What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Well I got the Dorman wiper pulse board installed and I think Dorman strikes again. Now we have a single swipe of the wipers each time the key is initially turned.
It seems to require something going to sleep because if you immediately turn the key again it won't happen, but let it sit for a minute or two and it will happen predictably.
I tried monkeying with the switch but nothing will seemingly stop the single sweep.
My first instinct is to replace the module again before spending more time on it. I think I'm going to try ordering GM from RA. Presently the wipers work on all speeds so the truck is usable as-is -- but this MUST be addressed before winter freezing conditions
It seems to require something going to sleep because if you immediately turn the key again it won't happen, but let it sit for a minute or two and it will happen predictably.
I tried monkeying with the switch but nothing will seemingly stop the single sweep.
My first instinct is to replace the module again before spending more time on it. I think I'm going to try ordering GM from RA. Presently the wipers work on all speeds so the truck is usable as-is -- but this MUST be addressed before winter freezing conditions
The mower parts showed up so got the deck put back together. 2 new idler pulleys, belt and spring. Amusing enough the main pulley was hitting the deck on the front and had been for a long time. Adjusted the front down a bit and that stopped, I might see if the deck can be set back further. Also amusing after starting and stopping it several times adjusting the deck it wouldn't start. I noticed it was starting odd but thought it was something my oldest was doing. Similar to the auger the snap on piece for the plug was pushed up further in the boot, that's 2 this week.
Fixed the ground on the pickup bed trailer, I think anyways. Spliced on the short ground wires and ran them to the frame. Why don't trailer kits just run the ground all the way to the front?? Would be alot easier. Lastly put a fuel filter on the scooter.. that ended the day with the gas bath I got.
Fixed the ground on the pickup bed trailer, I think anyways. Spliced on the short ground wires and ran them to the frame. Why don't trailer kits just run the ground all the way to the front?? Would be alot easier. Lastly put a fuel filter on the scooter.. that ended the day with the gas bath I got.
The order of events in a post like this is important.
Front struts on a '15 Cherokee. The owner didn't care about B6 Bilsteins and wanted the B4.
These are some of the few (in my limited experience) where clocking of the mount matters. The strut tower slopes so you need the angled mount to be rotated close to the same so angles match. There's a tab on the mount that lines up with a hole in the body.
Separating from the knuckle here after removing the pinch bolt
These are some of the few (in my limited experience) where clocking of the mount matters. The strut tower slopes so you need the angled mount to be rotated close to the same so angles match. There's a tab on the mount that lines up with a hole in the body.
Separating from the knuckle here after removing the pinch bolt
When I did the wiper pulse module on this GMT800 I tried to gingerly pry the washer tube elbows from the cowl. The driver side popped out beautifully but the passenger side snapped.
I was able to extract it with a very small screw (above), but apparently these elbows are unobtainium ("part of the wiper arm"). I have a decent assortment of vacuum fittings but for some reason vacuum elbows hardly exist.
I had a bunch of Ts so I decided to snip one leg, melt it with my heat gun and smash it closed while hot. This worked surprisingly well (shrug)
I've since ordered some generic elbows on Amazon -- and I had to hunt to find anything -- but I suspect they're not UV stabilized. If anyone has sources I'm all ears.
@clinebarger did you ever have a problem with this?
I was able to extract it with a very small screw (above), but apparently these elbows are unobtainium ("part of the wiper arm"). I have a decent assortment of vacuum fittings but for some reason vacuum elbows hardly exist.
I had a bunch of Ts so I decided to snip one leg, melt it with my heat gun and smash it closed while hot. This worked surprisingly well (shrug)
I've since ordered some generic elbows on Amazon -- and I had to hunt to find anything -- but I suspect they're not UV stabilized. If anyone has sources I'm all ears.
@clinebarger did you ever have a problem with this?
Rebuilding one of my M10 engines, with the help of a good friend, to 'Euro spec' for our '74 BMW. Uprated cam, 9.5:1 pistons and a few other goodies to make a livelier, but not high-strung motor.
Dissembling the lower end and we find the metal locking nuts on one of the big ends upside down on the studs! The other cylinders were fine, but one cylinder had the nuts with the conical locking side down....how do you even do that? Sometimes I wish I could get into prior owners' heads, but I know I'd probably quickly regret that.
