What are you working on today?

Silverado engine mount replacement.
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Had to remove the starter to remove the passenger side which I had to remove the dipstick to pull the starter out of the way. Upon reassembly I lost the dipstick mount bolt. So onto the junkyard for a bolt and misc parts.

Some squarebodies at the junkyard. None of these trucks were in collisions.
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Hardbody
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Mazda B2200 / 'Burb
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That red interior in a late 80's/early 90's GMC RCSB pickup.
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Snag the carpet and sill panels out of the GMC. Dash is busted, or else it would be worth snagging. Someone's already made off with the seat. Nice ones for those trucks that don't need recovering are fetching $300+ in my area. Nice dashes $150+. These are the new classic Chevy trucks.
 
Silverado engine mount replacement.
View attachment 238350

Had to remove the starter to remove the passenger side which I had to remove the dipstick to pull the starter out of the way. Upon reassembly I lost the dipstick mount bolt. So onto the junkyard for a bolt and misc parts.

Some squarebodies at the junkyard. None of these trucks were in collisions.
View attachment 238351

Hardbody
View attachment 238352

Mazda B2200 / 'Burb
View attachment 238353

That red interior in a late 80's/early 90's GMC RCSB pickup.
View attachment 238354
Ford loved that red around '84-88 (approx). Pretty sure the option sheet spec'd it as Whorehouse Red (or should have)
 
Today I have a 30 ft dead ash hung up in the trees. Cut it off about 4 ft up. Now need to tie a rope to the base and try and pull it down and out.

Also have a dead ash that fell but the top hung up about three years ago. It's been hanging over a path way with only a huge poison ivy vine holding it up. Going to cut it to pieces and let it roll down the bank.
 
Cleaned the inside of the wheelsmon my 3500 as its got a bit of a highway vibration. Not packed but some dirt and dust oddly built up.

Aired the tires down as we are done with the heavy tows and not hitching up for another two weeks. 70psi front and 75 rear. Tows good but a bit "sharp" unloaded.

Seeing as its 166,000km, I pulled the easiest access shock out back. Still takes decent effort to push in but not overly fast on return. At least it returns.... a set of 4600s are in the near future.

Found a touch of ball joint play up front, now on both sides. That too has to be addressed. EMF?
 
Cleaned the inside of the wheelsmon my 3500 as its got a bit of a highway vibration. Not packed but some dirt and dust oddly built up.

Aired the tires down as we are done with the heavy tows and not hitching up for another two weeks. 70psi front and 75 rear. Tows good but a bit "sharp" unloaded.

Seeing as its 166,000km, I pulled the easiest access shock out back. Still takes decent effort to push in but not overly fast on return. At least it returns.... a set of 4600s are in the near future.

Found a touch of ball joint play up front, now on both sides. That too has to be addressed. EMF?

Take them down further.....I ran 60psi front & 40psi rear on my '06 Duramax 2500 when empty.
 
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Rebuilt a cylinder in my 2-post and installed one new rear shock on my F150. It's a beater so I just replaced the one shock that was blown from my stash of leftover shocks from suspension jobs like lift kits etc.

The '04-08 F150s walk really badly if the rear shocks aren't in good condition
 
Good thing I fixed my lift yesterday :D
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Had family over this weekend. Insurance repaired our roof this week. The repair seemed to stir up 2 large wasp nests in the attic over the eaves. Then the septic tank backed up, with company here. Opened up the tank, “fished” out the filter to the drain field and cleaned it. That worked (first time I’ve done this).

Then attempted to spray wasps from the exterior with no lasting effect. Received little confidence from pest control calls. Headed into the attic at nightfall and unleashed a few cans of raid. It must have rained 60 wasps outside between both nests.

Nests were busy again the next day, so, emboldened, I attempted a day strike in the attic. The first nest went well. The second - I was able to fend off the direct assault but they flanked me to the left. I was flattened out on rafters with poor mobility. When they got too close for a stream, I switched cans to a misting fogger. Know your ammo. No stings, but man that was close. Diametric Earth powder and bellows are on order.
 
PM service for my truck. Oil change HPL 5w40 premium cold climate, both filters, fuel filters and air filter. Air filter definitely did its job on the dirt roads this year.

Ordered DCR pump conversion to delete the CP4. Found a little metal in the primary fuel filter so not going to take any chances.

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Yesterday
1998 Dodge Ram 1500
Replaced idle air control valve, power steering pressure hose, blower motor

2010 Nissan Cube
Replaced front brake rotors and pads, rotated tires, changed oil
 
He wanted the deck repaired on the basket case Cub Cadet. He had torn, folded, and then folded again this little piece at the discharge. I think without a "guardrail" there he was finding he'd catch the deck a lot more on uneven terrain
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I tried to peel it back into place, but that was a lost cause. Plus what was formerly a U-channel of sheetmetal would never be strong enough. For being a premium machine these decks are lightweight.

So I broke out my V1.0 SWAG-upgraded tubing roller I haven't used in years and rolled some 3/4" solid stock:
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Now if he catches this he's guaranteed to just rip the deck where it's welded on. Not my problem, I can only do so much.
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Replaced front and rear brake pads and rotors on the CRV. Also the rear passenger caliper over the weekend. This caliper gave me issues last change 3 years ago. I used the power stop coated kit. Used 3M silicone paste to lube the pins/pad ears.

One of the front driver side slide pin was seized. Had to use the torch to remove. Was not prepared, the small bushing at the end broke off. Had to fish it out of the caliper. Boot is still fine, but I ordered new slide pins/boots today.

Been lazy with the relubing and lesson learned.
 
Started downloading repair and other documentation for the LS430 from TIS. I've found that (at least with old Toyotas), the electrical wiring diagrams are the most valuable.
 
Got my wood chipper yesterday and spent an hour unpacking it. Nice crate and I wanted to save it. Doesn't look difficult to assemble other than the weight of things. The chutes just hook and latch on. So only the axles, wheel and drawbar are in need of much assembly.

Engine has two dipsticks! Has a low oil shut off in it. Still haven't found the oil fill hole. Had to go for a eye appointment.
 
Got my wood chipper yesterday and spent an hour unpacking it. Nice crate and I wanted to save it. Doesn't look difficult to assemble other than the weight of things. The chutes just hook and latch on. So only the axles, wheel and drawbar are in need of much assembly.

Engine has two dipsticks! Has a low oil shut off in it. Still haven't found the oil fill hole. Had to go for a eye appointment.
You just pour the oil in the hopper ;)
 
1974 Chevrolet Corvette
Replaced upper radiator hose, refilled radiator, changed oil

2009 Buick Lucerne
Replaced steering rack, flushed steering system, changed oil
 
I've NEVER liked how Dodge 318/360 distributor caps seat. It always seems vague.

Just went through a mini-saga with what I believe was a poorly fitting MasterPro cap on a '99. Was getting strange misfire behavior and found the cap was loose on the right side.

It seems the spacing of the screw holes was off and one would try to cross thread and then appear tight prematurely. I believe this because the problem persisted even after I chased the distributor threads and replaced one cap screw with a SHCS.
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I could run the screws in with my fingertips EASILY, but once the cap was on the RH one would go a few turns and just STOP. I finally opened up the hole in the cap to 1/4" (M5 fastener) to alllow greater misalignment and it fit.

The cap no longer rocks and it seems to idle better.
 
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