What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
I still see rubber left. You could have gone another 150k. Wasteful!
My 2005 CR-V developed an aggressive oil leak a week ago. Normally I’d work on it but I’ve been out of town a lot for work and my wife does most of the driving in this one.
The shop found that the Honda OEM oil filter had a faulty o-ring! It’s the first Honda filter I’ve used. I didn’t notice any issues when I installed it but didn’t look closely.
Back to Napa or Fram next time.
The shop found that the Honda OEM oil filter had a faulty o-ring! It’s the first Honda filter I’ve used. I didn’t notice any issues when I installed it but didn’t look closely.
Back to Napa or Fram next time.
Changed out the fuel filter on my Mini. I ran the fuel level down to warning light on the dash and with 30 miles to empty.
It’s in-tank on the right side so I had to pull the rear seat bottom out and remove the cover.
Pulled the fuel pump fuse, ran out the pressure, and blew all of the dirt and dust out from the top of the tank. Removed both covers to clean off the low pressure fuel pump and check connections.
Pulled the filter assembly out, changed out the old o-rings and looked at the filter. Very dirty, and fuel dripping off it was black. New Febi filter went in, new seal, locked it all down and job done. Ran better this time out, and I filled it with Shell premium since I get 10 cents off per gallon there and I’ve had no issues using their fuel.
Dirty filter pic attached.
It’s in-tank on the right side so I had to pull the rear seat bottom out and remove the cover.
Pulled the fuel pump fuse, ran out the pressure, and blew all of the dirt and dust out from the top of the tank. Removed both covers to clean off the low pressure fuel pump and check connections.
Pulled the filter assembly out, changed out the old o-rings and looked at the filter. Very dirty, and fuel dripping off it was black. New Febi filter went in, new seal, locked it all down and job done. Ran better this time out, and I filled it with Shell premium since I get 10 cents off per gallon there and I’ve had no issues using their fuel.
Dirty filter pic attached.
Attachments
2010 Fusion 2.5 intermittent crank no start. Installed a new ground strap to reduce RF interference per a tsb. So far, so good!
78 F250 rethread some damaged
lug studs and changed the oil. Looks like it’s gonna need some rotors up front. That should be fun to try and get the right parts for.
78 F250 rethread some damaged
lug studs and changed the oil. Looks like it’s gonna need some rotors up front. That should be fun to try and get the right parts for.
Can you share the TSB??
I don’t think it was original since it also was a Febi from the faded writing on the plastic end cap.
Someone probably changed it a decade ago, and it might have had 50k on it. Wild guess on my part.
Worked on the scooter some. Leaked gas from the carb after it shut off and just didn't seem to run right. Adjusting the float fixed the over flow. Had to do some head scratching on the running issue. This scooter has a automatic vacuum choke. Basically it has a thermostatic valve that adjust the choke. Problem is the guy I bought it from got it in pieces and some stuff was missing ie not hooked up right. So put a "T" in vacuum hose to the fuel petcock and hooked it to the thermostatic valve and other end to the carb. Much better now.. alot slower to go figure 
It's been warming up around here, and I found the A/C in the xB less than impressive
So my standard procedure was applied
Wash the condenser
Vacuum the tree detritus out of the cowl, drive it to dry out the condenser to avoid skewed pressure readings
Replace the cabin air filter
Remove leaves that fell into blower motor making a racket
I took a blow gun to the cage, and an unholy cloud of black dust came out, I think that's what's left of the motor brushes
It still works and it's quiet
Take a before measurement
It was noticably colder on the passenger side (where the evaporator is), drivers side was downright warm
My experience (and the Internet) tells me this is a sign of low charge
This car is very primitive in it's HVAC controls, so I don't suspect a blend door issue
Gauge up with PPE
I then purged and inverted a can of 134a I had laying around, it felt about 1/3 full
Now I'm not sure if this is a clutch on off or variable displacement compressor, so I just added very small spurts of refrigerant
Brought it to 1500 RPM, observed vent temperature
Eventually, the compressor started coming on more, and cycling more, the vent temps came down
Now it's equally cold driver/passenger side, and I used what little was left in the can
It was only mid 70s and not humid today, so it may need a little more, but I'll evaluate it over the (upcoming hotter week) and top off some more if needed
Now you turn the A/C on, it comes straight down to 40° before I'm to the corner of my block, so I suspect it was only a little low
