What are you working on today?

Just recently replaced my hvac blower resistor in the Civic. Thanks to @The motor guy who was posting about his blower resistor/fan... https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/ac-blower-quits-working-on-lower-settings.372090/ got me thinking about mine in the Civic. It was original..

I found a no-name for $10.49 at Amazon. It was excellent quality, scary but true, Made in China. The part was an exact copy of Honda. Comparing that with the other aftermarket brands they used different numbers of coils and thickness to achieve the same resistance. Testing it out, the no-name had specs that were exactly what the service manual said they should be.

Even though my old resistor was "working" it was not blowing air forcefully, made me think something was wrong with the A/C. Since the new resistor has been installed, the air from the A/C is so cold it's fogging up the windows! The air flow is much more now where #3 is what #4's air flow was with the old part.

Who knows how long this part is going to last but for $10 or so.. I'm not worried! Very happy right now.. :cool:
 
researcher said:
Just recently replaced my hvac blower resistor in the Civic. Thanks to @The motor guy who was posting about his blower resistor/fan... https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/ac-blower-quits-working-on-lower-settings.372090/ got me thinking about mine in the Civic. It was original..

I found a no-name for $10.49 at Amazon. It was excellent quality, scary but true, Made in China. The part was an exact copy of Honda. Comparing that with the other aftermarket brands they used different numbers of coils and thickness to achieve the same resistance. Testing it out, the no-name had specs that were exactly what the service manual said they should be.

Even though my old resistor was "working" it was not blowing air forcefully, made me think something was wrong with the A/C. Since the new resistor has been installed, the air from the A/C is so cold it's fogging up the windows! The air flow is much more now where #3 is what #4's air flow was with the old part.

Who knows how long this part is going to last but for $10 or so.. I'm not worried! Very happy right now.. :cool:
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Glad I helped 🙂
 
Finished up installing an Alpine KTP-445U 'power-pack' 4 channel amp in the Silverado. Did all new OEM door speakers and a small powered subwoofer couple weeks ago but felt the sound was severely lacking and increasing loudness and bass boost on the aftermarket headunit made it louder but didn't do anything for the sound quality. The aftermarket headunit's built in 18Wx4 amp is minimal enough to drive trash quality speakers and nothing else. Hence some people complaining about poorer sound after changing to an aftermarket headunit. Most factory headunits will push 40-60w to factory speakers and this restores the proper power to feed stock to mid-end mid-range speaker setups.

Got the gains set properly using a 1kHz test tone played at 75% volume on a Pioneer HU w/ four 4 volt RCA line-outs. Probe the amp speaker outputs (~14VAC front, ~18VAC rear) using a multimeter.
Had to do 3 test fits before finalizing installation. One to make sure wires are long enough to where the amp will be mounted. In this case it's secured using double-sided automotive tape under a metal bracket in the center console. Once wire length was satisfactory then begin crimping the power wires of the head unit and amp wiring harness to Metra wiring harness together, leaving speaker wires uncrimped. Second test fit is to set gain which is why the speaker wires are left uncrimped because we need to probe the amp's speaker output leads to measure VAC. Use an amp gain calculator or V=√P*R. Bottom out both knobs, probe the front channel speaker output and turn gain knob CW to target voltage. Do the same for rear channel speaker output. Don't have to probe all eight wires, left or right channel from the front or rear channel is good enough. After gain set was satisfied, speaker wiring can be crimped from the amp output back into the factory speaker wiring. Wrap harness with tesa tape and route wires in dash. Third test fit is to plug everything in and check for abnormalities. Front left door speaker was cutting in and out, jiggled the metra harness going into the dash and sound came back on. Ziptied the connectors tight and it's all zipties from here on out. Final task was to snake in a set of RCA's from the RCA out of the head unit into the RCA in to the amp, button up the dash and readjust the EQ to get the best sound possible.

I'm not very involved into CarAV but I think it's the most satisfactory work that can be done audio wise.

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Well....."premium" reman starter from AutoZone. Beautifully installed thread repair that I was able to completely remove (pull out) with nothing but needle nose. It was plenty deep but the ID of the hole was so large the STI tap barely had anything to cut

Brain trusts these guys are.....maybe they can run for president next round?
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2017 Genesis G80 3.8L, brakes all around. DFC 5000 series pads and their “geomet” rotors. Seems to stop fine. Flushed the brake fluid with Bosch ESI6.
 
As Eric O says, if crimp connectors trigger you, look away.

Also on '88 XJ this ignition switch connector had been slowly melted and decayed from the years and presumably high resistance or a failing switch. Seems pretty common on these old Chryslers.
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Not having time to order a new connector, I just used an insulated female spade. I dunno, seems like a passable repair to me (along with a new switch of course).
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D60 said:
As Eric O says, if crimp connectors trigger you, look away.

Also on '88 XJ this ignition switch connector had been slowly melted and decayed from the years and presumably high resistance or a failing switch. Seems pretty common on these old Chryslers.

Not having time to order a new connector, I just used an insulated female spade. I dunno, seems like a passable repair to me (along with a new switch of course).View attachment 179371
Click to expand...
Not triggered in the slightest! Let's see... one crimped on spade connector, or replace the whole pigtail and have 7 or 8 butt splices. I'll take one new spade connector for the win.
 
Found a mystery nut outside the garage the other day. Though it fell off the mower. Next day found a 1"x 5/16 #2 grade bolt laying out there. Couldn't figure out where I would have used one of them.

Went to open the garage door and found out as it is one of two that attach the screw rail to the wall bracket.
 
also fixing the inner seal on the rear axle of my dually. you can see more of my special tools at several points in this series of photo's
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. :)
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This is drain and fill # 2 or 3 on the Fusion
It's starting to look like ~40k ATF
Broke the cooler lines free for replacement, I heard Ford quick connects can be anything but quick to disconnect
But these Amazon special tools made light work of it
By some miracle, the 5/8 flare nuts spun out of the radiator with ease
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These were on borrowed time, I'm not risking losing a good low mileage transmission to ~$65 worth of lines
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I may just sand and paint the small rust spot on the AT case side of the cooler line assy, as if I lose an eBay offer on a cheap new one, I'm not paying list
It'll drain for a day or two, for that extra thorough ATF service
 
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