What are you working on today?

I am under the care of a physician, and taking multiple prescriptions. The only unknown at this point is "how long"...
My Dr. prescribed beer. He's a teetotaler and so am I. But beer sure does make the fluid flow, which helps carry the stone through.
My office mate had the sonic break up thing done his were so large. Still super painful.
Best of luck to you.
 
Installed a new battery into my parents’ infrequently driven 2010 Altima. On average, the Costco batteries have been lasting 2 years.

Went with a Duracell AGM 35/85 this time. Needed the height adapter though - the 85’s must be shorter.

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Umm, slathering anti-seize onto the hub flange is not a substitute for cleaning the surface.
I scraped it off best i could with a wire brush. Didn’t have a good way to clean it properly at home. But yes I do agree with you. I will hit them next time. I’ve got to do lots of suspension work so I’ll be under there again.
 
Brake pads and brake fluid change on the Pilot today. While they have been trouble free for the last 60,000 miles, might need to check them a little more often. Noticed the brake fluid level was pretty low, and after driving the Ram for the last 3 weeks, drove the Pilot and noticed the brakes didn't feel quite like I remembered them. Wheels were pretty well frozen on and needed some extra persuasion to knock them off, and the pads were getting pretty thin. New Duralast Gold ceramic pads, flushed the brake fluid, and they feel much firmer now. Note to self, rotate the tires a little more frequently!

Now enjoying some adult beverages with the wife 🍺
 
2002 Lexus LS430, 45,000 miles.....Another auction rat belong to a car lot. With the mileage I'm guessing it sat quite a bit, Complaint of low power & A/C doesn't cool.

Knock sensor circuit DTC's in the PCM & Compressor displacement Solenoid circuit DTC, Soon as I opened the hood I caught the pungent aroma of Mice/Rat feces & urine simmering over a hot engine:sick:

Knew right away to pull the intake & sure enough both knock sensor circuits were chewed in two, Along with the intake runner vacuum actuator solenoid circuits chewed in two.

Fixed that & installed the intake, Onto the A/C issue.....

New compressor has been installed, Pulled the lid off the PCM box to access the inline connector that has the Compressor Solenoid circuits in it, No power from the A/C ECU, Applied power the solenoid & could hear the compressor start to pump but no cold air.
Threw my gauges on & it was way low on refrigerant probably cause they couldn't get it charged without the compressor pumping.
Vacuumed & charged the system.
Got it too cool but the head pressure shot up & the Condenser Fan didn't come on, Had power & ground to the fan, Smacked the motor with a pry bar & it went to work.
Found the Compressor Solenoid power circuit chewed in two under left front fuse/relay box along with another circuit, Not sure what it did but I repaired it.

Car lot declined a new Condenser Fan Motor:rolleyes:

Charged an extra 2 hours for dealing with the rodent waste, Threw the filter to my shop vac away & cleaned the tub out with soap & water as I'm very sensitive to that smell & to be honest it gives me the heebie-jeebies!
Building a 9" Ford differential for my dads '72 Olds Cutlass with a '17 6.2L LT1/8L90E.
Has a BOP 8.2" in it now with 3.73 gears. With relatively short 26" tires & the 8L90E's 4.56 1st gear ratio.....It will boil the rear tires off at will & the TCM likes to freak out & either shift way to early or too late.
2 series posi carriers for 8.2" BOP diffs are impossible to find used & no one makes a new one, While it's stronger than a GM Corporate 8.2".....It's still on the weak side.
My dad is a Ford hater through & through, So I recommended a Corporate 12-Bolt as used 2.73 gears a readily, But a 2 series Posi Carrier.....Not so much.
I finally beat him down by talking smack every other day about how the Ford 9" has no carrier breaks & the ONLY stronger differential put in passenger cars was a Dana 60 & the highest ratio available for them was a 3.07 which are also near impossible to find ;).

Found a complete 9" differential out of a 1979 Lincoln Versailles with factory disc brakes & 2.47 gears. Having Quick Performance build a new housing to fit this A-Body & supply some 31 Spline Axles.
*Yukon 31 Spline Trac-Loc posi carrier.
*Strange Daytona Pinion Support.
*Couldn't find a kit with Daytona Pinion Bearings & seal along with 2.892" carrier bearings, So I bought a kit with 3.250" carrier bearings & have 2.892" bearings ordered.
*Yukon 1310 Yoke.
*Yukon Crush Sleeve Eliminator.

I tried checking the Pinion Depth before removing the Pinion & Support cause I really want to get these gear right back where the were as the pattern is perfect. If I was reusing the original small bearing Pinion Support.....I could reuse the factory shim with confidence.
Must of got 14 different depth measurements before I caught on that the end of pinion was not flat (Not even close)
Chucked the Pinion on my lathe & trued up the pinion end.....Reassembled the pinion back into the original support & was able to get a repeatable depth measurement.
In my defense.....I'm used to aftermarket gears with machined pinion ends & the recommended depth stenciled on the pinion.

I got the Pinion & Support fully assembled with near perfect bearing preload which takes some time shimming .002" at a time.

