What are you working on today?

Sunday changed out the rotors and brake pads on my 2004 Focus. They were the original rotors and original pads making them just over 18 years and 185,500 miles. New pads at 1/2" and old pads at 1/4" or 50 % wear over those miles. Not bad I'd say since one of the knocks against the 1st gen Focus was the brakes. Rear shoes get replace this weekend. Oh while at it the original serpentine belt and tensioner were replace.
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helped my friend break loose and replace the stuck brake bleeders in his 65. 4-pots on each caliper, and the rears had dual bleeders for the inside and out. Had to bleed the whole system 3 times until we dislodged something to push it through, get the remainder of the air out, and hold pressure. Master cylinder isn’t great, but works well enough to reposition on the driveway now. it needed 2 gallons of coolant. Looking an a new MC and at least one caliper rebuild. Good times for 90 minutes.

also noted… cab lights on my aluminum f150 are leaking in the heavy rain. The aluminum is really too thin to hold them securely, and these require occasional reapplication of silicone caulk.
 
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There's no gear oil involved here so what's the goo? Leaking wheel cylinder I'm guessing? Or wb grease?
Look at the left/front side of the wheel cylinder and you'll see where it's leaking. The cup failed; cylinder is a bit passed due on rebuild or replacement.
 
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As far as Monday at the shop went, I busted out somewhere around 20 hours book time between 830 and 430. Four wheel pads and rotors on an A3, plugs/coils/VC gasket on a RAV4, and a steering rack and pump on a Buick Enclave. The Enclave alone paid 13.7, knocked it out in 3ish not counting an alignment.

I must present this as a case study of how the aftermarket repair industry is struggling right now: What should have been a simple steering rack R&R turned into a 3-day nightmare. The first rack was completely wrong: it was a non-variable assist rack whereas I needed the variable unit. Fine, the warehouse had the correct unit in stock. Installed the unit, did an initial bleed, and left the system to vent overnight (anyone who's done P/S work on a Traverse/Enclave/etc. knows).

Tuesday morning, I fire it up expecting to have to do nothing more than top off the level. Instead, I was met with what felt like the level of assist one would expect at highway speeds. As I had installed an OEM pump along with the new rack, I immediately knew I had a bad rack. Had a replacement shipped from the warehouse only to find that it's mounting brackets weren't installed properly and didn't line up with the frame.

Enter crisis mode: I took it upon myself to do some digging only to discover that WorldPac had an ACD Professional (NOT Advantage) line steering rack on hand at their TX warehouse. Bingo bango and a touch of overnight shipping: the vehicle was successfully repaired and returned to a very patient customer!

I finished my day doing plugs on a Prius and 2 tires on the roomies Lexus. It was a very successful Wednesday!

*Almost forgot: I heard a light grinding from the LR of my Jeep on the drive in to work yesterday. Went ahead and ordered the cheapest $25 set of semi-metallic pads I could find locally and slapping them on after my shift. The pedal feels amazing, and the stopping power is better than it's ever been!
 
Added some R-134a to a friend’s Forester. I happened to have a set of cheap AC gauges and a little refrigerant laying around. System is still a little low but I ain’t going to the parts store or Walmart at this hour.
 
Assembling a 383 stroker small block Chevy for a 1956 Chevy 210 2-door sedan, Forged Eagle Crank & H-Beam Rods, Forged Wiseco Pistons, Prepped .020" over 4 Bolt Vortec 5.7L Block, AFR 195cc Cylinder Heads, High Volume/Standard Pressure Oil Pump.
Custom ground billet roller camshaft for the 177ci Weiand Blower, GM Performance "Bowtie Lifters"....Same I use in LSx builds.
Roller Rockers & Hardened Pushrods, Lifter preload @ .080"

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Hella E-Code headlights and adapters on my Wife's new Wrangler. Base 2 dr sport w/ manual windows and the 6 speed and, unfortunately, the base halogen lights...
A JL? Honestly I can't believe Stellantis is still offering anything but the LED package. It simply should be standard equipment, not an option

Have they figured out how to build a clutch yet? I know it's tricky, what with being such new technology and all (heavy sarcasm).....
 
A JL? Honestly I can't believe Stellantis is still offering anything but the LED package. It simply should be standard equipment, not an option

Have they figured out how to build a clutch yet? I know it's tricky, what with being such new technology and all (heavy sarcasm).....
My Wife wanted the most basic one, except for a/c and upgraded a/t tires and it only came with their awful base lights. I researched the various LED options (Speaker, etc.) but decided on my default; genuine, quality E-codes. Sad, but in my experience, few current vehicles lights are truly better than quality E-codes.....note that by 'quality', I mean European Hella, Cibie, current Lucas, Koito (Japanese) and NOT the East Asian knockoffs.

No, they haven't figured out the clutch, or the manual option was an afterthought. The feel, or almost complete lack thereof, is not great and neither is the pedal position or engagement, BUT it is a small open 4wd w/ a standard and that makes it all good!
 
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