What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Done, Runs great! Hope it stays that way.
Last edited:
I was called out to a tired 2013 Prius V with all keys lost, fresh from the auctions destined for hack use 
Typical 2010s Toyota, with push button start and the capacitive door lock controls on the front door handles
The Lonsdor K518 Pro was utilized
After backing up Immo data through the OBD Port, I was able to generate an analog/simulation key, that turns the ignition on
After that, simply add a new key, took less than 5 minutes
A little jankier (language gaffs) in the UI compared to Autel, but unlike Autel, it worked
Unbranded, but sturdy plastic casings
Not cheap, but far cheaper than the ~$180 each the OE Toyota keys are
Always put a fresh quality battery, the off brand ones pre installed don't hold up
They didn't want me to send away for the emergency key cut, that's on them
Odd, considering all the auto key work I've been doing lately, I don't have the equipment or experience to cut a key
Pull the key code off the barrel, many eBay locksmiths will cut off the code/a picture and mail it to you
A thoroughly agreeable job, now featuring some profit
I'm making it a goal in 2025 to be more profitable, I've been giving far too much away for far too long
The owner called 3 locksmiths, all with varying degrees of song and dance that really meant they couldn't do it
My wretched local Toyota dealer wanted ~6 weeks and ~$1,500 for two new keys
All keys lost really ups the complications, and the price
If you're down to one key, get a spare ASAP
If you still have two, get a third, it's cheaper and easier trust me
Typical 2010s Toyota, with push button start and the capacitive door lock controls on the front door handles
The Lonsdor K518 Pro was utilized
After backing up Immo data through the OBD Port, I was able to generate an analog/simulation key, that turns the ignition on
After that, simply add a new key, took less than 5 minutes
A little jankier (language gaffs) in the UI compared to Autel, but unlike Autel, it worked
Unbranded, but sturdy plastic casings
Not cheap, but far cheaper than the ~$180 each the OE Toyota keys are
Always put a fresh quality battery, the off brand ones pre installed don't hold up
They didn't want me to send away for the emergency key cut, that's on them
Odd, considering all the auto key work I've been doing lately, I don't have the equipment or experience to cut a key
Pull the key code off the barrel, many eBay locksmiths will cut off the code/a picture and mail it to you
A thoroughly agreeable job, now featuring some profit
I'm making it a goal in 2025 to be more profitable, I've been giving far too much away for far too long
The owner called 3 locksmiths, all with varying degrees of song and dance that really meant they couldn't do it
My wretched local Toyota dealer wanted ~6 weeks and ~$1,500 for two new keys
All keys lost really ups the complications, and the price
If you're down to one key, get a spare ASAP
If you still have two, get a third, it's cheaper and easier trust me
Finally finished the front brakes on the '98 Ram.
My repair to the WSS was successful only in that the sensor really was bad (verified by DMM). Interestingly, it stopped throwing codes for the WSS and is now throwing a 65 for Main ABS Relay open. In most cases this means the ABS module needs to be repaired. I think it's interesting that a faulty module can tell when a WSS has failed. At one point the code 65 randomly went away in real time, then returned a few seconds later, further suggesting a schizophrenic module.
Replaced the battery hold down with these Amazon specials I've been ordering; they allegedly have stainless bolts and clip nuts
Old hold down, it actually looked a lot more "overgrown" before I disturbed it:
Then turned a few more trees. I made the three on the left, my wife made the four right.
My repair to the WSS was successful only in that the sensor really was bad (verified by DMM). Interestingly, it stopped throwing codes for the WSS and is now throwing a 65 for Main ABS Relay open. In most cases this means the ABS module needs to be repaired. I think it's interesting that a faulty module can tell when a WSS has failed. At one point the code 65 randomly went away in real time, then returned a few seconds later, further suggesting a schizophrenic module.
Replaced the battery hold down with these Amazon specials I've been ordering; they allegedly have stainless bolts and clip nuts
Old hold down, it actually looked a lot more "overgrown" before I disturbed it:
Then turned a few more trees. I made the three on the left, my wife made the four right.
2018 Colorado: oil change, replaced air filter & serp belt, fixed tailgate handle, and patched up the front splash shield for giggles. This was not worth the time but for as a fun distraction.
Before:
Stitching up, not all staples have yet been trimmed here:
Another small repair:
After
Before:
Stitching up, not all staples have yet been trimmed here:
Another small repair:
After
This was neat and I’m glad I did it.
