What are you working on today?

[D60]

Spent my ENTIRE 3 day weekend pulling the timing cover and valve covers off my Mustang to find out what was causing some noise that has been driving me nuts for way too long. Turned out to be the timing chain tensioners have a terrible gasket on the back and when they blow out you get crappy oil pressure. Slapped 2 new chain tensioners in and replaced the chain guides and put everything else back together.

A suggestion for anyone else attempting this repair - prepare to cuss a lot when you remove the PS pump. There is a 3rd bolt on the bottom that is a nightmare to get off - and of course it is one of those super long bolts.

Also, when installing the crankshaft seal use a 2x4 on top of the old seal to drive in the new seal. I tried a couple of times without the 2x4 and just couldn't get it in there correctly. 1 try with the 2x4 and then hitting the 2x4 with a hammer worked like a charm.

Hopefully you used OEM tensioners and guides or you'll be doing it again soon. Some go to the old style metal ratcheting tensioners (no gasket required, too) but I'm not sure that'd be advisable for a Mustang which is likely to see higher RPM's more regularly.

OTC makes a tool for the crank seal but it's absurdly expensive. I borrowed one and copied it for fun

 

[meep]

Spent two hours helping my buddy get fire from his “new” 65 corvette. Went through some electrical until we got it to crank. Started feeding it fuel from a solo cup down the gullet and it popped off loud, clear, and with no smoke from sitting for a number of years. (Wow). Then the old gas pumped forward and turned the Carter 4bbl into a pretty fountain. Cleaned up the mess, called it a good day. Later sent him a link discussing how to clean up and check the float bowl assembly, and he’s buying a rebuild kit. He’s never been into a carb before, this will be fun.

his wife asked me what to get him for Father’s Day. I told her a fan he can hang on the wall of their small garage, and 2 sets of track lights so he’s got more than a 60w bulb and white porcelain fixture.

 

[Kennedy01]

Yesterday I got the 283 to turn, and was able to remove the number two rod cap to inspect the crank journal. At some point I'll have to have this crank checked, in the meantime I'll also have my other crank checked and also my other block. For now I'm putting the project in the corner until I'm ready to go further with it.

Today I've got two brake jobs waiting on me.

 

[nthach]

The Prius lives again. This time, it’s quieter. And next time I do a job of this sort, I’m sticking to Toyota RTV or Permatex Right Stuff in a dispenser.

 

[Barkleymut]

Hopefully you used OEM tensioners and guides or you'll be doing it again soon. Some go to the old style metal ratcheting tensioners (no gasket required, too) but I'm not sure that'd be advisable for a Mustang which is likely to see higher RPM's more regularly.

OTC makes a tool for the crank seal but it's absurdly expensive. I borrowed one and copied it for funView attachment 102174View attachment 102175

Yup, if I am gonna open up the engine only FOMOCO parts are going in. 94k miles and she is CLEAN inside

 

[AutoMechanic]

Worked on my Mazda today. Just a simple tire rotation and cleaned the carburetor and tightened the valve cover bolts again. I tighten them about once a month as they vibrate loose. I was trying to determine why I felt vibrations starting at about 45mph. I believe it’s the tire balance because it’s barely noticeable now the tires are moved. Had this issue once before as well. The wheel weights on my rims do shift as they are painted rims from the factory and the paint has worn off so the weights occasionally slide down some. I plan on repainting the rims eventually I don’t want to replace them unless I can find the exact same ones because I’d never run anything that changed appearance of a vehicle. I rotated traditional front to back as I feel best about doing that and that’s how I learned so that’s what I’ll continue. No cross. I will balance them at work sometime if I decide to drive it there or just take the wheels off and bring them. Also applied some light copper anti seize to the drum/rotor faces as these wheels like to trap water behind them so I believe even if the anti seize most of the way wears off at least it’s not seized. I used copper strictly because Sam’s had already coated them in copper last time lol. It has never worn off, that was in 2018. I also applied just a dab on the studs too for protection in case. Second picture is for reference of the wheels I’m talking about. When I was cruising around the truck turned 109,000. Low mileage for the age in my opinion. Truck is an 89 all stock, 5 speed RWD. Pretty hard to get tires for these days pretty limited options. Can’t even get the Hankook I have on there now as they are discontinued. One thing I will say is my Escape is a heck of a lot easier to maneuver and get around in lol and the power steering ain’t broke on it like it is on the truck lol. And my truck hates ethanol gas too so that’s also why I don’t run it much because the carburetor doesn’t like that ethanol. Whenever I put the no ethanol in it makes a world of difference. Probably what keeps making the carburetor dirty is all that ethanol.

