What are you working on today?

1000002598.jpg


Tore into the $50 mower project I dragged home from work. It's a 2010ish Husqvarna with a 54" deck, little over 500 hours. The original 25 horse Kohler locked up, but the rest of the machine is in beautiful shape so I took a chance.

It's getting a 22 horse Kawasaki that a stole from an X354 at work. They said I could just have it, so why not! The engine lined right up, throttle cables work, and the wiring was a breeze. I just need to run to the hardware store and grab a length of 5/16 fuel hose as the fuel pump is on the opposite side on the Kawi.

So far, I've run into 2 issues, one I expected and one I was unsure on. 1: the exhaust from the JD won't work at all. It fits for testing, but that's all. It looks like Husqvarna used the same muffler for all the YTH models, just different L/R pipes depending on whether it came with a Briggs, Kohler, or Kawi from the factory. The pipes run ~$20 each, so no big deal. 2: the crankshaft on the Kohler is 1 1/8" x 4.5". The Kawi is 1" x 3". Quick look to eBay and I have an adapter on the way.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the thing when I'm done with it, I don't need a 54" mower at home, my 42" is fine. I'm thinking I'll throw it for sale for $650 and take the first $500 that's offered. It was more meant to be a fun project than a money maker.
 
Last edited:
View attachment 227175

Tore into the $50 mower project I dragged home from work. It's a 2010ish Husqvarna with a 54" deck, little over 500 hours. The original 25 horse Kohler locked up, but the rest of the machine is in beautiful shape so I took a chance.

It's getting a 22 horse Kawasaki that a stole from an X354 at work. They said I could just have it, so why not! The engine lined right up, throttle cables work, and the wiring was a breeze. I just need to run to the hardware store and grab a length of 5/16 fuel hose as the fuel pump is on the opposite side on the Kawi.

So far, I've run into 2 issues, one I expected and one I was unsure on. 1: the exhaust from the JD won't work at all. It fits for testing, but that's all. It looks like Husqvarna used the same muffler for all the YTH models, just different L/R pipes depending on whether it came with a Briggs, Kohler, or Kawi from the factory. The pipes run ~$20 each, so no big deal. 2: the crankshaft on the Kohler is 1 1/8" x 4.5". The Kawi is 1" x 3". Quick look to eBay and I have an adapter on the way.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the thing when I'm done with it, I don't need a 54x mower at home, my 42" is fine. I'm thinking I'll throw it for sale for $650 and take the first $500 that's offered. It was more meant to be a fun project than a money maker.
I thought you were running your own shop now?
 
Yesterday
1975 Chevrolet Caprice
Replaced front and rear shocks, pan drop and filter change on the transmission, changed engine oil

Today
2007 Honda Fit
Replaced belt idler pulley and serpentine belt
 
Changed the oil in the RV and Dakota. Well actually had my 16 year old changed the Dakota, fun to watch the novice as oil creeps down to his arm pit 😂 The old 3.9L sure is making a lot of bottom end noise for 102k.

Flushed the PS on the RV with Lubeguard synthetic. Still sounds like a supercharger but the brakes and ps still work fine… debating on changing it. Might just order one to have it.

Ordered a brake master cylinder for the Escape and started lubing the bleeders. The others I’ve had go bad was all the way the floor. This one is gradual as you set at a light.
 
Ordered two inexpensive fobs for my neighbor's GMT400 and programmed them. They work, but you have to be pretty deliberate in pressing the buttons. Maybe they'll break in, or maybe they'll just get worse.

At least we know the keyless entry can work now (it's never worked for him)

I also hopped into the programming side and disabled the alarm altogether. It would honk after unlocking with the key then opening the door. He simply doesn't need anti-theft given our locale and the age and condition of the vehicle
20240627_190628.webp
 
Tried to wrap up the 10 C300 that has been sitting outside.

New battery. Installed a new vent elbow since it was missing.
IMG_9543.webp


Replaced both rear shocks and the RF strut with new Monroe electronic assemblies. The LF was
replaced 30k ago.

RF strut was hemorrhaging and the RR was leaking.

IMG_9536.webp

IMG_9537.webp

IMG_9547.webp
 
My work on my project SHO are back on the track after i received a big shipment of parts from RockAuto, since i have to import all the parts from US it took a quite a while too (i live in Norway). There are a lot of task to do to this engine so today i chose to remove the intake manifold to gain access to valve covers as the gaskets leaked oil down spark plug holes on both banks. Managed to replace gaskets on both sides before i got tired and gave up for today, went to drink some beer. Also a bit amaized how clean this 31 year old engine is inside. And if anyone want to know, the engine has been removed in order to change the broken automatic transmission, and yes on original SHO you either have to drop the subframe or remove whole engine assembly to do that.
20240629_174017.webp
20240629_174026.webp
20240629_174031.webp
20240629_174035.webp
 
Removed the piggyback device from the Highlander DLC (OBD).