I took the time to go through the outlets in the garage today, since they get used heavily and with power tools. The frequently used duplex was replaced with a quad, loaded with a better quality receptacle pair.
Then worked upstream to the GFI, and replaced it with a new Leviton unit.
So far, the builder’s electrician did it right, with shepherds hooks on the end of each wire, tightened by the screws, even if the option to use the press-in friction holes were available. They didn’t do this in the house, but someone seemed to pay attention in the garage.
But there was one more plug … the one in the ceiling for the door opener… and it was before the GFI, probably the first in the circuit. So I climbed up there and opened it up - and talk about the weakest link in the chain - they used the press-in friction holes on that one, carrying the full load of the garage.
I removed that outlet but didn’t have any more heavy duty outlets - so I wire-nutted the union with a pigtail joint out to a “better” grade receptacle at the outlet. I figured the well-twisted, pigtail union would offer more contact than the little daisy-chain sliver provided by the outlet, and wasnt wrong.
Without a doubt this work was an improvement. Lights don’t dim near as much when the compressor kicks in, and it comes up to speed almost effortlessly.
Very pleased with this one.
I took the time to go through the outlets in the garage today, since they get used heavily and with power tools. The frequently used duplex was replaced with a quad, loaded with a better quality receptacle pair.
Then worked upstream to the GFI, and replaced it with a new Leviton unit.
So far, the builder’s electrician did it right, with shepherds hooks on the end of each wire, tightened by the screws, even if the option to use the press-in friction holes were available. They didn’t do this in the house, but someone seemed to pay attention in the garage.
But there was one more plug … the one in the ceiling for the door opener… and it was before the GFI, probably the first in the circuit. So I climbed up there and opened it up - and talk about the weakest link in the chain - they used the press-in friction holes on that one, carrying the full load of the garage.
I removed that outlet but didn’t have any more heavy duty outlets - so I wire-nutted the union with a pigtail joint out to a “better” grade receptacle at the outlet. I figured the well-twisted, pigtail union would offer more contact than the little daisy-chain sliver provided by the outlet, and wasnt wrong.
Without a doubt this work was an improvement. Lights don’t dim near as much when the compressor kicks in, and it comes up to speed almost effortlessly.
Very pleased with this one.
Years ago I never understood the resistance (other than cost which really isn't that much) to LOTS of receptacles in a work space. Now with cordless tools I use 110 much less but I still experience anxiety when I have to hunt for an outlet -- it just drives me nuts and there's no excuse for it in my mind.
I also run 220 6-50Rs every ~4 feet and some people get inexplicably angry thinking that's stupid. I don't understand -- I want to be able to plug in my welders AND plasma anywhere in the shop
Oil change and brake inspection for the neighbor. Also needs TPMS sensors as well.
02 Silverado rear brake caliper inspection and lube.
Lubed pins and contact points with Permatex Orange Silicone grease.
One of the pads looked thinner than the rest so I used a gauge to find the pad thickness. Thinnest is 5mm thick.
Tool used: NAPA SER 3962
Lubed pins and contact points with Permatex Orange Silicone grease.
One of the pads looked thinner than the rest so I used a gauge to find the pad thickness. Thinnest is 5mm thick.
Tool used: NAPA SER 3962
NAPA seems to want ~$53 for the 3962 on their website right now, but the GW/KD 3962 is ~$16 on Amazon. I've got the GW set and a plastic set, but I like the metal GW more.
When I had an '02 Silverado 4x4 the only place I could find rear slider pin boots was a Brakeware kit from AutoZone. For some reason O'Reilly and NAPA sold me boots that were way different and simply did not fit. This was circa '07 though
I was called out to a tired 2013 Prius V with all keys lost, fresh from the auctions destined for hack use
Typical 2010s Toyota, with push button start and the capacitive door lock controls on the front door handles
The Lonsdor K518 Pro was utilized
After backing up Immo data through the OBD Port, I was able to generate an analog/simulation key, that turns the ignition on
After that, simply add a new key, took less than 5 minutes
A little jankier (language gaffs) in the UI compared to Autel, but unlike Autel, it worked
View attachment 255954
Unbranded, but sturdy plastic casings
Not cheap, but far cheaper than the ~$180 each the OE Toyota keys are
Always put a fresh quality battery, the off brand ones pre installed don't hold up
View attachment 255953
They didn't want me to send away for the emergency key cut, that's on them
Odd, considering all the auto key work I've been doing lately, I don't have the equipment or experience to cut a key
Pull the key code off the barrel, many eBay locksmiths will cut off the code/a picture and mail it to you
A thoroughly agreeable job, now featuring some profit
I'm making it a goal in 2025 to be more profitable, I've been giving far too much away for far too long
The owner called 3 locksmiths, all with varying degrees of song and dance that really meant they couldn't do it
My wretched local Toyota dealer wanted ~6 weeks and ~$1,500 for two new keys
All keys lost really ups the complications, and the price
If you're down to one key, get a spare ASAP
If you still have two, get a third, it's cheaper and easier trust me
I've been playing with
for the last several years. I lost a fob on the freeway when my not so smart Toyota started with the fob on it's roof. It wasn't until the travelling clanking from the roof and the "key not detected" chime, did I realize what I had done. The worst part? It would often not start with the fob IN the vehicle with the exact same message 
I guess I should start the process, I'll eventually PM you with some questions.
