What are you working on today?

I replaced a starter on a 2003 Pontiac Vibe this morning, and I've got a rear brake job on a 1999 Ford Ranger to finish tomorrow. I'm stuck waiting on a hardware kit.
 
Use a heat gun to warm the TCM.

Other mechanic didn't like that idea so the next thing we did was swap TCM's from an identical truck. After a test drive it didn't go into limp mode thus ruling out any other issue (power, valve body, sensors, etc). We condemned the TCM as faulty and waiting for management to approve the repair.
 
Oil change on the stepkids Jeep Compass, and tire rotation.

Can anyone explain why any car manufacturer thinks that wheel bolts as opposed to studs are a better idea? What a pain in the butt.
Audi and BMW, VW think it’s great idea too 💩💩

It just shows me that they don’t want any person who is not a “technician” to work on vehicles. Sad but true
 
Audi and BMW, VW think it’s great idea too 💩💩

It just shows me that they don’t want any person who is not a “technician” to work on vehicles. Sad but true
Yea, I suspect that they're a holdover from the Diamler-Chrysler days. They must have let that engineer keep his job when they split.

I'm sure technicians hate them too.
 
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Oil change on the stepkids Jeep Compass, and tire rotation.

Can anyone explain why any car manufacturer thinks that wheel bolts as opposed to studs are a better idea? What a pain in the butt.
It’s an Euro thing. Euros believe that wheel fasteners are a wear item and it is easier to replace wheel bolts than studs.
 
I replaced a starter on a 2003 Pontiac Vibe this morning, and I've got a rear brake job on a 1999 Ford Ranger to finish tomorrow. I'm stuck waiting on a hardware kit.
I had an acquaintance hit a deer with his Vibe...2009 MY I think. It basically totals the vehicle just because they're uncommon enough that parts aren't readily available, esp at JYs here in the sticks. I think '09 and '10 were different than previous bodies so that doesn't help.

We figured up $2000 in parts (mostly new from RA) not including paint. That was just grille, bumper valance, headlight, hood, hood hinges, right fender and core support. Right front door would have been used via ebay, and we actually found the right color there.

I'm only guessing if it were a Matrix used parts might have been more readily available, but maybe not.

It's a shame because it still runs and drives fine but even in today's used market it's difficult to justify fixing. Vehicle had ~140k miles
 

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I had an acquaintance hit a deer with his Vibe...2009 MY I think. It basically totals the vehicle just because they're uncommon enough that parts aren't readily available, esp at JYs here in the sticks. I think '09 and '10 were different than previous bodies so that doesn't help.

We figured up $2000 in parts (mostly new from RA) not including paint. That was just grille, bumper valance, headlight, hood, hood hinges, right fender and core support. Right front door would have been used via ebay, and we actually found the right color there.

I'm only guessing if it were a Matrix used parts might have been more readily available, but maybe not.

It's a shame because it still runs and drives fine but even in today's used market it's difficult to justify fixing. Vehicle had ~140k miles
If he had the $2K to spend and its still mechanically sound, fix it. You'll be hard pressed to replace it for $2K.
 
Finished up the brake job on the '99 Ranger, and changed the oil. Started a CV axle replacement job on a 1990 Toyota 4runner after. Also changing the oil before it leaves.
 
The '06 F250 I was working on....On & Off last week turned into a steaming pile....

*Brake Booster.....Leaking vacuum.
*Alternator bleeding enough A/C Voltage to cause P0340 & P0344 Bank 1 CMP Sensor DTC's.
*A/C system is toast. Sure....I saw a little black on the discharge hose fitting, But I've seen that on hundreds of working Ford A/C systems.
*Fuel Gauge sending unit DOA.

Replaced the Booster & Alternator, Delivered it! Truck does run VERY well! Customer declined repairing the A/C system & sending unit.


Picture of the removed Orifice Tube, Almost had to get the orifice tube removal tool after it.....

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Working on this bad boy. Wired up led spot lights in rear, fixed a ground wire from battery to frame, replaced random burnt out bulbs, and redid some wires.
It has a 5.7L with 3 speed OD automatic and RWD. Using conventional oil/transmission fluid. Has 114K miles from 1984 ish..

And yes this is an actual Conrail truck 🎉 that was retired in the late 80’s.
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Volvo 240 sedan:

Front rotors and pads, brake fluid flush, winter to summer tire rotation. Loving my new QuickJack 7000TL!
 

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This was actually yesterday.....

2012 Chevy Silverado, 5.3L/6L80E 4x4 with a P0325 Knock Sensor Bank 1 Circuit Fault DTC. Been to 4 different shops, Bank 1 Knock Sensor has been replaced several times, And the ECM has been replaced Twice.

Guy's been trying to get this thing Inspected for 18 months.....

Gen IV LSx knock sensor circuits will output a 2.5vdc bias voltage on each circuit for a total of 5vdc. One circuit had 2.49vdc & the other had zero volts.
Hmm....Bet it's shorted to ground, Took a 2amp jumper lead to B+ & blew the fuse immediately.

Yanked a little on the knock sensor harness & both circuits & loom came right out, The harness had been pinched behind the Engine Mount during replacement.

Upon further inspection....The knock sensor harness had been pinched before & patched with cheap electrical tape....Then pinched again in a different spot.

To add insult to injury.....The fresh looking engine mount is BAD....Really bad! I quoted replacing it with a OE mount. He declined, Stating that the mount has a lifetime warranty. I didn't press the issue.

Yes, I routed the knock sensor harness so it would be very difficult for it to get pinched behind the mount again.

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Got the 4runner together this morning, only to discover it needs a right rear wheel bearing. I'll have a new bearing, axle seal and dust seal in the morning from AutoZone, and will take the axle to the machine shop to have the bearing pressed off/on.
 
One of my favorite cars showed up today, 1998 Camaro SS, 5.7L/4L60E. I did the PDI on this very car back when I worked at Bruce Lowrie Chevrolet & I've been working on it ever since.

The Retained Accessory Power Relay that's soldered to the BCM Board had become stuck on, Not a very common issue, Many years ago I did re-solder a cracked joint.
I still have a few 4th Gen BCM's laying around from warrantying cracked solder joint issues at the dealership, So I just flowed some fresh solder into the RAP Relay solder joints, Only one was cracked but I always solder all of them.

Had to adjust the Dimmer Switch a little as it was getting tough to switch it.
The Turn Indicator Flasher was getting VERY lazy.
Needed the main Belt Tensioner & Drive Belt, OE Tensioner & a Continental belt.

Still need to do.....
*Trans service
*Differential service
*Oil Change
*Front Wheel Alignment, Got to farm this out, Owner is having new tires installed soon.
*Low Coolant Sensor

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Rear brakes on '07 Ram 2500

Incidentally, on a floating caliper system (ie pistons on only one side), odds on such uneven wear being sticky pins vs sticky pistons? To stay out of the weeds let's just assume hoses are ok.

Seems to me if pistons were stuck you'd see more wear on both pads because it's pretty much like applying the brakes? But if the caliper can't float properly you'll more likely see a single pad wear prematurely? Is my reasoning flawed?

FWIW the owner declined new calipers but I don't have much faith in any of the reman stuff I would have had to have purchased locally anyhow.....
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