What are you working on today?

Finished my mini split installation last week. I’ll have to grab some more photos when I’m up in the attic next. Pressure tested over 600 psi for 24 hours with nitrogen. Vacuumed down to 150 microns and stabilized at 200 microns for over a hour. System Works as designed.
 

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Couple more of the drains and finished indoor units
 

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Finished my mini split installation last week. I’ll have to grab some more photos when I’m up in the attic next. Pressure tested over 600 psi for 24 hours with nitrogen. Vacuumed down to 150 microns and stabilized at 200 microns for over a hour. System Works as designed.
Gald for you. I am sure you will benefit + enjoy. I love the idea of the mini-split systems. I am sure some of the lure is not only the instant spot on cooling exactly where it is needed but also noted to save energy dollars for the users. They seem like such a great idea. Been reading up on them for quite some time. I was looking to install one in my back yard shop until all of that activity got shutdown on me.
 
Gald for you. I am sure you will benefit + enjoy. I love the idea of the mini-split systems. I am sure some of the lure is not only the instant spot on cooling exactly where it is needed but also noted to save energy dollars for the users. They seem like such a great idea. Been reading up on them for quite some time. I was looking to install one in my back yard shop until all of that activity got shutdown on me.
It’s not hard to do if you are electrically savy and know how AC/heat pumps operate. It is certainly time consuming. I did this 100% by myself other than lifting the outdoor unit onto the stand (I estimate 40-50 hours of time). Also not fun working in an attic with 18” of blown in insulation. I also went above and beyond what many companies would do (IMO) with attention to detail. I also wrapped every line set in 1/8” foam insulation tape to add some extra insulation as I don’t want them sweating in the attic. I also elected to hang one line set from the rafters as to not create an oil trap (that particular indoor unit is higher than the others, didn’t want line set as low power between the branch box and indoor unit ). I’ll have to get photos next time I’m up there.

Mitsubishi units are definitely not DIY if you don’t know what you’re doing. Lots of little things that need to be set (dip switch settings and address settings for both outdoor unit and branch box). You also need to know how to make proper flares.
 
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Finally got to my Brembo brake project.
So, I bought used calipers some two years ago, new rotors, and pads. I was procrastinating and finally got to it.
Some background. BMW E90 328/330 had a Brake performance option (SPBR) that consisted of 6 pot Brembo calipers in front, and 2 pot in the back. Size went from 312X24mm to 336X26mm in front, and from 300X20mm to 324X22mm in the back.
These BMW's were already coming with excellent brakes, so not many people were buying this option, which was PRICEY. On top of that, the front proved a bit problematic. All were coming with ceramic pistons, which proved iffy on track.
The popular upgrade was 335i brakes which are absolutely phenomenal, coming with 348x30mm front rotors and 336x22mm in the back. Single piston.
However, since F30 335 comes with front Brembo rotors and the knuckle is the same as on E90, Brembo 4 pot from F30 is plug-and-play. Except, the rotor is 340X30mm, and the pistons do not have issues as the SPBR version had. It became a very popular upgrade but did require an E90 M3 master brake cylinder to hold more fluid for the front brakes. So, after installing the M3 cylinder, installing calipers, and rotors was next. While I am against slotted and dimpled rotors, I did not have an option here. Rear calipers are from E90 SPBR brakes, and they ONLY come as slotted and dimpled. Front I could go plain, but it would look weird. The front are Zimmerman; rear are DFC. Finding the rear was an absolute nightmare. OE is available at $175 a piece, while DFC is $64. I painted calipers:

Front old:



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Old rotor compared to new (front):

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Rear new:

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Front new:

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Bleed, and bleed some more:

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OK, some love for clutch:

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I used SuperTech DOT 4 to flush huge amount of fluid to get all air out. After that, used Motul RBF660 DOT4 racing fluid to do the final flush via ISTA+ dealership program.


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I used ISTA+, which is a BMW dealership diagnostic and service program. It is free to download. What it does is activates ABS/DSC modules to "shake off" any air bubbles that stick to valves:

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Working on my car again

It had a real rough start, I initially thought it was low battery, as I have a lot of short trips. After work, I tired to start, a few weak cranks later, and I was stuck in parking lot with no crank no start.

I finally got it towed to my garage. My indy wanted $1280 to do starter. Yeah, I’ll pass. YouTube to the rescue.

I’m still waiting for the starter. But in mean time, I finished the disassembly


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Getting the Nishiki ready for a 500 mile ride across Kansas next month. Replaced both Schwalbe Marathon Plus's with another set of Marathon Plus.. 7200 miles, very few flats and still had some tread left darn good tires! Replaced the chain and repacked the wheel bearings, made sure I didn't have a spare rolling around in there. Probably should of replaced the crankset and freewheel but I may just give everything a overhaul at 15k when it'll be due again.
 
Not automotive related; replaced the ice maker in the Whirlpool refrigideezer with genuine Whilrpool parts.

It's like working with your head between a wall (side-by-side). I have a frozen right shoulder (no pun intended) so I have limited motion with my right arm; the ice maker is on the left wall of the freezer. Fortunately the shoulder pain started to subside last night. Still hurts when I reach the limit of motion.

It's only three screws and a Molex 4-terminal plug. Fifteen minute job. Also found some BBQ chicken wings for dinner.

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The old ice maker tray was leaking; slow drip. Appeared to be at the near end of the ice "ejector". The drip created an icicle that allowed dripping water to form a glacier in the ice "tub".

FWIW: https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/frozen-shoulder/symptoms-causes/syc-20372684
 
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2008 GMC Yukon Denali AWD, 6.2L/6L80E, 262,xxx miles.

Customer complaint.....Oil leak, Pretty good one to! He states that every gasket has been changed including the Rear Main Seal. The shop that did the work threw the towel in.....That the block must be cracked :cautious:.

Leak is coming from inside the Bellhousing/Back of engine.....Rear Cover Re-seal! Saw the the oil pan had generous amounts of Grey RTV so I added a new Oil Pan Gasket, R&R Oil Pan, & a Half Hour for cleaning up the RTV mess to the quote.

Customer squirmed a little bit, Being a new referral....I don't blame him. Just explained that there's NO reason 2 tubes of RTV was used on the oil pan gasket when it only requires 4 tiny dots of RTV at the Cover Joints. And I have no idea how much RTV is in the Pick-up Tube Screen.

*The Rear Cover Gasket was original & the rubber inlays where hard as a rock, Most of the bolts were hand tight....Especially where it seals off pressurized oil. The Rear Main Seal had been changed.
*The Oil Pan Gasket was also original, The previous shop/mechanic even too the time to drill the rivets out to apply RTV to both sides of the gasket.
*The Front Cover/Front Seal hasn't been touched....But is dry.
*The Oil Pick-up Tube O-ring was hard & shrunk, Split as I removed it.

There is a TSB concerning block porosity at the Rear Cover Machined surface on '07-'08 L92/LS3 Aluminum Blocks, I've only encounter this once on a '08 Corvette LS3, Was able to see the small pit in the machined surface, GM's fix is to use RTV on the Block side of the gasket.
While I didn't see any pitting in the surface....Still applied a thin coat of RTV to the block side of the gasket.

I'm about 3 hours in, Not really pushing either, Have it done in another 4 hours.....Everything's cleaned up & ready to go.

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Finished up the Denali yesterday, Called the customer & he said make it ready for Inspection.....Canister Vent Valve circuit DTC, Open Solenoid. I use a ratchet strap to shift the spare tire over to gain access to GMT900 SUV Vent Solenoids.

Blocked the AFM oil pressure relief valve before installing the Oil Pan with a 1/4" pipe plug.

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Not busy today but also not slow. Steady is probably the right word. Done a couple things. They mainly had me going around fixing stuff that we failed our OSHA inspection for. Had to install guards on our bench grinder, prep the floor for painting a couple lines at different places, put a cap on the torch tank on and off valve, went around and gave every tech including myself a designated rag bin with a closed lid. The express guys were pretty busy and we didn’t have a whole lot so I told them I’d do it. We also all had to shift our toolboxes roughly 6 inches to the right because they have to be 6 feet from the electrical boxes. One of the express guys gave me an attitude about it and informed me that he was telling the boss that I wouldn’t consolidate to one toolbox like he (the tech) had requested since I had too many tools for his standards. I said you go ahead and tell him he is going to be ok with me being like everybody else and having two. He came over there and said I was fine and I’m the tool king of the shop anyway that provides tools to everyone so I didn’t have anything to worry about. I’ve never seen someone so upset over a toolbox his face was red and he was balling up his fist as he talked to me about it. Boss told him to go home for the rest of the day and come back when he could act mature.

Aside from that ruckus I done a couple 30k services on RAV4 which include a transfer case service along with oil change and rotate and air filters. And spent a lot of time on the Matco truck too haha. The company provided Chick Fil A lunch for us and when the company provides lunch we get to stay on the clock since we have to travel across the street to our other building to get it. I’m not complaining about getting paid to eat free food haha. I got to take home a gallon of lemonade that was left over.
 
I replaced the muffler on my 1993 Tercel tonight. I last did it about 10 years ago with a Bosal unit and it did well but finally the pipe connected to the front rusted out at the weld. The Bosal muffler is still available at $300 but I looked for a Walker muffler, which seemed to be out of stock everywhere but half the cost. I did eventually find one at a commercial hub for Canadian Tire - they don't sell to the public but told me Canadian Tire could order this last one in for me.

That was quite a process because it's discontinued and they said it didn't exist. I finally convinced them to call their commercial parts hub and do it manually and it worked and showed up today.

This job took less than 30 minutes, including getting the tools and and putting them away, plus cleaning up. I have to thank past me for using anti-seize compound last time. About 366,390km on the Tercel now.
 

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Front + Rear pads and rotors on the '19 CX5. Went with the Raybestoes EHT3 all around and my first time trying them so we'll see how they go. The slider clips were a little bit more narrow than OEM but still clears the rotors with probably a 1/4mm of space. Every non-OEM clips I've ever dealt with were never 100% the same fit as OEM so maybe I'll just get those next time.
 
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I got to spend the morning in the Cadillac service dept 😒
No loaners, no ride home, no more rideshare reimbursement
Go **** yourself GM 😟
God I can't wait till September when this POS goes back
2020 Elantra, 32k, and the 3/36 warranty runs out in a few weeks
Does this sound right?

I'm probably gonna tell her to take it in Monday, because that doesn't sound right to me
And yes, I scolded them on the fuzzy cover
Not my problem 😒
 
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The Camry developed an ATF drip from where the cooler line goes to the radiator
I thought it was the old slightly crusty hose, so I drained the fluid, and prepared a new hose with new clamps
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Clean ATF for 199k 🤌
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Some trans cooler hose, and new OE constant tension clamps
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And it still leaks 😭
Turns out it's pitting/corrosion on the 3 YEAR OLD DENSO radiator 😔
I plan on selling this car soon, I really don't wanna buy another $120 radiator
Maybe I'll get more hose, and extended it past the pinhole
I'll think about it
 
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I got to spend the morning in the Cadillac service dept 😒
No loaners, no ride home, no more rideshare reimbursement
Go **** yourself GM 😟
God I can't wait till September when this POS goes back
2020 Elantra, 32k, and the 3/36 warranty runs out in a few weeks
Does this sound right?

I'm probably gonna tell her to take it in Monday, because that doesn't sound right to me
And yes, I scolded them on the fuzzy cover
Not my problem 😒

That cover …………
 
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