 

[paulo57509]

I don't like working under the dashboards.

Intermittent no-start on the Lexus. Turn the key to start and the starter grunts for a second and quits. Turn the key to off, restart and engine starts normally. No real pattern has emerged.

Diagnosis points to the ignition switch. So that's on the schedule.

I'm replacing the battery terminals (OEM) after some time elapses be be (kinda) sure the switch fixes the issue.

 

[ripcord]

I had a similar issue in my truck. It turned out to be the pigtail, not the switch itself.

 

[cb_13]

Fixed a loose ignition switch, installed new shocks and a lighting kit on an EZgo golf cart.

 

[Kennedy01]

Yesterday
2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Turned front rotors, replaced pads

2006 Chrysler Town and Country
Turned front and rear rotors, replaced front and rear pads, changed engine oil

 

[53' Stude]

2020 Ford Escape

Rear shocks that I ordered in March. Ford finally decided to send them to me yesterday. Pretty easy to replace in all honesty

 

[14Accent]

Well well! Barely a week and I've missed so many great repairs!

To keep things brief: it wouldn't have been a true holiday weekend without a breakdown, specifically the belt tensioner pulley on my Jeep locking up and snapping my belt while on my way to the cabin. It all worked out... I was able to have parts and tools driven down allowing me to knock out a parking lot repair in 15 minutes.

The only other job of note was a steering rack on a 2012 Audi Q7. I was dreading the job, however it turned out to be a delight. I removed the outer tie rods from the knuckles, removed the boots and inner tie rods from the rack while it was still installed, then the short rack slid right out!

Before anyone questions my method: the rack comes from Audi as a bare short rack, so all these items would have needed to be transferred regardless. The toe readings were within .05 per side when I put it on the rack.

 

[53' Stude]

Well well! Barely a week and I've missed so many great repairs!

To keep things brief: it wouldn't have been a true holiday weekend without a breakdown, specifically the belt tensioner pulley on my Jeep locking up and snapping my belt while on my way to the cabin. It all worked out... I was able to have parts and tools driven down allowing me to knock out a parking lot repair in 15 minutes.

The only other job of note was a steering rack on a 2012 Audi Q7. I was dreading the job, however it turned out to be a delight. I removed the outer tie rods from the knuckles, removed the boots and inner tie rods from the rack while it was still installed, then the short rack slid right out!

Before anyone questions my method: the rack comes from Audi as a bare short rack, so all these items would have needed to be transferred regardless. The toe readings were within .05 per side when I put it on the rack.

Just my opinion but a alignment to cover you is never a bad idea. Glad it worked out great for you

 

[LazyDog]

I spent some time looking for an exhaust leak and I found it using a shop vac in reverse.
I was not able to find these leak using a smoke machine probably not enough pressure.

 

[Kennedy01]

Yesterday and today
2014 Chevrolet Cruze 1.4 turbo motor
Valve cover assembly, intake manifold, breather hose, water pump, thermostat, water outlet manifold, coolant bleeder hose

 

[meep]

Rotated the tires on the f150 after work. Lugs were sluggish coming off, and DT was the last to touch them, confirming that I was doing the right thing to rotate and torque them myself. Mine are oem rims and tire size - man I forgot how heavy they are. There is nothing dainty about getting them in place. The 2-piece lugs are starting to get beat up some.

wife is going on a trip so I did a bitoger thing for the first time- preemptively replaced her low beam bulbs… it’s a crv modified to handle H9s, so its not like she could do it herself. I chucked a good used one in the trunk with the spare tire. had to make 3 stops to buy 2 - and they were $18 apiece for the cheapest, basic bulbs. Can’t keep them in stock is what I heard.