Dissembling the lower end and we find the metal locking nuts on one of the big ends upside down on the studs! The other cylinders were fine, but one cylinder had the nuts with the conical locking side down....how do you even do that? Sometimes I wish I could get into prior owners' heads, but I know I'd probably quickly regret that.
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I replaced the alternator last night on the Focus, and learned my lesson on cheap remanufactured parts, as this one only went 6 months... I had a spare one rebuilt locally instead of putting in another reman from mexico.... Only took a couple hours this time though, so I am getting faster!
Also I was got a taste of what owning an old Nissan Leaf with a bad battery would be like... I could drive the 35 minutes back and forth to work just running on the car battery charged at home, then charge it at work during the day! Battery only got down to 11.9v while running so I don't think the battery suffered too much abuse?
Also I was got a taste of what owning an old Nissan Leaf with a bad battery would be like... I could drive the 35 minutes back and forth to work just running on the car battery charged at home, then charge it at work during the day! Battery only got down to 11.9v while running so I don't think the battery suffered too much abuse?
Gave up and ordered a new head for my string trimmer. 4 years of beating the thing did not teach it obedience
Not bad durability though
Not bad durability though
R&R front shaft on 2006 Hummer H3
In the past I've disconnected the shock but that's a PITA to put back together on the lift as you fight the torsion bar. This time I disconnected the tie rod and sway bar and swung the axle out the front, which I'd say is better after doing it.
In the past I've disconnected the shock but that's a PITA to put back together on the lift as you fight the torsion bar. This time I disconnected the tie rod and sway bar and swung the axle out the front, which I'd say is better after doing it.
14 ES300h with 117K.
Performed a portion of the 120k service: Oil Change, Tire Rotation, Brake Fluid Exchange and Cabin Air Filter.
Will replace the spark plugs and air filter at a later date when I have more time. During inspection also found a failing original 12V battery, which the owner approved replacing.
Performed a portion of the 120k service: Oil Change, Tire Rotation, Brake Fluid Exchange and Cabin Air Filter.
Will replace the spark plugs and air filter at a later date when I have more time. During inspection also found a failing original 12V battery, which the owner approved replacing.
Wow, another 11 year old OEM battery in a Japanese car. Just goes to show that all the after market ones we can get here in the States are sub par.
Worked on the 2019 Yamaha Wolverine x2. Time for a new belt. We work it hard and she was slipping for some time now.
All in all, just under 3 hours to figure it out. Hardest and lengthiest part was tearing down the plastics to gain access. The old belt had some cracks and had narrowed. New one in and began to break it in.
All in all, just under 3 hours to figure it out. Hardest and lengthiest part was tearing down the plastics to gain access. The old belt had some cracks and had narrowed. New one in and began to break it in.
Run down of the week....
2005 Toyota Sienna, 3MZ-FE, Wheelchair Ramp conversion. From a shop I do work for that's pretty decent at diagnostics so I knew this one would be interesting!!
Lead mechanic said it acts up when it rains or going through a automatic car wash, So we know it's water related. Said it sets random DTC's.....TPS performance/correlation, Throttle Motor performance, & Internal PCM performance.
Engine will stall & not restart until allowed to dry out.
Poked around a little to see if anything obvious stood out....Wet carpet as the rear O2 sensor wiring is under the carpet, Had my helper pressure wash the vehicle while I looked for any sign of intrusion.......Pressure washed the engine while running....Top & Bottom. No stall???, No DTC's.
Decided to run it through a automatic car wash....Soon as the front of the van entered the & got the front wet, The engine stalled & would not restart.
No check engine lamp KOEO, No communication with the PCM, Had to be pulled back to the shop. Soon as we got back, Engine would start & run. Told my helper that their water must hit different than our water
Pulled it up on the drive on lift armed with a spray bottle of water & went front to back dosing everything with the engine running.
Got almost the whole underside of the van wet when I sprayed the left rear section where the tail light harness is & the engine stalled.
Key off....Unhooked the negative cable, Investigated the tail light harness & found the "Smoking Gun", One of the wires had rubbed through & burnt a good 7 inches of insulation off likely from the initial short circuit.