Obviously a professional evac/recharge would be best, but that's $150+ I'd prefer not to spend
A light afternoons work and $10 in materials is keeping me comfortable, how cost effective
Pressures before
Pressures after
So my standard procedure was applied
Wash the condenser
Vacuum the tree detritus out of the cowl, drive it to dry out the condenser to avoid skewed pressure readings
Replace the cabin air filter
Remove leaves that fell into blower motor making a racket
I took a blow gun to the cage, and an unholy cloud of black dust came out, I think that's what's left of the motor brushes
It still works and it's quiet
Take a before measurement
It was noticably colder on the passenger side (where the evaporator is), drivers side was downright warm
My experience (and the Internet) tells me this is a sign of low charge
This car is very primitive in it's HVAC controls, so I don't suspect a blend door issue
Gauge up with PPE
I then purged and inverted a can of 134a I had laying around, it felt about 1/3 full
Now I'm not sure if this is a clutch on off or variable displacement compressor, so I just added very small spurts of refrigerant
Brought it to 1500 RPM, observed vent temperature
Eventually, the compressor started coming on more, and cycling more, the vent temps came down
Now it's equally cold driver/passenger side, and I used what little was left in the can
It was only mid 70s and not humid today, so it may need a little more, but I'll evaluate it over the (upcoming hotter week) and top off some more if needed
Now you turn the A/C on, it comes straight down to 40° before I'm to the corner of my block, so I suspect it was only a little low
Obviously a professional evac/recharge would be best, but that's $150+ I'd prefer not to spend
A light afternoons work and $10 in materials is keeping me comfortable, how cost effective
Pressures before
Pressures after
'07 Ram 2500 rear. Broken pad abutment clip. Never seen this before. The entire rear is nearly new (I didn't install it, it cratered several states away). Pads in good shape. Caliper pistons appear to move freely. Rotor looks good. No rust jacking
It's getting a new wheel seal due to leak.
It's getting a new wheel seal due to leak.
Took the Subaru in early this morning to the dealer (under warranty) for a parasitic draw. They quickly diagnosed that the DCM is bad and causing a draw. However, they're on back order so they pulled the fuse so my battery wouldn't keep dying.
While I was there, I needed to pick up a new drain plug and washer for the Jetta (they're a VW, Subaru, and Mazda dealer all in one). Dude just hands me the stuff and says have a nice day, didn't charge me for it. This is not the first time this has happened to me or my co-worker. They seem to like their DIY customers...
Got home and mowed, afterwards got some ethanol free gas for the lawn equipment.
Truck also needed a wash badly! They tar'd and chipped a long stretch of back road I take to work and shopping. It also rained one of the nights I drove home, so it was a mess! Not to mention the birds like to bomb my truck if I park it on the side part of my driveway. It's right under the power line going to my meter, so the birds like the hang out there.
Clean!
While I was there, I needed to pick up a new drain plug and washer for the Jetta (they're a VW, Subaru, and Mazda dealer all in one). Dude just hands me the stuff and says have a nice day, didn't charge me for it. This is not the first time this has happened to me or my co-worker. They seem to like their DIY customers...
Got home and mowed, afterwards got some ethanol free gas for the lawn equipment.
Truck also needed a wash badly! They tar'd and chipped a long stretch of back road I take to work and shopping. It also rained one of the nights I drove home, so it was a mess! Not to mention the birds like to bomb my truck if I park it on the side part of my driveway. It's right under the power line going to my meter, so the birds like the hang out there.
Clean!
2008 GMC Yukon Denali AWD, 6.2L/6L80E, 262,xxx miles.
Customer complaint.....Oil leak, Pretty good one to! He states that every gasket has been changed including the Rear Main Seal. The shop that did the work threw the towel in.....That the block must be cracked
.
Leak is coming from inside the Bellhousing/Back of engine.....Rear Cover Re-seal! Saw the the oil pan had generous amounts of Grey RTV so I added a new Oil Pan Gasket, R&R Oil Pan, & a Half Hour for cleaning up the RTV mess to the quote.
Customer squirmed a little bit, Being a new referral....I don't blame him. Just explained that there's NO reason 2 tubes of RTV was used on the oil pan gasket when it only requires 4 tiny dots of RTV at the Cover Joints. And I have no idea how much RTV is in the Pick-up Tube Screen.
*The Rear Cover Gasket was original & the rubber inlays where hard as a rock, Most of the bolts were hand tight....Especially where it seals off pressurized oil. The Rear Main Seal had been changed.
