What are you working on today?

Didn't work in the shop today. Instead I helped the boss replace a water heater at one of his rental houses
 
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Just got done with a 4 wheel brake job on a friend's 2007 Tahoe. Used 4 new Wagner rotors, Raybestos Element 3 pads, 2 brand new Raybestos rear calipers and Raybestos brake hose. All went well until the test drive, and I find both rear brakes are dragging. After some time figuring this out, found that the brackets on the calipers must have a machining error. The spot face where the caliper brackets bolt on to the car appear to be not quite 90 degrees to the caliper slide pins. The caliper sits slightly cocked over the rotors. This caused the outer pad to drag on the rotor on the outer diameter and the inner pad drags on the rotors inner diameter. Same problem on both calipers.
Could have seen this earlier but the rotor spun ok with the wheels off. Once the wheels are installed the rotors are set in the correct position, and they drag. Should have turned the wheels by hand before I put the car down.
Fixed this by cleaning up the old caliper brackets and reusing them.
All the parts used have made in China on the boxes. Lesson learned.
 
Ran over to my non-profit to fix a sleeved gate hinge that had failed. I was able to slit some 1-1/4" pipe and get it in place, then weld up with my cordless Hobart (there's no power on the hill). Above the ground clamp:
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Our '87 F150 feeding truck isn't starting and I at least narrowed it down to no spark. I'll mess around with coil (maybe) and TFI (most likely) tomorrow.

Then decided to say hi to our newest girl. She's incredibly sweet but was an owner surrender. Came to us with a broken right rear leg. Our vet said it was shattered by a pipe or a bat based upon x-ray. AFAIC our vet is the Eric O or clinebarger of vets and she said amputation was the best option, so this girl is recovering in our "hospital pen." She'll get a nice big enclosure in time and no one will ever hurt her again.

Trying to cobble together E-collars for wolves and wolf-dogs is.......amusing.
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Then said hello to a few more of our ~50 critters :D Most of this fencing was built by me, welding horse panel to steel frames. We don't really care for chain link.
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Phew a day on the 2005 Tahoe.

New lower ball joints - Mevotech TTX
New ACDelco Height Correction torsion bar keys
New torsion bar crossmember bushings - Energy Suspension (for the 07+ 2500/3500, they fit well)
New sway bar (front and rear) bushings - MOOG
New front sway bar end links - Mevotech TTX
New rear sway bar end links - MOOG
New rear pan hard bar - MOOG
New rear upper and lower control arms - MOOG
New front and rear bump stops - ACDelco
New rear springs and (4) new insulators - MOOG

Definitely corrected ride height. The driver front corner was the worst for sag. What a quiet ride, that of which is now super compliant. Truck feels 100% different.

So with all of the above, and the new upper control arms and inner and outer tie rod ends in December, and steering gear, idler, wheel bearings and steering shaft in early-mid 2023… I think I have replaced just about everything to replace. Still better than a $600 truck payment.

Time to just drive it.

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Slow progress but progress on the Kubota d722, cut one engine support bar so it doesnt hit the flywheel and drilled 2 new holes. Hoping to make much more progress Saturday by rewelding the other half of the support bar (kind of in the middle rear) back on. Welding is brand new to me but have done a bit of self study and should have everything I need.

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This is Brandon, our '87 F150 feeding vehicle. He's treated with all the apathy you'd expect from unpaid volunteers.

Brandon often stumbles a bit, runs rough, has conversations with dead vehicles and fabricates stories altogether. Today he got confused and failed to fire on all cylinders-- or any cylinders for that matter. A new TFI module fixed him up for now.

I often wonder if keeping him in service is elder abuse, but with a front Detroit and rear LockRite he actually doesn't fall when climbing our steep north-facing hill. For now I'll keep Brandon running and we'll see what happens. I wonder if he can make it another five years?
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2007 Lincoln MKX 3.5 V6
Replaced valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, ignition coils, upper plenum seals, air filter and changed oil.