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Got further along on the 9" Ford build for my dad's Cutlass......

Had to clearance the case a bit to clear the Posi Carrier, Not uncommon with aftermarket carriers (Arrow)
Had to add .002" of shim to get the Pinion Depth back where it was.....Meaning the Strange Daytona Pinion Support is machined VERY WELL.
Backlash was .016" originally (Gears already broke-in), Got it too .015" & called it good.
Ran a pattern & looked really good.....Right back where it was.

Spent 45 minutes cleaning inside the housing of grinding debris, Installed 2 GM Transmission Magnets in the bottom of the housing & in has a magnetic drain plug as well.
Lube-Locker Gasket, 10 new Copper Crush Washers, And new grade 8 Ny-Loc Nuts.

The company that sold me the Axle & Housing package failed to heed my request to leave the wheel bearing off the Axles, I have to install the disc brake backing plates before pressing the bearings on. So they will get a call on Monday along with a tongue lashing as I made it VERY CLEAR more than once while ordering to NOT press the wheel bearings on. And I warned the guy I'd be upset!

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This is posted for entertainment value only, and NOT put forth as an example of quality work. Furthermore mock all you want -- I can take and I deserve it. And I'd never attempt such a repair on a "nice" vehicle, nor do I accept body work jobs like this for reasons that will become obvious:

My non-profit purchased the crackhead GMT400 as so:
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A local JY actually allowed me to walk in with my M12 3" cutoff tool and cut a section out of a damaged bed. They didn't even want to charge me but I threw them $20

Roughed in:
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As good as it's going to get. I have no desire to touch body filler:
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According to the interweb this was the original color in '89:
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Me thinks the original paint may have faded a little :D
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I scraped it off best i could with a wire brush. Didn’t have a good way to clean it properly at home. But yes I do agree with you. I will hit them next time. I’ve got to do lots of suspension work so I’ll be under there again.
Wire wheel in a drill? One or two times I’ve resorted a Dremel, have one or two of the “kits” with all sorts of bits and things, a wire wheel is in there too.

That reminds me, I need to buy more wire brushes, spring is around the corner and it won’t be long before I have to check brakes on all my vehicles—I like to bust ‘em apart every spring, lube up the sliding points. Rust never sleeps.

*

Supposed to get a foot or more of snow this week. I should go work on my ATV (has a plow) as the box I put on the back so I could carry ballast decided to fall off—apparently zip ties aren’t as strong as I thought.
 
Actually pretty cool patch. Itsa truck!
And this truck is used as a truck. The bed is always full of construction supplies, lumber, tools, fence panels, dog food, trash bags etc.

Its entire life is either on our 40 acres or doing Home Depot runs, thus the lack of concern for perfect body work.
 
'06 Subaru Forester:
-new VVL oil pressure switch B2
-new plugs and wires
-oil change

-new rear struts. I opted for Gabriel Ultras because I found the right side on AWD for $16. The left side was $78 after shipping from RA

In a great twist of irony, the ($16) AWD piece was perfect. The ($78 shipped) RA unit had the brake line bracket mangled and I had to straighten with ViseGrips and stern language.
 
This is posted for entertainment value only, and NOT put forth as an example of quality work. Furthermore mock all you want -- I can take and I deserve it. And I'd never attempt such a repair on a "nice" vehicle, nor do I accept body work jobs like this for reasons that will become obvious:

My non-profit purchased the crackhead GMT400 as so:
View attachment 144650
A local JY actually allowed me to walk in with my M12 3" cutoff tool and cut a section out of a damaged bed. They didn't even want to charge me but I threw them $20

Roughed in:
View attachment 144652
As good as it's going to get. I have no desire to touch body filler:
View attachment 144653
According to the interweb this was the original color in '89:View attachment 144654

Me thinks the original paint may have faded a little :DView attachment 144655
That light blue metallic is one of my favorite colors on those trucks.
 
'89 K2500:
-questionable body work shown above
-oil change
-new pos battery cable
-new 1350 u-joint at rear pinion
-added 6 tie downs to bed: one at each lower corner and one on top of each wheelwell
-new rear brake shoes and hardware, adjusted parking brake cable
 
nursed another 2.5 hours out of my ailing gas pressure washer. It uses a size of AR pump that is common on European parts sites, and not listed at all on domestic sites. I’m looking for rebuild parts and ended up emailing a pump parts supplier to see if they can provide me with a kit. Also ordered an inlet strainer and pressure gauge; whether I repair this one or end up replacing it, both are in my “lessons learned” book at this point. In the meantime, the driveway, sidewalk and curb do look better. We have hopes of moving within the next year or so, so I’ve got to up my “home cleanliness” game.

replaced the ford factory usb “hub” thing on the f150. The truck has working usb ports again. Thank you Tasca parts!

and. Victory! I have had cab light leaks for 2 years on my aluminum bodied f150. The gaskets rotted too quickly, and the rot interfered with every kind of caulk I tried. Finally scraped it all off and a good bit out from under, re-masked with tape and applied black rtv. We’ve had several days of severe weather and my dashboard is dry!

all in all, not a bad weekend!
 
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