After that water would cause a "soft short"....Just enough to bring the PCM to it's knees. This was 100% caused by the ramp conversion from bad harness routing (These have the entire floor cut out & lowered)
Cut the burnt piece of wire out & replaced it, Wrapped the harness good with Scotch Super 33, Then double wrapped it again with Tesa 51036 anti-abrasion tape.
Go the crank it back up....Crank no start, Check Engine Lamp does light but no communication with scan tool. van had 2 extra PCM's in the floor board, One is dead just like the one installed....The other communicated & had a Immobilizer DTC which is to be expected. Starts for 1 second & dies (Classic immobilizer stuff) Key is not "chipped" so this van is not equipped with immobilizer.
**Odd because most Toyota's of this era do, Likely something with the conversion builder ordering it this way?
Waiting for the client shop to find a PCM without immobilizer or have this one reprogrammed.
Yes....I knocked the PCM out in pursuit of the issue, Just the straw that broke the camels back. The client shop is okay with it but likely a tough sell if the vehicle owner is told the truth as they will lock-in on the fact the PCM was damaged during diagnostics.
2005 Toyota Sienna, 3MZ-FE, Wheelchair Ramp conversion. From a shop I do work for that's pretty decent at diagnostics so I knew this one would be interesting!!
Lead mechanic said it acts up when it rains or going through a automatic car wash, So we know it's water related. Said it sets random DTC's.....TPS performance/correlation, Throttle Motor performance, & Internal PCM performance.
Engine will stall & not restart until allowed to dry out.
Poked around a little to see if anything obvious stood out....Wet carpet as the rear O2 sensor wiring is under the carpet, Had my helper pressure wash the vehicle while I looked for any sign of intrusion.......Pressure washed the engine while running....Top & Bottom. No stall???, No DTC's.
Decided to run it through a automatic car wash....Soon as the front of the van entered the & got the front wet, The engine stalled & would not restart.
No check engine lamp KOEO, No communication with the PCM, Had to be pulled back to the shop. Soon as we got back, Engine would start & run. Told my helper that their water must hit different than our water
Pulled it up on the drive on lift armed with a spray bottle of water & went front to back dosing everything with the engine running.
Got almost the whole underside of the van wet when I sprayed the left rear section where the tail light harness is & the engine stalled.
Key off....Unhooked the negative cable, Investigated the tail light harness & found the "Smoking Gun", One of the wires had rubbed through & burnt a good 7 inches of insulation off likely from the initial short circuit.
After that water would cause a "soft short"....Just enough to bring the PCM to it's knees. This was 100% caused by the ramp conversion from bad harness routing (These have the entire floor cut out & lowered)
Cut the burnt piece of wire out & replaced it, Wrapped the harness good with Scotch Super 33, Then double wrapped it again with Tesa 51036 anti-abrasion tape.
Go the crank it back up....Crank no start, Check Engine Lamp does light but no communication with scan tool. van had 2 extra PCM's in the floor board, One is dead just like the one installed....The other communicated & had a Immobilizer DTC which is to be expected. Starts for 1 second & dies (Classic immobilizer stuff) Key is not "chipped" so this van is not equipped with immobilizer.
**Odd because most Toyota's of this era do, Likely something with the conversion builder ordering it this way?
Waiting for the client shop to find a PCM without immobilizer or have this one reprogrammed.
Yes....I knocked the PCM out in pursuit of the issue, Just the straw that broke the camels back. The client shop is okay with it but likely a tough sell if the vehicle owner is told the truth as they will lock-in on the fact the PCM was damaged during diagnostics.
Continued......
2001 GMC Sierra 1500, LM7/4L60E. Customer is a decent DIY'er & a "Car guy".
Complaint P0300 & flashing check engine light.....Coils, Spark Plugs, & Injectors replaced, Valve covers pulled to inspect the valvetrain movement & valve spring breakage. Good static & dynamic compression test results.
He bought it recently with this issue already present think he could fix & flip it quick
Scan data showed history misfires on all the Bank 2 cylinders.....But #4 had 3 times the counts. Looked over the truck some more, It has long tube headers, No catalytic converters, & No rear O2 sensors meaning the PCM has been "tuned"
Switched over to fuel trim data.....Bank 2 LTFT is at 52% which I believe is a substituted value & the STFT was at Zero.
