I think for one axle is around 10-12k usd. Could be wrong though
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
I watched a vid where the guy did it and didn't even remove the airbox (I recommend removing the airbox, which I did) and acted like it wasn't a big deal.Appreciate the heads up. You've made sure I won't ever do one
As I said, everything fought me. Getting the belt between the fan pulley and the crank is a feat in itself.
Then I needed three hands to actually get the belt on: one to pull the tensioner ALL the way, and two to wrestle the belt onto the alternator. The water pump seems like a safer bet because it's smooth with no lip so you need less slack, but it's harder to access behind the fan shroud.
I couldn't have my serp tool (which is just a piece of flat bar) up top because it came between the fan shroud and alternator pulley, meaning I'd have to twist the belt as space as minimal.
I'm sure there's a better way, but it was just one of those days......
Definitely not a belt I'd want to try to replace on the roadside!
Still chasing cooling issues on the 05 Chevy Express 6.0L. Heated up fast climbing some steep slow hills and at slower speeds. It normal does up to 205 but now it’s climbing to 240. Fine at speed. Noticed I wasn't hearing the fan roar like I normally would. Went ahead and changed rhe fan clutch since this one had 70k+ on it. Got a Hayden severe duty, have to say the casting looks terrible.. I’d bet it won’t last long. Pulling alot of air now even at idle at least. Started this after changing the water pump.. don’t know how likely its a bad pump but I know my luck.
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Today at work was decently busy. Fuel pump recall on new Tundra, second key programmed to that as well. Next 2015 Sienna, two tires, alignment, tag light, new headlight assemblies, blower motor and brakes all around on it. Next, 2021 RAV4 seat frame. Sienna is currently in my bay still because have to wait on the blower motor. Should be in first thing tomorrow.
Rest of the time I was on the tool trucks lol. Matco and Mac Wednesday at our shop.
Rest of the time I was on the tool trucks lol. Matco and Mac Wednesday at our shop.
After the fan clutch worked on Ole Red. Took the CVT housing off and cleaned all the grease out roller housing. Conflicting info if needs to be greased or dry. Guessing it was the factory but sure seemed in good shape for being 40 years old. Changed the gear lube also. Was fresh went I bought it at 400 miles but sure looked terrible. Swapped the 115 main jet for a 105, ride it a few days and see how it runs. Adjusted the auto oiler, was coming on before the carb even opened.
Nest 3rd gen battery decided it had enough. AC was short cycling and barely cooling the house. Got the common wire ran in record time before the person going through”m” got home. Everybody will survive today. Should of ran it back when I installed it.
Yes. And it always happens in the hottest or coldest weather.
Spread mulch earlier today then got rid of old concrete sidewalk pieces.
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Dealt with the idiot lube tech at work. Car (2024 RAV4) towed back in from side of interstate 81 with 4 loose wheels. Removed lug nuts and found all the studs had stretched and were slathered in anti seize and had been way over tightened. Every single one of them snapped off when trying to remove them except one which was stretched. He tightened them down on his full speed setting Matco impact gun and then went over them with a torque wrench. So 20 lug studs and lug nuts later. Car was back on the road. Worst part is 5,000 miles only on car. We had to get the studs from one AutoZone location, two Advance Auto locations and two O’Reilly locations to find all of them in town. Thank goodness this guys last day is Friday of next week. Had to order the black lug nuts currently put chrome back on so customer could get the car back. He tried to blame his partner for it all but he always does that. He asked the manager to speak in his office so they did and apparently from what we heard is that he said he was the most qualified tech in the shop to do anything and that he doesn’t make mistakes and blamed everything on his partner. He was mad that the boss would not let him replace the studs. Personally I don’t have respect for someone that doesn’t own up to something they did. I’ve tried gently explaining to this guy that I am willing to help him out to which I got a similar response about him being mister perfect. I still can’t understand why this guy still works here.
