What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
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I vote Supertech 5W-30 lmao
Sweet. Had the same thing happen. Sales had me order a newer CX-9 roof rails and racks back in January. Called them a bunch of times and they never came in and now the voicemail is full, out of the area number and address. Another completely unrelated customer called today and needed them, "well sir, you're in luck. I have those backorderd racks in stock and if you come in today they have your name on them."
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- Nov 20, 2021
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Tuesday
Got the top side of the 4.8 Vortec buttoned up, ran a break in procedure on it, then took it for a 100 Mile drive. Got back and after it cooled I changed the oil and coolant. Should be picked up in the morning. The customer with the '07 Tahoe declined repair, so I won't be doing an R&I transmission tomorrow.
Got the top side of the 4.8 Vortec buttoned up, ran a break in procedure on it, then took it for a 100 Mile drive. Got back and after it cooled I changed the oil and coolant. Should be picked up in the morning. The customer with the '07 Tahoe declined repair, so I won't be doing an R&I transmission tomorrow.
I went through my stash and think I'm going with 3 qts of Carquest 0w-40, 1 qt of STP 10w-40, 2 qts of Castrol Edge 10w-30, and if takes any more than that it will be the first thing I grab when I reach into the stash, I think I spied a couple of qts of 5w-30 in there. Found a clearance Bosch oil filter in the box of filters too. Only the finest for a farmers field big block. I have a bunch of assorted Dex-Merc for the trans, and a couple of gallons of Supertech 10w-30 conventional for the 203 t-case.
Once the cab is up, Which is extremely easy on '09 & up F150's.....It's wide open!Yikes. In reference to the Ecoboost.I'm sure it's no issue for you but that's way out of my wheelhouse.
Turns out the Turbo Oil Feed Line was cracked....Also found that the RH Wastegate vacuum solenoid was melted from being against the exhaust, Customer is spending every last dime he has getting the oil leak fixed.....So I just cut away the melted plastic with a dremel & found a EV1 connector, Had one off a old LT1 harness. Going to put some dielectric grease in the cavity to try & keep water out.
At least the harness/connector will be repaired correctly & he can buy a solenoid later.
I find it a little odd to run across Bosch EV1 connectors on such late model vehicles.....Has to be one of the first sealed connectors as I've seen them on 70's vehicles.
I see guys do front clip swaps on '04-08 all the time (to '09-14). My understanding is that the cabs are the same? So would it be any more difficult on '04-08?Once the cab is up, Which is extremely easy on '09 & up F150's.....It's wide open!
Turns out the Turbo Oil Feed Line was cracked....Also found that the RH Wastegate vacuum solenoid was melted from being against the exhaust, Customer is spending every last dime he has getting the oil leak fixed.....So I just cut away the melted plastic with a dremel & found a EV1 connector, Had one off a old LT1 harness. Going to put some dielectric grease in the cavity to try & keep water out.
At least the harness/connector will be repaired correctly & he can buy a solenoid later.
I find it a little odd to run across Bosch EV1 connectors on such late model vehicles.....Has to be one of the first sealed connectors as I've seen them on 70's vehicles.
Not by much, They're pretty easy as well.....As the years progressed it just got easier & easier. '97-'03 aren't that bad either, But you can tell Ford didn't exactly plan to have them serviced that way.
On the '09 & up.....I can have the cab up in 20 minutes IF I don't need to heat the Core Support Mount caged nuts, I didn't on this one. But even then it's just headlight removal to access them.
I have a Air Hammer attachment I modified to a really sharp narrow point for the parking brake cable lock.
I hate this car.. I can't convince my wife to get rid of it. I might have to get rid of both. Repairs are never are one and done. Started shooting coolant out of the reservoir. Thinking the thermostat was sticking. Looks might be the factory at 172k, thought I replaced it with the head . Replaced the thermostat and the housing started leaking. After fussing with it for two hours think I got to stop dripping. Finish putting it back together tomorrow and test it. Couldn't repeat the issue though yet.
The reverse light stopped working on the Forte manual… no biggie. I thought it was the bulbs… no dice. The only other thing it could be is this “reverse light” switch. It’s a super basic design. And the switch was an honest $14 for the most expensive one on Amazon..
three hours later I now have reverse lights.
It was the location though of the said switch - It sits on the top/side of the transmission housing, pretty much against the firewall, under the shifter mechanism, cables, levers, etc. with the ABS control unit fraction of an inch from this reverse light switch.
I only had enough room to get a 15/16 socket on it…. but I had no way to turn it. Long story short I used vice grips to like grip the socket for 2 1/2 to 3 hours straight turning this reverse light switch out of the transmission housing 1/ 60th of a turn at a time.
The new ones screwed in finger tight. I snugged it up, plugged in the connector. And reassembled the air intake housing / engine control unit box. The reverse lights worked first try.
The level of frustration I felt on this project is equivalent to when I was doing the parking brake mechanisms / shoes, which was no walk in the park on this car.