This job did not go smoothly. The valve cover gasket kit came with oil control solenoid seals that were too small to fit over the solenoids, so had to order another pair of them from Napa. The valve covers did not want to unseal from the heads. I had to have help getting them to break loose. The spark plug tube seals didn't fit the valve covers well, but I was able to make them work.

Junk. Junk parts, junk car, just junk. Glad it's over
 
My Mini project threw a code in my check out before assembling the front end bumper cover. Engine coolant temp sensor was reading -40*F. So I swapped it from the unknown sensor included, as I reported before.

Still got the reading. I remember that the connector was loose when going on, so I checked it. Still loose. But I noticed a piece of broken plastic in it that I removed. Plugged it back in and still no reading.

In my analysis of the connector I realized that the plastic piece I removed was the remaining connection piece that slid into and held the pins to the wires. The connector was shot. I started to see if anyone had a repair piece locally but then realized I still had an engine wiring harness I bought last year for the oxygen sensor connector, that I was keeping just in case.

Checked the harness, found an intact connection and snipped and spliced it in. Clicked in and now I get coolant temperatures. 👌

No more codes, now runs and purrs like new. Now I can complete it and drive it once again - except today I need to bring my trailer across the state to recover my brother’s Jeep Wrangler which likely has a failed ABS module. $$$$$
 
CEL on the Focus finally.. its only misfired for the past month. Misfire on 2 now, before I redid the headgasket it was always on 3. Guess it decided to mix it up. Plug was
Way too clean so yeah headgasket leaking again. Switched 2 and 3 plug and runs ok again, next time I'll switch 1 and 2 then 4 and 2.. checkers version with plugs 😂 I just want it to blow up!
 
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New Carb on the Toro Snow blower with Tecumseh engine. Old one was leaking and hard starting.

I was going to get rebuild kit for it and still might depending cost at local shop. Rebuild kit on Amazon was $13.

New carb with new primer and hose, throttle handle (mine was broken), shut off valve, filter, gasket and fuel line was $18.

I replaced the fuel line the other day before getting carb as it dry rotted and cracked. I needed a new auger drive belt so replaced wheel drive belt while I was there. Got everything working to find carb leaking gas, I think maybe just bowl gasket. Everything worked with no leaks 2 days prior to snow storm. Son tried to use it and 20 minutes later auger stopped turning with wet heavy snow. When I went to check belt, tank was empty. Added fuel and found this below.

All fixed and back throwing snow again, no leaks (y) .

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found a shop to press the tripod bearing off my CV. Finally able to reboot it. This OEM CV will be a spare.

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Update - looks like I knocked the oil seal during installation as it’s leaking between the diff and cv.

I’m defeated and running out of time/headed out of town for some extended work travel. I’ll have a mechanic replace the seal.

I’ll have a new seal ready if/when I do the other side. Lesson learned.
 
Today I learned stick welding. The laundry room plug was more then sufficient, no household member reported lights flickering, no breakers were tripped. I now have a huge amount of respect for those who do it professionally. I am far too embarrassed to photograph the work, but fairly confidant the modified kubota d722 engine mount bars will last anywhere from 2 minutes to 1 engine hour.

Time to take a breather and put the engine back in, the wife is eager for me to sunder the front and back yard for her gardening plans, ETA 1-2 weeks.
 
Today I learned stick welding. The laundry room plug was more then sufficient, no household member reported lights flickering, no breakers were tripped. I now have a huge amount of respect for those who do it professionally. I am far too embarrassed to photograph the work, but fairly confidant the modified kubota d722 engine mount bars will last anywhere from 2 minutes to 1 engine hour.

Time to take a breather and put the engine back in, the wife is eager for me to sunder the front and back yard for her gardening plans, ETA 1-2 weeks.
Someone once told me my weld looked like chicken poop. I couldn't argue. If you can't weld good, weld a lot, LOL.
 
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