Also done a warranty fog light on a 2024 Tacoma with 800 miles. Such a stupid design. Needless to say I think I need a beer this weekend lol. These are the only two pictures I took of the Tacoma but it was much more labor intensive than it looks. It pays 1.9 hours warranty time. Took me 2.4 hours to do but it was a learning experience. Needless to say won’t be volunteering to do that again lol.
Also done a warranty fog light on a 2024 Tacoma with 800 miles. Such a stupid design. Needless to say I think I need a beer this weekend lol. These are the only two pictures I took of the Tacoma but it was much more labor intensive than it looks. It pays 1.9 hours warranty time. Took me 2.4 hours to do but it was a learning experience. Needless to say won’t be volunteering to do that again lol.
I had a ‘14 Lexus GS. The whole bumper comes off. Volvo s60 was the same way, as was my wife’s ‘15CRV. The Lexus cover seemed a little harder to get off and on right. No, I take that back - Volvo was more complex. But yes. It was much easier and quicker the 2nd and 3rd time.
Motor mounts on '95 ZJ with 5.2.
Old vs new:
Used an F-clamp to pull the motor over. Worked really well.
With the 5.2 in the ZJ platform there's not really a straight shot at the front half of the oil pan. You could disconnect the drag link and maybe one end of the tie rod, but I opted to build a little floor jack adapter with scrap lying around. It's not pretty but it worked perfectly.
I also did the cap & rotor and WOW that's tight. Had to disconnect a throttle bracket just to (barely) slip the cap out from under the cowl.
On the bright side I had the front wheels off for brakes and just dropped the whole nose until the rotors almost kissed the concrete. Made for nice access to the distributor -- er as nice as a rear-mount distributor can be
Old vs new:
Used an F-clamp to pull the motor over. Worked really well.
With the 5.2 in the ZJ platform there's not really a straight shot at the front half of the oil pan. You could disconnect the drag link and maybe one end of the tie rod, but I opted to build a little floor jack adapter with scrap lying around. It's not pretty but it worked perfectly.
I also did the cap & rotor and WOW that's tight. Had to disconnect a throttle bracket just to (barely) slip the cap out from under the cowl.
On the bright side I had the front wheels off for brakes and just dropped the whole nose until the rotors almost kissed the concrete. Made for nice access to the distributor -- er as nice as a rear-mount distributor can be
It boggles the mind that management wouldn’t immediately terminate this guy. I guess at least he’s on his way out…
Checking up on things on my new to me Lx570. Checked everything previous owner did as far as fluid changes=they did what they said.=good
Did a drain and fill on the tranny, as there is no dipstick to check fluid condition.
Re made a ground from the tcase to the body, and body to frame, just for good measure, there was noticeable corrosion on the factory ground strap. nowhere else, weird.
Did a drain and fill on the tranny, as there is no dipstick to check fluid condition.
Re made a ground from the tcase to the body, and body to frame, just for good measure, there was noticeable corrosion on the factory ground strap. nowhere else, weird.
Installing a Strut Masters conversion kit on the neighbor's '07 XJ8. I'm not sure why they're having me do the swap, the air suspension works just fine other than the front end stuck high one time. I guess the owner just doesn't feel like dealing with it down the road.
Priming repaired eave corners
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I picked up a small trailer for a song. I took the longest trailer available to me at 24' deck.
With a ball mount I've adapted to the bucket I shoved it on then transported with the bucket above the trailer.
The most interesting part was having to widen the ramp spacing for the trailer then narrow it for the tractor. All in all, it went smoothly with no big surprises.
Also before dragging the trailer onto the road this morning I figured out why the right taillights weren't working:
With a ball mount I've adapted to the bucket I shoved it on then transported with the bucket above the trailer.
The most interesting part was having to widen the ramp spacing for the trailer then narrow it for the tractor. All in all, it went smoothly with no big surprises.
Also before dragging the trailer onto the road this morning I figured out why the right taillights weren't working:
Dump run or moving? Hard to tell. 