The old reverse light switch
And we have success!
three hours later I now have reverse lights. It was the location though of the said switch - It sits on the top/side of the transmission housing, pretty much against the firewall, under the shifter mechanism, cables, levers, etc. with the ABS control unit fraction of an inch from this reverse light switch.
I only had enough room to get a 15/16 socket on it…. but I had no way to turn it. Long story short I used vice grips to like grip the socket for 2 1/2 to 3 hours straight turning this reverse light switch out of the transmission housing 1/ 60th of a turn at a time.
The new ones screwed in finger tight. I snugged it up, plugged in the connector. And reassembled the air intake housing / engine control unit box. The reverse lights worked first try.
The level of frustration I felt on this project is equivalent to when I was doing the parking brake mechanisms / shoes, which was no walk in the park on this car.
The old reverse light switch
And we have success!
2019 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT.
Rear brakes down to 1/32 with 54k on it.
Fairly easy job. Special place in hell for the moron that designed caliper that reverse screws back into bore. Luckily, my harbor freight took set for this came thru
Rear brakes down to 1/32 with 54k on it.
Fairly easy job. Special place in hell for the moron that designed caliper that reverse screws back into bore. Luckily, my harbor freight took set for this came thru
before Google, that reverse screw caliper retract thing took me HOURS to figure out in an 80s subaru. They had the e-brake actuate the Front calipers, and you needed a special tool, or an open set of long nose pliers, to spin them back in.
as clumsy as that was the first time, I’ll admit, the handbrake was quite effective at stopping the car.
Hermann
Site Donor 2023
Getting stuff done for my trip to the Ozarks next Wednesday.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
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Thursday
2008 Pontiac Solstice
Outer door handles, inner left door handle, blower motor resistor and repair plug, and turn signal switch. I couldn't locate a left inner handle for a solstice, so I got one for a Chevy Cobalt from AutoZone and modified it to work.
2008 Pontiac Solstice
Outer door handles, inner left door handle, blower motor resistor and repair plug, and turn signal switch. I couldn't locate a left inner handle for a solstice, so I got one for a Chevy Cobalt from AutoZone and modified it to work.
I used to commute to the local ski area with my buddy in his Subaru of the same vintage. We were young, broke and dumb and he liked to do to dumb high schooler stuff like drifting before drifting was drifting.....anyway he lamented the front wheel parking brake on the Subie!
He'd also throw it in low range while climbing on the highway when the squirrels ran out of power in a desperate attempt to not get passed by every vehicle on the road (we could usually overtake the lumbering Orion shuttle busses with rear Cummins pusher if they were fully loaded with prospective skiers!)
I've never been into those Subie t-cases but having since rebuilt several domestic truck 'cases I gotta wonder how that Subie unit survived the abuse of being forcefully shifted into low range while still going 35-40mph, even if the clutch was depressed
I've also never looked into ratios but those had to only be a ~30% reduction (guessing) because if it were the typical 2:1 or 2.7:1 things definitely would have blown up.
Ah, to be young and dumb and grow up working at a Colo ski area!
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- Nov 29, 2021
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Set last monitor after P1000 and passed inspection this morning.
I ordered a set of TYC headlights to do the same as well - I was shocked it came with Chinese-made Philips(inked stamp marks, not the nice laser etching as the German-made ones now sold as Vosla or Narva) but the rest of the bulbs were Chinese.
I’ll swap those out with Vosla HIR2s and Sylvania/Osram side marker/turn signal bulbs.
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Success achieved... P1000 gone and inspection passed on first vehicle.
Now I'm going to use the Vacuum gauge in Torque Pro to actually do some diagnosis. (Catalytic converter)
Now I'm going to use the Vacuum gauge in Torque Pro to actually do some diagnosis. (Catalytic converter)
- Set the transmission to park (automatic) or neutral (manual), and apply the parking brake.
- Disconnect the vacuum hose at the brake power booster and connect the vacuum gauge to the hose or to another direct intake manifold port.
- Start the engine and let it idle for about 15 to 20 minutes so that it reaches operating temperature.
- At idle, vacuum reading should be between 18 and 22 in-Hg (inches of Mercury).
- Increase and hold ending speed to about 3000rpm. Vacuum reading should drop but should go back to the previous level in a few seconds; otherwise, it's likely the exhaust system is blocked. Continue to the next step.
- Repeat the test, but this time, snap the throttle valve open about four times, rising engine speed to about 2500rpm. Take note of the vacuum reading with each snap of the throttle.
- If you see that gauge needle dropping steadily to near zero, most likely the catalytic converter or muffler is restricted.
- To confirm a possible restriction, loosen the back pipe from the catalytic converter just enough to allow gas to flow through.
- Repeat step 6. If vacuum doesn't drop considerably this time, you've found the blockage (back pipe or muffler). Otherwise, go to the next step.
- Loosen the header exhaust pipe from the converter just enough to allow exhaust gas to flow through.
- Repeat step 6 and take note of your vacuum readings. If your vacuum readings show normal vacuum, the converter is restricted or plugged up.