Inspected her Michelin CC2 tires with maybe 5000 miles on them. I don’t see how they will come close to the mfr warranty - the rubber is so soft - all of the block edges are rounded and even “chunking” very small at the leading and trailing edges. I mean, they will warranty the difference and i prefer softer compounds, but wow. Tread depth looks fine… just looks and behaving like summer rubber.

spent another 3 date-nights worth of food money on one sheet of plywood, 1/2” birch-covered.

 

[CleanSump]

Replaced diff fluids on 2010 BMW X3 with Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90.
Easy drain on front.
Rear was a pump out and pump in.
Thick, black, goo is gone. So is the last of my Severe Gear stash.

 

[HemiBenny]

What a Saturday! Changed the oil, rotated the tires, and changed out the oil pressure sensor in the Chrysler. This is the first time a product other than a Shell product has been in the oil pan in this Chrysler.
As for the oil pressure sensor, I had a P0520 with no other codes, no drivability issues, wiring looked great, and the pins were as clean as. Cleared the CEL after changing out the sensor and everything has been good so far today with concerns to the CEL according to my Wife. This has been the first problem other than an engine mount outside of regular maintenance in 140,000 miles. I’m happy with that.
Onto the next. The washing machine would go out of balance frequently here lately and decide to dance across the floor, so my Son and I put new suspension rods in it. So far today, several loads have been done and we have had no balance issues anymore.
Onto the next. My trusty old FS85 finally had a failure, the throttle cable snapped. So after a few days, my part finally came in. Time to get my old Stihl back in shape. (She’s been a good one, she’ll eat whatever you put her into.)
Finally, my Son-in-law is wanting to get more hands on with maintenance, so he came over to change the oil in his Compass with the 2.4l multiair, same as my Chrysler 200. Everything went well until he started it for a few seconds and then shut it off. It dumped almost a quart of oil on the floor from the filter area. (Pic of my garage floor)
Of course he was deflated at that point thinking he messed up. I told him that he didn’t do anything wrong, I watched him. Things happen.
I watched him put the filter on (Wix 57060) and I know he didn’t over-tighten it, under-tighten it, cross thread, or double gasket it. So what? Rolled gasket? That’s what I’m leaning towards because the gasket felt real loose after removing it. I know having it on and taking it off will do that to it, but I can only conclude that it was that way to begin with allowing it to roll easily. Who knows though? There are no obvious splits in the gasket, none in the crimped area around the filter,… nothing.
He took it off and put a new Fram XG10060 on that I had here and did a re-do on the oil change,..everything was as it should be after that. Doing this at least showed him that he did it exactly the same way as before and it worked out.
So to say that it shook his confidence is an understatement. I told him that it wasn’t a big deal. Things happen to everyone that works on cars at one point or another. He did the right thing, he caught the leak and corrected it.
Finally, I’m changing my oil,…I’m draining the water and putting in some Samuel Adams Boston Lager 0w16? Is that what beer would be, 0w16?
Cheers everyone. Hopefully everyone is having a great weekend.

 

[AutoMechanic]

Attempted to replace the exhaust elbow on pops truck. Got every bolt broke loose after 3 days of spraying with Kroil. Except these two on the bottom clamp. Rounded off the one on the right also cracked a brand new Snap-on 9/16 socket trying to get it off and it rounded it. The socket has been replaced under warranty once now it’s about to be again haha. Can’t get a good angle with vise grips because of where it’s at and how close it is to the other one plus it’s so tight that I don’t think I could get it with them anyway. Will get my extractors and put on it. Just the one tool I didn’t bring lol. I also hammered a socket on it and done nothing more than round it off a little more. Luckily the clamps get replaced anyway. If worst comes to worst I’ll cut it off. And they are pre formed so no putting anti seize on them. I will use anti seize on the new guillotine clamps though. You should always use anti seize on any exhaust bolts. Also took off the old cb antenna mount. He has a new one to put on there which is already on and set up.

 

[Kennedy01]

Today
Turned front rotors and replaced front pads on a 1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, and changed the engine oil. Also took some time to run some numbers on my 283 parts. I've got a '62 and a '64 block, and both have forged steel crankshafts. Got the ol gears turning in my head now.