What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
2002 Chevy Astro 4.3L/4L60E, Customer had a local transmission shop rebuild the 4L60E 6 months ago, Complaint of a harsh/rough 1-2 shift, The trans shop attempted to correct it 3 times & finally told him it was normal 
, They likely didn't do anything.
It did have a very rough 1-2 shift!
*1-2 Accumulator Housing stacked backwards, Corrected the orientation.
*Accumulator Valve Spring in the Valve Body was too heavy, Installed a 24 OZ TransGo spring....(lightest available)
*Excessive 2/4 Band Clearance, Over .250". Used a Sonnax extra long apply pin & got the clearance down to .050"
*Installed 2 extra cushion springs (TransGo) in the 2nd Servo Piston.
2019 Nissan NV200 2.0L/CVT, Stolen Catalytic Converter. Retails for over $4,000 & has a $750 core. Awaiting approval from Insurance......All so a dope fiend can get high
, They likely didn't do anything.It did have a very rough 1-2 shift!
*1-2 Accumulator Housing stacked backwards, Corrected the orientation.
*Accumulator Valve Spring in the Valve Body was too heavy, Installed a 24 OZ TransGo spring....(lightest available)
*Excessive 2/4 Band Clearance, Over .250". Used a Sonnax extra long apply pin & got the clearance down to .050"
*Installed 2 extra cushion springs (TransGo) in the 2nd Servo Piston.
2019 Nissan NV200 2.0L/CVT, Stolen Catalytic Converter. Retails for over $4,000 & has a $750 core. Awaiting approval from Insurance......All so a dope fiend can get high
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- Nov 28, 2021
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Yesterday, plugs and wires on my daughters tahoe
Today......on my 15 GMC 3500, 6.0.....
ac delco plugs, summit 8mm low ohm wires, ( measure to about 1000 ohms less than stock, we will see)
oil change, 10w30 napa syn, 1 qt 15w50 napa synthetic, ac delco filter pf48 or whatever
Today......on my 15 GMC 3500, 6.0.....
ac delco plugs, summit 8mm low ohm wires, ( measure to about 1000 ohms less than stock, we will see)
oil change, 10w30 napa syn, 1 qt 15w50 napa synthetic, ac delco filter pf48 or whatever
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2021
- Messages
- 805
sawzall?2002 Chevy Astro 4.3L/4L60E, Customer had a local transmission shop rebuild the 4L60E 6 months ago, Complaint of a harsh/rough 1-2 shift, The trans shop attempted to correct it 3 times & finally told him it was normal
It did have a very rough 1-2 shift!
*1-2 Accumulator Housing stacked backwards, Corrected the orientation.
*Accumulator Valve Spring in the Valve Body was too heavy, Installed a 24 OZ TransGo spring....(lightest available)
*Excessive 2/4 Band Clearance, Over .250". Used a Sonnax extra long apply pin & got the clearance down to .050"
*Installed 2 extra cushion springs (TransGo) in the 2nd Servo Piston.
2019 Nissan NV200 2.0L/CVT, Stolen Catalytic Converter. Retails for over $4,000 & has a $750 core. Awaiting approval from Insurance......All so a dope fiend can get high
Yeah....You can see the blade rub marks on the subframe.
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- Nov 29, 2021
- Messages
- 5,383
Hose routing. My car will put coolant IN to the tank. I've been having GREAT difficulty getting it to suck it in and back down, leaving the radiator low on fluid level.
Before I go crazy. Will my hose routing as pictured work? And why or why not? *edit: Before you asked.. Hose is "not pinched" as much as it can be. I can adjust this by how close it goes to over the yellow cap. It is the long curved bend I am hoping would "hold vacuum" or not. Also, if I should put "electrical tape" around where the hose slides into the overflow.. or just buy a used reservoir with hose already in it, although that may not be needed......
Notes:
1. I MAY have seen it suck down coolant ONE time. Have seen it not more than. Results inconclusive.
Tonight, I have a point where the fluid in reservoir sat when car was running and warm/hot with good heat out of vents at idle.
2. Hose is about halfway down the reservoir, where the line is.
3. Fluid level is about 2 inches above that. Can barely be seen but is green.
4. Suspecting bad OE cap from dealer possibly due to NOS, valve maybe not opening to allow return. As such, new aftermarket 16psi cap (yes, from Autozone) is on there. Spring area is constructed different. Whichever cap works, wins.
Idle is smooth.
Checking with the experts here so I don't go too too crazy. Should I buy another hose kit and not cut it and let it get to the bottom? Will as pictured work at all?
I cut some length before trying new routing. So hood prop rod and hose do not intersect...
Also.. has anyone else ever gotten a defective new OE cap?
Before I go crazy. Will my hose routing as pictured work? And why or why not? *edit: Before you asked.. Hose is "not pinched" as much as it can be. I can adjust this by how close it goes to over the yellow cap. It is the long curved bend I am hoping would "hold vacuum" or not. Also, if I should put "electrical tape" around where the hose slides into the overflow.. or just buy a used reservoir with hose already in it, although that may not be needed......
Notes:
1. I MAY have seen it suck down coolant ONE time. Have seen it not more than. Results inconclusive.
Tonight, I have a point where the fluid in reservoir sat when car was running and warm/hot with good heat out of vents at idle.
2. Hose is about halfway down the reservoir, where the line is.
3. Fluid level is about 2 inches above that. Can barely be seen but is green.
4. Suspecting bad OE cap from dealer possibly due to NOS, valve maybe not opening to allow return. As such, new aftermarket 16psi cap (yes, from Autozone) is on there. Spring area is constructed different. Whichever cap works, wins.
Idle is smooth.
Checking with the experts here so I don't go too too crazy. Should I buy another hose kit and not cut it and let it get to the bottom? Will as pictured work at all?
