCS from RA for ~$28 and found a strut mount on ebay for ~$26.
Interestingly, it looks like these mounts use a 6303 so you could rehab them.
Everything broken down:
Spring moved over. Note how the old strut stays compressed -- it was 100% blown and you could move the slider as fast as you wanted by hand.
Now you tell me!
Next on the list is the dash lights. I think there are 14 or so of them - I replaced all with Dorman a couple of years back and almost all are burned out already. I should have known better.
I'll go OEM for those since it's a bit harder to get access to them but if I ever have to do the HVAC ones I'll maybe get the Amazon bulbs since they are a quick job. I also have to factor in that every time I do something like this I break at least one plastic clip!
I didn't but didn't look too hard either....
Got the ISL Cummins almost together. Waiting on the parts washer to be cleaned of all things now. Counter bores cut, had to have a small rot hole filled with marine Tex in the counterbore. Only other choice was to replace the block. Didn’t want to do that, can’t justify after relatively little hours. New head, reused pistons (unavailable), new rod bearings and reused mains. They were in good shape. New wiring harness also for the engine side, fuel injector harnesses contaminated the entire harness with oil. Noticed the radiator had been leaking for a bit yesterday so going to price out a radiator too. Waiting on some last odd and end parts to come in too.
I did front struts on my 2012 Scion today...well. almost. The driver's side went fine but the sway bar end won't come loose on the passenger side. There's an opening for a hex wrench so you can hold the end and turn the nut but it wallowed itself out before the nut came off. I went ahead and installed the strut assembly but I have to go pick up a new sway bar before I can finish the job.
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2025
Predders coilovers on the Caprice. Best money I have spent on this car. Didn't feel this good when I picked it up with 12000 miles on it. Rides smooth, is quiet and planted.
Replaced the wonderful "chrome" interior door handles on a GMT900.
Left side, old vs new
If you buy the handle ONLY, I drove out the pin by placing a receiver socket in my vise at just the right height and then driving down with a punch. The plastic can't take much abuse so you have to isolate any force you apply.
RH, old
RH, new. Much more friendly to human skin
Left side, old vs new
If you buy the handle ONLY, I drove out the pin by placing a receiver socket in my vise at just the right height and then driving down with a punch. The plastic can't take much abuse so you have to isolate any force you apply.
RH, old
RH, new. Much more friendly to human skin
My 2021 JLU Wrangler 4xe was experiencing a very slight steering shimmy that occurred on rough pavement at speeds over 50 mph. I don’t believe that any steering components are worn, so I decided to upgrade to an AEV/Bilstein steering damper.
Being old and stubborn I performed the install with the Jeep on the ground. With a regular damper that wouldn't be as issue, but the AEV/Bilstein piece uses a monotube high gas pressure design- which means that it's very hard to compress it enough so that it will fit into the Jeep's mounting brackets. Because of the reduced clearance and lack of leverage it took me several tries -I thought I was going to pop a blood vessel towards the end- but I finally had it installed with the two mounting bolts torqued to the correct values. AEV provides a nut and bolt to replace the long shank bolt that is found on the tie rod end of Wranglers from mid 2021-on but the bolt is a bit of a loose fit. Instead of using it I bought the proper short shank bolt at my Jeep dealer (PN 06510774AA) for $3.10. It's a much tighter fit and it eliminates the need to put a wrench on the bolt head to tighten the nut.
I took it on a test drive and I really like it. It firms up the steering a bit and eliminated any hint of shimmy. Some people don't like the AEV/Bilstein damper because the high pressure design causes a very slight pull to the right. I didn't notice it unless I took both hands off the wheel; it doesn't bother me at all, but YMMV. So that's Jeep modification number 1 for 2025.
Being old and stubborn I performed the install with the Jeep on the ground. With a regular damper that wouldn't be as issue, but the AEV/Bilstein piece uses a monotube high gas pressure design- which means that it's very hard to compress it enough so that it will fit into the Jeep's mounting brackets. Because of the reduced clearance and lack of leverage it took me several tries -I thought I was going to pop a blood vessel towards the end- but I finally had it installed with the two mounting bolts torqued to the correct values. AEV provides a nut and bolt to replace the long shank bolt that is found on the tie rod end of Wranglers from mid 2021-on but the bolt is a bit of a loose fit. Instead of using it I bought the proper short shank bolt at my Jeep dealer (PN 06510774AA) for $3.10. It's a much tighter fit and it eliminates the need to put a wrench on the bolt head to tighten the nut.
I took it on a test drive and I really like it. It firms up the steering a bit and eliminated any hint of shimmy. Some people don't like the AEV/Bilstein damper because the high pressure design causes a very slight pull to the right. I didn't notice it unless I took both hands off the wheel; it doesn't bother me at all, but YMMV. So that's Jeep modification number 1 for 2025.
MG made its first trip out of the garage this year. Wheels are back on with new tires, and my DIY bubble balancing worked. Got some grease in the suspension, and a road test confirms a smooth ride with no shakes or wobbles. 
Now that one of the toys is drivable, back to making the Lincoln drivable.
Now that one of the toys is drivable, back to making the Lincoln drivable.
Pulled all the plugs and cap on the Dakota. Has a random stumble during idle, worse when damp out. Plugs only have 4k on them so their perfect. Guess next step is the injector wiring, or other wiring. Next pulled out the ignition switch on the Farmstiva.. it exploded. Cleaned all the contacts and managed to get it back together and it works! I’m amazed. Last had a 1.5 Pittsburg jack that wouldn’t hold. Dumped all the oil out and refilled, seems ok now but not going to trust it. Tried that prior but didn’t last long. Bought it out of the clearance section.. should of taken it back.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 2,210
1988 Chevrolet S10 extended cab swb
Replaced driveshaft center support bearing
2013 Toyota Camry 2.5 4 cylinder
Replaced water pump, serpentine belt, thermostat, rotated tires, changed oil
Pulled a set of heads of a core 5.3 Vortec to take to the machine shop for service
Replaced driveshaft center support bearing
2013 Toyota Camry 2.5 4 cylinder
Replaced water pump, serpentine belt, thermostat, rotated tires, changed oil
Pulled a set of heads of a core 5.3 Vortec to take to the machine shop for service
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
I recall some shocks having a cord system that compounded like a small block and tackle - that let you control the extension force until stabbed …
I put a Monroe stab for a 2nd Gen Ram on my '19 JLUR. I didn't want to visit the dealer for V41 TSB
The Ram unit cured my DW with 38s. Guys spend way too much on boutique steering stabs.
More hard hitting tech: replaced the swelling/swollen lugnuts on a '17 JK. Half wouldn't take a 19mm and two of them wouldn't even take my 19.5mm
Our local Ford/Toy dealer let it off their used lot with wheel spacers (shrug):
New McGards:
Our local Ford/Toy dealer let it off their used lot with wheel spacers (shrug):
New McGards: