Saturday I drove up a working riding mower to the in laws, and brought back a broken riding mower to repair. The issue description was a catastrophic oil leak. There was plenty of oil caked around the oil drain area. It has the same junky plastic oil drain that all riding mowers seem to have. I put in 2 quarts of T4 which brought it back to proper oil level, but could not reproduce the oil leak. I suspect the oil fill stick loosened perhaps, but I cant see any leaks even after idling it for 15 minutes. I have a replacement oil drain hose to replace the junky plastic oil drain, and will replace the filter. The belt also slipped off the deck so that needs resolving.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Loaded the replacement engine and trailered up my nephew’s Crown Victoria for the drive to the shop.
Should be ready to go in a couple of weeks.
Now, I’ll get started on my projects… the Mini is slated within the next few days. Timing chain set, water pump, etc., are on my project plan.
Should be ready to go in a couple of weeks.
Now, I’ll get started on my projects… the Mini is slated within the next few days. Timing chain set, water pump, etc., are on my project plan.
I have the same model Cub and same engine with 50 hours. I am getting some weeping from that plastic drain crap. Fall oil change it'll be swapped out for a regular pipe nipple. Problem is you have to lift the engine slightly to do this task. I had to tighten the assembly when I first got the mower.
What did you replace the oil drain hose with? I need to find the same thing. Mine leaks.
I have used this hose with great success on my craftsman riding mower. it just long enough so you can reasonably reach the ground with a drain pan, and can tuck it away when not in use, its the blue hose.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BW6Y9TH3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I cleaned up some of my dive gear and gave my parent’s car a bath using a pressure washer. On the books:
Front end refresh on the Ranger
LOF and brakes on a 17 Genesis G80.
Front end refresh on the Ranger
LOF and brakes on a 17 Genesis G80.
What a day!! 2014 Ford Flex 3.5L/6F35 with 112,000 miles, Has Cam-Crank Correlation DTC's P0016 & P0019. All 4 cams are 10-16° Retarded but all 4 are within +/- 1° of each other which ruled out chain stretch. 16° isn't enough to say it jumped time either.
Called the customer & advised that the Timing Cover & Primary Timing set need pulled to investigate the timing error. Also let him know that the water pump puked a little coolant out the weep passage.
He was not happy to say the least as he had the Water Pump & Timing Chain done in December of last year at a independent garage that has since went out of business.
Got it tore down, Didn't see anything obvious & counted the Links just to verify (Bank 2 Primary Cam Link to Crank Link is 35 Links).
Removed the Priming Chain & found that the Crank Gear has been rattling around on it's dowel pin which wore the Dowel quite a bit, But also the Crankshaft.
No way the Balancer was seated or torqued down properly, But I didn't take note of how tight the bolt was upon disassembly. Though the drive belt is worn.
I dread having to call customers with stuff like this, He was trying to do the right thing by having the WP changed before it caused issues just to have a hack screw it up.
It needs a engine, Worked up a quote with a used engine & a new OE Water Pump.
Customer can't afford to put an engine in it.
We came to an agreement that I would try to restore crank timing & try to retain it by torqueing the balancer bolt properly using a new Dowel Pin & Crank Gear.
A new Dowel actually has some press fit & is standing straight.
Put it all back together using OE Ford Crank Gear, Water Pump, Primary Guides, & Primary Tensioner. Had to use a Melling Primary Chain as Ford ones are on backorder.
Cams are now Half a Degree Advanced @ Idle (Phasers locked), And held through some WOT runs to redline.
Called the customer & advised that the Timing Cover & Primary Timing set need pulled to investigate the timing error. Also let him know that the water pump puked a little coolant out the weep passage.
He was not happy to say the least as he had the Water Pump & Timing Chain done in December of last year at a independent garage that has since went out of business.
Got it tore down, Didn't see anything obvious & counted the Links just to verify (Bank 2 Primary Cam Link to Crank Link is 35 Links).
Removed the Priming Chain & found that the Crank Gear has been rattling around on it's dowel pin which wore the Dowel quite a bit, But also the Crankshaft.
No way the Balancer was seated or torqued down properly, But I didn't take note of how tight the bolt was upon disassembly. Though the drive belt is worn.
I dread having to call customers with stuff like this, He was trying to do the right thing by having the WP changed before it caused issues just to have a hack screw it up.
It needs a engine, Worked up a quote with a used engine & a new OE Water Pump.
Customer can't afford to put an engine in it.
We came to an agreement that I would try to restore crank timing & try to retain it by torqueing the balancer bolt properly using a new Dowel Pin & Crank Gear.
A new Dowel actually has some press fit & is standing straight.
Put it all back together using OE Ford Crank Gear, Water Pump, Primary Guides, & Primary Tensioner. Had to use a Melling Primary Chain as Ford ones are on backorder.
Cams are now Half a Degree Advanced @ Idle (Phasers locked), And held through some WOT runs to redline.
New one for me today, replaced the oil pump in a Chrysler 3.6. These use a 2 stage oil pump that can go between high pressure and low pressure. The pump in this van was stuck on the high pressure/displacement stage and setting a P06DE.
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
Got an LT42 this year - best start watching/planning that …
When I did a 3.5 I couldn't find my balancer installer. I figured even though a thrust bearing is nice it's probably not absolutely mandatory, so was just gonna use the crank bolt but it's too short.What a day!! 2014 Ford Flex 3.5L/6F35 with 112,000 miles, Has Cam-Crank Correlation DTC's P0016 & P0019. All 4 cams are 10-16° Retarded but all 4 are within +/- 1° of each other which ruled out chain stretch. 16° isn't enough to say it jumped time either.
Called the customer & advised that the Timing Cover & Primary Timing set need pulled to investigate the timing error. Also let him know that the water pump puked a little coolant out the weep passage.
He was not happy to say the least as he had the Water Pump & Timing Chain done in December of last year at a independent garage that has since went out of business.
Got it tore down, Didn't see anything obvious & counted the Links just to verify (Bank 2 Primary Cam Link to Crank Link is 35 Links).
Removed the Priming Chain & found that the Crank Gear has been rattling around on it's dowel pin which wore the Dowel quite a bit, But also the Crankshaft.
No way the Balancer was seated or torqued down properly, But I didn't take note of how tight the bolt was upon disassembly. Though the drive belt is worn.
I dread having to call customers with stuff like this, He was trying to do the right thing by having the WP changed before it caused issues just to have a hack screw it up.
It needs a engine, Worked up a quote with a used engine & a new OE Water Pump.
Customer can't afford to put an engine in it.
We came to an agreement that I would try to restore crank timing & try to retain it by torqueing the balancer bolt properly using a new Dowel Pin & Crank Gear.
A new Dowel actually has some press fit & is standing straight.
Put it all back together using OE Ford Crank Gear, Water Pump, Primary Guides, & Primary Tensioner. Had to use a Melling Primary Chain as Ford ones are on backorder.
Cams are now Half a Degree Advanced @ Idle (Phasers locked), And held through some WOT runs to redline.
I keep a small hoarde of random larger metric hardware but couldn't find a bolt long enough to grab enough threads to start pushing the balancer on.
Finally on a whim I pulled the crank bolt from an old Ford EFI 2.9 V6 out back and it worked great.
I ordered a BluePoint installer the next day then found mine the day after that
Also (useless trivia bonus points) IIRC the crank seal can take the same tool as the modular V8's -- the 303-635
Best way known to man, at least so far, to find something. Order a replacement.
Stabbed the AX15 back in this '88 XJ with a Centerforce clutch. They also wanted me to change rear gear oil. It's the wonderful D35 rear and certainly looked to be leaking from an axle tube press fit.
Closer inspection revealed it certainly is, and that tube took a hit on the upper front of the driver side, denting the tube:
I also thought-- even by eye -- it looked a bit wonky so a straight edge confirmed the entire axle has a considerable smile. Driver (and dented, and leaking):
Passenger (not dented and not quite as bowed)
Closer inspection revealed it certainly is, and that tube took a hit on the upper front of the driver side, denting the tube:
I also thought-- even by eye -- it looked a bit wonky so a straight edge confirmed the entire axle has a considerable smile. Driver (and dented, and leaking):
Passenger (not dented and not quite as bowed)
Replaced water pump, primary chain, 4 guides, chain tensioner, belts and spark plugs for a BITOG member on ‘13 edge 3.5. A bit unusual the RH upper guide had a crack along the steel insert for the bolt. In order to access the bolt for the guide the rear bank cam sprockets must be removed so adds a little extra time
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parts came in for my son’s 4Runner. I inspected the rear shocks (bilstein b6) like I do anything that arrives here, and then sprayed a coating of VHT black on the new brembo rotor hats, inside and out. It may be weeks before he comes by next but they will be ready.
took the day off work to cut and hang plywood shelves in the garage. Trying to get off on fridays just doesn’t work any more. cut the lawn and threw down some fertilizer for good measure. I’ll go in tomorrow.
took the day off work to cut and hang plywood shelves in the garage. Trying to get off on fridays just doesn’t work any more. cut the lawn and threw down some fertilizer for good measure. I’ll go in tomorrow.
It's not if, it's when (failure that is)
Especially when I see a crack on a coil
Swapped all 4 for Motorcraft units
Why can't they make a one piece lug nut that won't cause all those problems?