20240629_134421_rsized.webp


Typical, low level workmanship tell-tales that someone was under dash before me.

20240629_133041_resized.webp

Missing 6mm flange nut.

20240629_133142_resized_annotated.webp

Hush panel not snapped into place. The boot looks suspicious too.

20240629_133502_resized_annotated.webp

Out comes the device.

20240629_133738_resized_annotoated.webp
 
My work on my project SHO are back on the track after i received a big shipment of parts from RockAuto, since i have to import all the parts from US it took a quite a while too (i live in Norway). There are a lot of task to do to this engine so today i chose to remove the intake manifold to gain access to valve covers as the gaskets leaked oil down spark plug holes on both banks. Managed to replace gaskets on both sides before i got tired and gave up for today, went to drink some beer. Also a bit amaized how clean this 31 year old engine is inside. And if anyone want to know, the engine has been removed in order to change the broken automatic transmission, and yes on original SHO you either have to drop the subframe or remove whole engine assembly to do that. View attachment 227588View attachment 227589View attachment 227590View attachment 227591
I wasn't aware there was an automatic transmission available. Manuals are way better!
 
My 2001 Mustang GT..

Pulled out the 8.8 and installed a BMR torque box reinforcement kit which included bracing that bolts into the frame. BMR upper and lower spherical end control arms, UPR spherical diff bushings, Russell stainless steel brake lines (do not recommend them), Eibach front and rear sway bars, new rear brake pads and rotors, rebuilt the hydroboost, removed Eibach Pro-Kit springs due to their stiff ride and installed and painted cut factory springs (springs are linear before you get your panty’s in a bunch) and added Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates. I’m still tinkering on it today (finishing touches and double checking things) but I’ve been on it for about a month and taking my sweet, sweet time. Still got more to do! Car has been on the back burner for the last 8 years because well, life happened and it happened at 100 mph with no brakes to my avail..
IMG_6605.jpeg


IMG_6432.jpeg


IMG_6669.jpeg
 
I wasn't aware there was an automatic transmission available. Manuals are way better!
Not to begin with no, but to increase sales numbers updated SHO (mk 2) featured automatic transmission to satisfy the need. Fun fact, auto SHO`s had 3.2 litre engine while manual transmission kept 3.0 litre version. I agree that manual was better in any way, both in reliability and performance. I wish i had manual version, but Taurus and even SHO version are just as rare as a unicorn in my part of the world.
 
My 2001 Mustang GT..

Pulled out the 8.8 and installed a BMR torque box reinforcement kit which included bracing that bolts into the frame. BMR upper and lower spherical end control arms, UPR spherical diff bushings, Russell stainless steel brake lines (do not recommend them), Eibach front and rear sway bars, new rear brake pads and rotors, rebuilt the hydroboost, removed Eibach Pro-Kit springs due to their stiff ride and installed and painted cut factory springs (springs are linear before you get your panty’s in a bunch) and added Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates. I’m still tinkering on it today (finishing touches and double checking things) but I’ve been on it for about a month and taking my sweet, sweet time. Still got more to do! Car has been on the back burner for the last 8 years because well, life happened and it happened at 100 mph with no brakes to my avail..
View attachment 227620

View attachment 227621

View attachment 227622
Wow! That thing is CLEAN!
 
My 2001 Mustang GT..

Pulled out the 8.8 and installed a BMR torque box reinforcement kit which included bracing that bolts into the frame. BMR upper and lower spherical end control arms, UPR spherical diff bushings, Russell stainless steel brake lines (do not recommend them), Eibach front and rear sway bars, new rear brake pads and rotors, rebuilt the hydroboost, removed Eibach Pro-Kit springs due to their stiff ride and installed and painted cut factory springs (springs are linear before you get your panty’s in a bunch) and added Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates. I’m still tinkering on it today (finishing touches and double checking things) but I’ve been on it for about a month and taking my sweet, sweet time. Still got more to do! Car has been on the back burner for the last 8 years because well, life happened and it happened at 100 mph with no brakes to my avail..
View attachment 227620

View attachment 227621

View attachment 227622

I have a 93.. Cool to see they still use that puke green Chassis Paint! 🤣
 
My 2001 Mustang GT..