I cut some length before trying new routing. So hood prop rod and hose do not intersect...
Also.. has anyone else ever gotten a defective new OE cap?
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Front brakes on 2020 Nissan Altima AWD sedan.
twouvakind
Site Donor 2025
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looks healthy to me
It may be the cap and hose, it may not. You may have a small leak, anywhere. Are the main hoses hard and rigid (under good pressure) when the engine is good and hot?
Nephew’s Crown Victoria had low oil, a week after an oil change. Odd as it never had oil consumption concerns before.
Got under it Monday to check out a potential oil cooler leak. Brake clean on the lines showed no leaks; since they were coolant lines with no oil that didn’t explain the low oil.
Looked at the oil cooler lines and saw that the OEM lines off the radiator were severed and rerouted to a Hayden oil cooler up front. Lines were hard with rusted clamps and a lot of oil. Lines off the engine were damp with oil and clamps in the same condition.
Decided to run new lines, but the original installation used an adapter to step up from a smaller line to a slightly larger connection on the oil cooler. I got a length of oil cooler line and reused some of the larger hose that was still pliable. Used new clamps and tightened it all up. No leaks.
So what caused the gradual oil loss, over a week?
When I changed the oil, there was no issue with oil loss. His oil was way overdue so I grabbed an oil filter from my stash equivalent to the OEM FL-910s: a Denso 150-2010. It is indicated as compatible with his car, a P7B ex police interceptor.
I’ve never used this filter with this car before but it didn’t seem to be a problem. I even checked the filter for tightness and it was solid.
I decided to swap it out for a Mopar MO-409 I had. These filters I use for his car and the Cub Cadet lawn tractor so I have a couple of varieties.
Attached are the comparison photos I took.
I can only surmise that the thin o-ring the Denso uses just doesn’t work on his car. There was no double gasketing, it was tight.
The Mopar filter has a gasket that looks like any other filter I’ve used, including the one that came off (Hastings/Baldwin filter). I don’t expect to see this problem return. But I’m monitoring it for the next week. The other Denso 2010 filter will be used on the lawn tractor. I won’t get them for use on his Ford any longer.
Got under it Monday to check out a potential oil cooler leak. Brake clean on the lines showed no leaks; since they were coolant lines with no oil that didn’t explain the low oil.
Looked at the oil cooler lines and saw that the OEM lines off the radiator were severed and rerouted to a Hayden oil cooler up front. Lines were hard with rusted clamps and a lot of oil. Lines off the engine were damp with oil and clamps in the same condition.
Decided to run new lines, but the original installation used an adapter to step up from a smaller line to a slightly larger connection on the oil cooler. I got a length of oil cooler line and reused some of the larger hose that was still pliable. Used new clamps and tightened it all up. No leaks.
So what caused the gradual oil loss, over a week?
When I changed the oil, there was no issue with oil loss. His oil was way overdue so I grabbed an oil filter from my stash equivalent to the OEM FL-910s: a Denso 150-2010. It is indicated as compatible with his car, a P7B ex police interceptor.
I’ve never used this filter with this car before but it didn’t seem to be a problem. I even checked the filter for tightness and it was solid.
I decided to swap it out for a Mopar MO-409 I had. These filters I use for his car and the Cub Cadet lawn tractor so I have a couple of varieties.
Attached are the comparison photos I took.
I can only surmise that the thin o-ring the Denso uses just doesn’t work on his car. There was no double gasketing, it was tight.
The Mopar filter has a gasket that looks like any other filter I’ve used, including the one that came off (Hastings/Baldwin filter). I don’t expect to see this problem return. But I’m monitoring it for the next week. The other Denso 2010 filter will be used on the lawn tractor. I won’t get them for use on his Ford any longer.
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1995 Chevrolet 3500HD with a 7.4 TBI V8
Replaced throttle body gasket, spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor button, air filter, pcv valve, changed oil
1998 Ford F-150
Nut for the drivers side wiper arm backed off, causing the arm to not wipe. Put a dab of loctite on the nut and reinstalled. Works fine.
Replaced throttle body gasket, spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor button, air filter, pcv valve, changed oil
1998 Ford F-150
Nut for the drivers side wiper arm backed off, causing the arm to not wipe. Put a dab of loctite on the nut and reinstalled. Works fine.
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@meep Didn't exactly check the hoses beyond checking clamps (they didnt appear abnormal to me.. fixed an external leak at lower hose a week or two ago. Was clamp) but it did turn out to be "a small leak." I'm even anxious about removing the cap at all now.
Here is a clamp I adjusted:
The end result is this:
Level moved by itself. Anxious about removing cap at all . Clamp on hose to overflow under radiator cap. Old radiator cap re-used is my anxiety (does it "seal better" I do not know. Have been told you introduce air whenever you remove it. Again, am anxious to take off.) No cross-contamination of fluids.
This all started after I discovered an external leak here, decided it was the poor clamp and then looked at other clamps which brings me to the first paragraph.
The leak introduced air which made the system look like this some weeks ago and the problem has since been resolved, again my hesitancy to remove the cap since the overflow level changed.
It hasn't done that since changing the hose clamp.
I'll keep an eye on it 👁 but it looks like if I just leave it alone.. that it will be okay. Coolant level in overflow moved for the first time in weeks of fighting with it yesterday. That means I fixed it.. right? (If overflow level moves, it is done, I got it?)
Doing random government contractor stuff. I could tell you, but I
Took off what I presume were the OE struts that came on the car and replaced them with new Monroe Quickstruts, I asked Advance if they would match Rock Auto, figuring if they would they'd match the regular inventory price and shipping, but they actually matched the Wholesaler closeout price and didn't care about the cost of shipping, so for $102 after tax I got both of them shipped to my door.