*The Oil Pan Gasket was also original, The previous shop/mechanic even too the time to drill the rivets out to apply RTV to both sides of the gasket.
*The Front Cover/Front Seal hasn't been touched....But is dry.
*The Oil Pick-up Tube O-ring was hard & shrunk, Split as I removed it.
There is a TSB concerning block porosity at the Rear Cover Machined surface on '07-'08 L92/LS3 Aluminum Blocks, I've only encounter this once on a '08 Corvette LS3, Was able to see the small pit in the machined surface, GM's fix is to use RTV on the Block side of the gasket.
While I didn't see any pitting in the surface....Still applied a thin coat of RTV to the block side of the gasket.
I'm about 3 hours in, Not really pushing either, Have it done in another 4 hours.....Everything's cleaned up & ready to go.
Customer complaint.....Oil leak, Pretty good one to! He states that every gasket has been changed including the Rear Main Seal. The shop that did the work threw the towel in.....That the block must be cracked
.Leak is coming from inside the Bellhousing/Back of engine.....Rear Cover Re-seal! Saw the the oil pan had generous amounts of Grey RTV so I added a new Oil Pan Gasket, R&R Oil Pan, & a Half Hour for cleaning up the RTV mess to the quote.
Customer squirmed a little bit, Being a new referral....I don't blame him. Just explained that there's NO reason 2 tubes of RTV was used on the oil pan gasket when it only requires 4 tiny dots of RTV at the Cover Joints. And I have no idea how much RTV is in the Pick-up Tube Screen.
*The Rear Cover Gasket was original & the rubber inlays where hard as a rock, Most of the bolts were hand tight....Especially where it seals off pressurized oil. The Rear Main Seal had been changed.
*The Oil Pan Gasket was also original, The previous shop/mechanic even too the time to drill the rivets out to apply RTV to both sides of the gasket.
*The Front Cover/Front Seal hasn't been touched....But is dry.
*The Oil Pick-up Tube O-ring was hard & shrunk, Split as I removed it.
There is a TSB concerning block porosity at the Rear Cover Machined surface on '07-'08 L92/LS3 Aluminum Blocks, I've only encounter this once on a '08 Corvette LS3, Was able to see the small pit in the machined surface, GM's fix is to use RTV on the Block side of the gasket.
While I didn't see any pitting in the surface....Still applied a thin coat of RTV to the block side of the gasket.
I'm about 3 hours in, Not really pushing either, Have it done in another 4 hours.....Everything's cleaned up & ready to go.
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Replaced the plugs in my '07 F150 4.6 2V
Mileage on the current plugs unk. I just know I purchased it around 185k and now it's at 235k.
Gap should be around .054". The gaps of the old plugs were:
1 - .097"
2 - .067"
3 - unk as it spit out, bending the strap a bit
4 - .068"
5 - .062"
6 - .070"
7 - .097"
8 - .074"
It seems to idle a lot better now with new Motorcraft plugs properly gapped. Haven't driven it yet but to back it out of the shop
Mileage on the current plugs unk. I just know I purchased it around 185k and now it's at 235k.
Gap should be around .054". The gaps of the old plugs were:
1 - .097"
2 - .067"
3 - unk as it spit out, bending the strap a bit
4 - .068"
5 - .062"
6 - .070"
7 - .097"
8 - .074"
It seems to idle a lot better now with new Motorcraft plugs properly gapped. Haven't driven it yet but to back it out of the shop
Honestly.....I'm surprised a full threaded head spit a plug.
There had been some hackery so I'm inclined to blame the previous monkey who touched it. The #1 boot was ~90 degrees from where it should be and thus now has taken a set in a funny curve.
I also wouldn't be surprised if the plugs were initially installed without checking the gaps or were deliberately gapped incorrectly.
With used high mileage stuff, you just never know....
Put new tires om my daughters KIA Soul, picked these up from Les Schwab, 50K warranty. 
https://www.lesschwab.com/tires/stratus-as/200004114.html
https://www.lesschwab.com/tires/stratus-as/200004114.html
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- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 2,210
Monday we unloaded the Chevy engines and loaded some scrap around the shop, then he ran it to the scrap yard. Today I'm doing inventory on his fluids and shop supplies. I'll be off the rest of the week due to his family going on vacation, I don't plan to do much the rest of the week.