I recently retrofitted copper tubing to an aftermarket mechanical OP gauge because a rodent thought the nylon looked delicious.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
I rebuilt the straight 6 in my 65 Mercury half ton in 1997, as a learning project. I had my dad for advice but mostly did it per the instructions in an old Motors truck manual. Detailed instructions on rebuilding the engine and 3 speed manual.
In 2007 I did the same on a neglected 93 Tercel, using a Haynes manual. These instructions were not nearly as good but I managed it.
Nowadays I’d probably also seek out detailed videos on YouTube. One thing I would also do is take very detailed photos and videos before starting.
Installed a new stinger to hook to my RV. Just got done with a short road trip to test the new AX15 I just put in. 91Yj 290k. It has been off the road for quite some time, finally felt physically able to get it done.
Where'd ya get the AX15?
Installed a dual channel dash cam in the xB
Tidied up auto dimming mirrors and remote start antenna wiring
Through the washer hose grommet, minimum exposed wire
Can hardly see it
I'll take it for a drive tomorrow, pull some video and see how it looks
Tidied up auto dimming mirrors and remote start antenna wiring
Through the washer hose grommet, minimum exposed wire
Can hardly see it
I'll take it for a drive tomorrow, pull some video and see how it looks
2004 Ranger, random stuff. New D35 pinion seal up front. I cheated it and replaced the nut about a tick mark past where it was. Hopefully this restores bearing preload and compensates for bearing wear. If this were the rear axle, I'd insist on teardown, new crush sleeve and inch-lb torque wrench action, but I feel comfortable trying to shortcut the front.
New 6203 in idler
New 1310 at front pinion
New 6203 in idler
New 1310 at front pinion
Ordered it through Summit, from Advance Adapters. Made by Aisin. Shipped from Japan, 6 months after I ordered it. Just got around to putting it in within the last few days....so over a year after I ordered it....mostly due to my injury. They did not send the right Pilot bearing of course, as mine is a 91, and this AX15 came with the thicker shaft, .750 instead of . 625..........
I think they have them now in stock............
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/add-26-ax15
it was 1700 and change when I got it.
I also had to order the external slave bellhousing, and kit, which was another 700 or so.
Like you said, earlier this thread, internal slaves suck.
That was really what I found to be wrong, but the tranny had 290k, and it was starting to be hard to shift, so I figured why not? Next will be engine one day........., likely a more fun and easier project than the tranny.
2004 Ranger 4.0 I also replaced just the LH valve cover gasket. This is the easier side and it's really not at all bad as modern cars go.
However I had a serious disagreement with the fuel line. Even after disconnecting from the fuel rail it needs to go up and it's retained by world's dumbest bracket. This stupid fuel line bracket vexed me for hours. Pro tip: just remove the entire EGR tube. You can come in from inner fender with 1-1/16" crow foot
The world's dumbest bracket looks like this, but comes with a small sheetmetal screw with the Phillips head facing the valve cover. The SHCS seen here was added by me after modifying for M6x10.
NOW you can remove the fuel line in the future as God intended (I also had to mount the bracket on an M6 stud as there was NO way I could hold the bracket to the head and start a bolt!!!)
However I had a serious disagreement with the fuel line. Even after disconnecting from the fuel rail it needs to go up and it's retained by world's dumbest bracket. This stupid fuel line bracket vexed me for hours. Pro tip: just remove the entire EGR tube. You can come in from inner fender with 1-1/16" crow foot
The world's dumbest bracket looks like this, but comes with a small sheetmetal screw with the Phillips head facing the valve cover. The SHCS seen here was added by me after modifying for M6x10.
NOW you can remove the fuel line in the future as God intended (I also had to mount the bracket on an M6 stud as there was NO way I could hold the bracket to the head and start a bolt!!!)
You dodged a bullet not ordering from High Gear Transmissions in TN. Those guys are a real feces-spectacle
Post in thread 'What are you working on today?' https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/what-are-you-working-on-today.331303/post-6620575
And yeah, I had pilot bearing issues, too. When I disassembled the vehicle someone was running the larger ID with the smaller input shaft. FOR A LONG TIME. So it's not really that critical, but I agree it should be done correctly. I went with a bushing, not a bearing.
1993 Volvo 240 Classic sedan, 246,346 miles
Front brake service, 26,000 miles since last rotors and pads. Rotors had warped. This is my wife’s daily.