I posted earlier in this thread about successfully disabling TPMS in an '06 Expedition with Forscan.
For years I've been told you simply CANNOT disable TPMS in '04-08 F150s with Forscan, but after the '06 Expy I was even more determined. It had to be possible!!!
I finally stumbled on a post on the Forscan forum from 2019 saying to convert the first four of your IC ABD to binary, then flip either the 7th or 12th digit, and convert back to hex.
My first four were 0650. I first tried the 7th digit, resulting in 0450, but that seemed to do nothing. I then flipped the 12th, resulting in 0640. My TPMS light no longer proves out at initial KOEO, so I think that's VERY good!! I'll need to drive it ~20 miles uninterrupted to be sure because it always comes on at a certain point in my drive to town
For years I've been told you simply CANNOT disable TPMS in '04-08 F150s with Forscan, but after the '06 Expy I was even more determined. It had to be possible!!!
I finally stumbled on a post on the Forscan forum from 2019 saying to convert the first four of your IC ABD to binary, then flip either the 7th or 12th digit, and convert back to hex.
My first four were 0650. I first tried the 7th digit, resulting in 0450, but that seemed to do nothing. I then flipped the 12th, resulting in 0640. My TPMS light no longer proves out at initial KOEO, so I think that's VERY good!! I'll need to drive it ~20 miles uninterrupted to be sure because it always comes on at a certain point in my drive to town
I needed to change the oil in my 535d today but I talked myself into waiting and doing it on New Year's Day. One of these days I'm going to stop procrastinating..
For some reason, it was 65° and kinda sunny here 
Knocked out a quick oil change on the Camry
It's leaking pretty badly, I really gotta do that rear valve cover and cam+crank seals in the spring
Some of the little remaining Total 5w30 (where'd it all go
) and a D1 filter 
Quick diag on the neighbor's kid's girlfriend's '13 Elantra, an OEM Hyundai crank sensor has been ordered
Knocked out a quick oil change on the Camry
It's leaking pretty badly, I really gotta do that rear valve cover and cam+crank seals in the spring
Some of the little remaining Total 5w30 (where'd it all go
) and a D1 filter Quick diag on the neighbor's kid's girlfriend's '13 Elantra, an OEM Hyundai crank sensor has been ordered
You said it's leaking.It's leaking pretty badly, I really gotta do that rear valve cover and cam+crank seals in the spring
Some of the little remaining Total 5w30 (where'd it all go
It's fixed. Speedometer is working, transmission shifts properly and no overheat or slipping. The PO300 is no longer active.
Well ...I'm looking at an '04 Ranger 4x4. Both steering rack bellows are torn. The inner bellow clamps are buried in the front xmember.
I'm debating even mentioning it because it looks like I almost need to pull the whole rack to properly install metal inner clamps. I think I could get zip ties on the inners, but I HATE using zip ties on steering rack boots.
It feels like a waste of labor to move the whole rack just for boots, but a waste of parts to put in a whole new rack (of unk quality) just for boots. I think the smart move is wait until the rack legitimately fails then replace it all. 200k and this might be the original rack
I'm debating even mentioning it because it looks like I almost need to pull the whole rack to properly install metal inner clamps. I think I could get zip ties on the inners, but I HATE using zip ties on steering rack boots.
It feels like a waste of labor to move the whole rack just for boots, but a waste of parts to put in a whole new rack (of unk quality) just for boots. I think the smart move is wait until the rack legitimately fails then replace it all. 200k and this might be the original rack