Pulled out the 8.8 and installed a BMR torque box reinforcement kit which included bracing that bolts into the frame. BMR upper and lower spherical end control arms, UPR spherical diff bushings, Russell stainless steel brake lines (do not recommend them), Eibach front and rear sway bars, new rear brake pads and rotors, rebuilt the hydroboost, removed Eibach Pro-Kit springs due to their stiff ride and installed and painted cut factory springs (springs are linear before you get your panty’s in a bunch) and added Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates. I’m still tinkering on it today (finishing touches and double checking things) but I’ve been on it for about a month and taking my sweet, sweet time. Still got more to do! Car has been on the back burner for the last 8 years because well, life happened and it happened at 100 mph with no brakes to my avail..
View attachment 227620

View attachment 227621

View attachment 227622
Really nice work there......
It is just amazing the amount of brakes, cooling systems, exhaust and suspension parts and upgrades available to folks these days. A lot of that kind of good stuff for sale today was near impossible for us to get years ago unless you made it yourself in the shop. Good for you. Looks like well on the way to a really good driver/rider.
 
It has been warmer here lately and I have been noticing that my truck is running warmer than it did last year. Nothing overheating wise, but the temp gauge has been creeping up more than I ever recall.I know they aren't the most accurate gauge, but my cluster has been rebuilt and isn't some failing 20 y/o stepper motors. Just seemed like something wasn't right. So I replaced the thermostat and water pump thinking maybe something is up. No change. Unfortunately all I could get/had on hadn't was a Motorad Ultrastat and a Gates pump.

Back to the drawing board. Did some looking back and noticed that the radiator I put in it back in Feb 2023, during the motor swap, was a 1" core. Looking up different available options, there is a 1-5/16" core with and without engine oil cooler. So I started thinking... maybe the core is too thin? Maybe the radiator is clogging up? Looking in my coolant bottle, I did see some sediment. Also, my radiator hoses are at least 7-years old and some OE. So I pulled the trigger and refreshed the entire cooling system. A few weeks ago, I went to the junkyard and pulled off of a 2010 Tahoe PPV a 7/9 blade 700w K5L heavy duty cooling fan assembly. So I decided to complement them with everything else a K5L heavy duty cooling vehicle would have.

New Gates hoses on everything, new heater hoses, new GM spring clamps (looked up a 2020 Savanah van and bough all the clamps listed for that)... got rid of the worm drive clamps on some things. New GM water pump, new GM thermostat, new coolant bottle, new Denso 1-5/16" core radiator (with engine oil cooler). I figured, if I am putting a radiator in it, it would be cool to have oil cooler lines. So I bought GM oil cooler lines for a Escalade -- wasn't too bad to do once you pull the front driveshaft and lower the front diff a few inches. Used a M8 flange bolt to bolt the line holder to the boss on the block. Even bought the $4 plastic line holder to secure the cooler lines to the back of the fan assembly. Replaced the AC tensioner as that was weak,

Flushed the block and heater core with the garden hose, blew both out as much as I could with the air hose. Filled up with Dexcool concentrate + distilled water aand drove it around a bit. Temps stay excellent. Then again today I drained the radiator and filled with fresh coolant just to cycle through any of the tap water I had in there. I'm not terribly concerned. I may do another drain and fill in a few weeks

Man am I beat, but pleased with the results. Might sound dumb but I am happy to have the additional oil cooling and happy with how cool it is staying. I love how it looks completely factory with the plastic clip and everything. Amazing. Will help when we travel/tow the trailers.

Additionally, with looking at the old radiator, 1/2 of it was gummed up with oily dirt/sediment on the exterior. Shortly after installing that rad (Feb 2023) had a power steering line come off and it sprayed oil everywhere. Perhaps this was also a contributing factor to its decreased efficiency.

One last thing, when I was under the truck, I found a ground that was repaired by a previous mechanic with a horrible crimp ring terminal. Was green and crusty and something that would completely cheeze-me-off when it fails in the middle of winter. Cut it back to clean, new crimp and seal weatherproof ring terminal and a liberal coating of Fluid Film. Glad to have found that.

1719780319730.webp


1719780334360.webp


1719780347638.webp


1719780558817.webp
 
Got the replacement clamp put on. I was wondering why this one came loose and disappeared vs the drivers side but looking at while working on this one I remembered I had to cut the nuts off that bracket since the threads were bad. Used a nylon insert nut on that side. Used red loctite on these so hopefully won’t have to spend another $100+

Replaced the Escapes brake master cylinder.. should have got a lottery ticket.. all the bladders came loose on our rustiest vehicle. No fluid came out of any bleeder till after the new one went on, strange. Did a few others things like dump the black and grey water on the rv, and the freshwater from the trip. Going to put a little bleach in it for the next trip.

IMG_3656.webp
 
Back
Top Bottom