Bank 2 upstream O2 sensor was stuck at Zero VDC.
Bank 1 upstream O2 sensor was switching pretty good.
Both downstream were stuck at 447mV (GM bias voltage) because no sensors are present.
Unplugged the Bank 2 upstream O2 sensor & the voltage shot up to 447mV & the active misfires went away....Stayed in closed loop though.
Killed the engine & allowed to cool, KOEO....Bank 2 sensor still unplugged, All 4 PID's were at 447mV, Plugged back in the offending sensor & voltage dropped to Zero. Had a Denso sensor coming but wanted the prove it out.
All this is because the "Tuner" turned off ALL the oxygen sensor DTC's which pauses all kinds of self diagnostic routines!!!
Read the calibration file via HP Tuners to verify & was correct in my assumption.....Transmission pressure is also jacked to the max which was also observed on the test drive with a down right violet 1-2 shift. The 2-3 shift is really mushy given the pressures meaning the 3-4 clutch is likely very tired.
2001 GMC Sierra 1500, LM7/4L60E. Customer is a decent DIY'er & a "Car guy".
Complaint P0300 & flashing check engine light.....Coils, Spark Plugs, & Injectors replaced, Valve covers pulled to inspect the valvetrain movement & valve spring breakage. Good static & dynamic compression test results.
He bought it recently with this issue already present think he could fix & flip it quick
Scan data showed history misfires on all the Bank 2 cylinders.....But #4 had 3 times the counts. Looked over the truck some more, It has long tube headers, No catalytic converters, & No rear O2 sensors meaning the PCM has been "tuned"
Switched over to fuel trim data.....Bank 2 LTFT is at 52% which I believe is a substituted value & the STFT was at Zero.
Bank 2 upstream O2 sensor was stuck at Zero VDC.
Bank 1 upstream O2 sensor was switching pretty good.
Both downstream were stuck at 447mV (GM bias voltage) because no sensors are present.
Unplugged the Bank 2 upstream O2 sensor & the voltage shot up to 447mV & the active misfires went away....Stayed in closed loop though.
Killed the engine & allowed to cool, KOEO....Bank 2 sensor still unplugged, All 4 PID's were at 447mV, Plugged back in the offending sensor & voltage dropped to Zero. Had a Denso sensor coming but wanted the prove it out.
All this is because the "Tuner" turned off ALL the oxygen sensor DTC's which pauses all kinds of self diagnostic routines!!!
Read the calibration file via HP Tuners to verify & was correct in my assumption.....Transmission pressure is also jacked to the max which was also observed on the test drive with a down right violet 1-2 shift. The 2-3 shift is really mushy given the pressures meaning the 3-4 clutch is likely very tired.
Continued.....
Back on long term projects, 1959 Willy's Wagon that a customer requested a S-10 Blazer frame & powertrain swap on. I advised against using the S-10 frame & IFS and reinforce/box the factory frame with High Pinion 9 inch Ford's & 4 Links or even a Dana 44/Dana 30 set-up on leafs....Both those quotes ended up higher than S-10 frame swap.
Got the Willy's body mocked up on the S-10 frame....Tacked direct using some scrap steel with no body mounts. Faced timed him to get approval to start on body mount fabrication & wiring.
Wiring progress....Ever wondered with a the electric shift transfer case harness looked like separated/standalone from a 2000 S-10 Blazer?
Back on long term projects, 1959 Willy's Wagon that a customer requested a S-10 Blazer frame & powertrain swap on. I advised against using the S-10 frame & IFS and reinforce/box the factory frame with High Pinion 9 inch Ford's & 4 Links or even a Dana 44/Dana 30 set-up on leafs....Both those quotes ended up higher than S-10 frame swap.
Got the Willy's body mocked up on the S-10 frame....Tacked direct using some scrap steel with no body mounts. Faced timed him to get approval to start on body mount fabrication & wiring.
Wiring progress....Ever wondered with a the electric shift transfer case harness looked like separated/standalone from a 2000 S-10 Blazer?