Off and on: Ate rotors, CQ Wearever Gold Ceramic pads
Checked the wheel bearing cap. Filled half way with Delvac grease.
I plan to have my mechanic replace the grease in both front wheel bearings.
Front brake service, 26,000 miles since last rotors and pads. Rotors had warped. This is my wife’s daily.
Off and on: Ate rotors, CQ Wearever Gold Ceramic pads
Checked the wheel bearing cap. Filled half way with Delvac grease.
I plan to have my mechanic replace the grease in both front wheel bearings.
Seasonal OCIs on the neighbor's Highlander and QX60
Total 5w30 and Castrol Edge EP 0w20 respectively
I'm proud of my new labels
Interested to see how they'll hold up over 6 months
Dad's work issued '08 DGC has a permanent ESP/BAS light
Somewhere along its life, someone messed with the clock spring and installed it out of phase
Got the Lisle Mopar airbag removal tool in, worked reasonably well
Once you pull the wheel, it's freewheeling, so don't overdue it
I referenced live data to get it right, but it's got a orientation pin to the steering wheel, so you can only get it out in 360° increments
Looks like it needs one turn CCW
That's better
Reassembled, put it through some U/K turns, the SAS self calibrates on this design
One less warning light, on a Mopar that's a win
Oh, and some new battery terminals, starts much easier now
Total 5w30 and Castrol Edge EP 0w20 respectively
I'm proud of my new labels
Interested to see how they'll hold up over 6 months
Dad's work issued '08 DGC has a permanent ESP/BAS light
Somewhere along its life, someone messed with the clock spring and installed it out of phase
Got the Lisle Mopar airbag removal tool in, worked reasonably well
Once you pull the wheel, it's freewheeling, so don't overdue it
I referenced live data to get it right, but it's got a orientation pin to the steering wheel, so you can only get it out in 360° increments
Looks like it needs one turn CCW
That's better
Reassembled, put it through some U/K turns, the SAS self calibrates on this design
One less warning light, on a Mopar that's a win
Oh, and some new battery terminals, starts much easier now
First ripped in two with a circular saw. Little scary but new Diablo blade like butta. Tore and chiseled off old barkage.
Replaced the low beam, high beam and parking lamps in the LS430.
Some say to go through the fender liner. Others say to remove the lamp assembly. Still others say to remove stuff and go from behind the radiator support. I don't like prying and forcing stuff, so it was decided that the "easiest" for me is the third option.
Like any Toyota product, a 10 minute jobs turns into +1.5 hours.
I installed 5000k D2R low beam bulbs; the OEM were probably 4300K as the new lights appear whiter on the garage door. It's not yet sundown so I really can't comment on how the road is illuminated. There's definitely a color difference (old v. new) when the high beams are full on (not in DRL mode).
Driver side - Access after moving the fuse box, removing the ECU cover.
Passenger side - Access after removing the air filter box.
Headed for the trash bin (168 parking lamps not shown).
Some say to go through the fender liner. Others say to remove the lamp assembly. Still others say to remove stuff and go from behind the radiator support. I don't like prying and forcing stuff, so it was decided that the "easiest" for me is the third option.
Like any Toyota product, a 10 minute jobs turns into +1.5 hours.
I installed 5000k D2R low beam bulbs; the OEM were probably 4300K as the new lights appear whiter on the garage door. It's not yet sundown so I really can't comment on how the road is illuminated. There's definitely a color difference (old v. new) when the high beams are full on (not in DRL mode).
Driver side - Access after moving the fuse box, removing the ECU cover.
Passenger side - Access after removing the air filter box.
Headed for the trash bin (168 parking lamps not shown).
Did the waterpump in my Trailblazer. Original went out around 2013 at 130,000km. Chinese Napa got me to 272,000km. Couldn't find OE anywhere so got another China pump from the dealer. Took me two hours.
Did seasonal tire rotation from summers -> winters (on seperate rims) on my wife’s 2016 Mazda CX-5. She doesn’t drive it to much, 108K kms since new. Also changed oil (Kirkland 0W20 4.5L and OEM filter). Also did spark plugs, OEM NGKs from Rock Auto. Didn’t realise I needed a 3/8”/14mm spark plug socket, so had to whip out to Canadian Tire and buy the last one they had for $8.99 CAD. Worked perfectly. The old plugs looked pretty good in my opinion.
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