It sounds funny but our Subaru goes through a battery almost every year, it’s rather aggravatin.
We just picked up a brand new 2022 Crosstrek Limited. Few Q’s y’all
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I just bought some Pennzoil 0w20 and a Supertech MP7317 filter from Walmart. I’m glad to see Walmart Supertech brought back the #7317 size. Here it is next to the orange can of death. Gonna do the first oil change at 2500 mi. Then again at 5k and every 5k afterwards 
At 5k I might do 0w30 or 5w30 if it doesn’t void warranty. I’m not after saving unnoticeable MPG/CAFE ratings. Engine protection is priority!
This is a good example of someone trying to fix something that is not broken.
Engines come with assembly lube from the factory. If you do the first oil change before the recommended interval, which is at least 5,000 miles these days, you will wash it away and cause engine wear. Honda in particular warns against it, saying that it could cause engine damage. Metal shavings don't cause engine wear—they end up in the oil filter. Let the factory oil fill and assembly lube do their jobs of lubricating the engine during the break-in period.
Last but not least, the most important thing for the break-in period is driving gently, not the oil change. Stay under 55 mph and always accelerate very gently during the first 5,000 miles, and you will see lower oil consumption and increased engine longevity in the future. Changing the oil too soon won't help it and may even cause harm.
As far as the oil brands are concerned, it's like gasoline brands—it doesn't matter. They all use top-tier add packs from companies like Lubrizol, Infineum, and Afton, and none are superior to each other. In fact, brands like Castrol, Mobil 1, and Pennzoil tend to use in-house add packs, which may even perform worse than the third-party add packs mentioned above.
Engines come with assembly lube from the factory. If you do the first oil change before the recommended interval, which is at least 5,000 miles these days, you will wash it away and cause engine wear. Honda in particular warns against it, saying that it could cause engine damage. Metal shavings don't cause engine wear—they end up in the oil filter. Let the factory oil fill and assembly lube do their jobs of lubricating the engine during the break-in period.
Last but not least, the most important thing for the break-in period is driving gently, not the oil change. Stay under 55 mph and always accelerate very gently during the first 5,000 miles, and you will see lower oil consumption and increased engine longevity in the future. Changing the oil too soon won't help it and may even cause harm.
As far as the oil brands are concerned, it's like gasoline brands—it doesn't matter. They all use top-tier add packs from companies like Lubrizol, Infineum, and Afton, and none are superior to each other. In fact, brands like Castrol, Mobil 1, and Pennzoil tend to use in-house add packs, which may even perform worse than the third-party add packs mentioned above.
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CongratulationsMy wife is so excited to have a brand new ‘22 Crosstrek Limited after driving a 2006 Vibe for the longest time
-Should I dump the oil right away for break-in? Or maybe wait till 500 or 1000 miles?
-Don’t most cars nowadays run full synthetic from the factory?
-What oil would you run?
-Anything else I should be aware of during break-in?
on the new sube. My choice would be oe filter and any quality 0w20. 6 months or 5k whichever comes 1st would be ok for a 1st dump. These engines don't require much for break-in.
Congrats on the new ride!
I ran my Civic Type-R to 3500 on the factory fill and cut it over to pennzoil platinum 0w-20. On my girlfriend's 2021 CX-5 non turbo, I ran that to 5500 and then moved it over to Kirkland 0w-20. Zero issues on either car.
I ran my Civic Type-R to 3500 on the factory fill and cut it over to pennzoil platinum 0w-20. On my girlfriend's 2021 CX-5 non turbo, I ran that to 5500 and then moved it over to Kirkland 0w-20. Zero issues on either car.
Yep, go cheap or go home.
Another approach might be to investigate a few oils and choose one that meets your requirements for quality and value. Don't be afraid to go a little higher than bottom-of-the-barrel.
Gokhan this is scaring me now! Making me want to hold off now til 5k for the first dump
Gokhan this is scaring me now! Making me want to hold off now til 5k for the first dump
You could swing by a Toyota dealership and grab some 0w-20 TGMO which has lots and lots of moly in it. Most "break-in" oils and assembly lube is loaded with moly.
Gokhan this is scaring me now! Making me want to hold off now til 5k for the first dump
Just think about how many vehicles on the road do not get a first oil change until the normal OCI, and how often you hear about engine failures in modern cars, or even engines that don't make it to 250k because of oil related failures.
Would you say that a cheap, private label brand, or off-brand, oil would use a quality ad pack from one of these companies? Where do we put our trust? Can it be that every oil that carries the starburst logo is comparable to all others?
You say that M1, Castrol, etc., may have ad packs that are inferior to those produced by the companies you named. Did you just toss that out as an example of what could be possible, or are you suggesting that is, in fact, the case, if only in some instances? And don't ad packs work in synergy with base stocks? So, for example, if a superior base stock is used, might it be possible to successfully use a lesser ad pack?
I'm just tossing out some broad terminology as I'm well below the 50% level in understanding all this, and I'm hoping you, as more expert in these matters, will understand the points and questions I'm struggling to express. Thanks!
A recent post in this thread suggested that the venture capitalists who bought Warren might cheapen the product. Assuming that these venture capitalists are the scum of the earth and fully intend to cheapen ST and other brands, how might that be done while still meeting the requirements of the various grades and ratings?
Thanks for any input.
Congrats! Always exciting to get a new one. I would run the oe fill to about 2500 miles before changing. The oe fill has extra lubes for break in. Think M1 oils delivered free (over $ 35) from WM are hard to beat. Try the different M1 flavors and see which your car "prefers". Enjoy your new car.My wife is so excited to have a brand new ‘22 Crosstrek Limited after driving a 2006 Vibe for the longest time
-Should I dump the oil right away for break-in? Or maybe wait till 500 or 1000 miles?
-Don’t most cars nowadays run full synthetic from the factory?
-What oil would you run?
-Anything else I should be aware of during break-in?
If you ask me, I would wait until 5k miles (actually 10k in my case) and then do an oil change with the oil I prefer (actually free courtesy TGMO 0W-16 fill-up at the dealer in my case). That way, if they used a special assembly lube, it can stay longer in the engine during the break-in period. You might also want to do a UOA to find out if the factory-fill oil shows high moly and/or zinc, hinting presence of an assembly lube. Blackstone sells a pump to do a UOA while the oil is still in service.Gokhan this is scaring me now! Making me want to hold off now til 5k for the first dump
Use the 0w-20 spec oil. Use a thicker 0w-20 like M1 AFE at 8.8 vis or M1 EP at 8.6 vis. .02
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so theres 0w20 and then theres thicker 0w20. Come on now I like reading also but those are just data sheet numbers in all reality 0w20 is 0w20, 5w30 is 5w30 and so on.I'm sure you are right. Many PDS don't display HTHS so the vis is quicker and easier for me. These vis numbers are usually 2.6 HTHS which is as low as I prefer to start on vis.
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There is 0W-20, and there is stout 0W-20.
Ok I dumped the oil and filter at 2,548 mi. I spoke to a good friend of mine who’s been a Porsche technician for the last 2 decades at a very reputable dealership in the Peninsula here in NorCal. He said 1-2k miles is a good time change it out. His current build is an 800HP Audi RS3, previous builds include a 600WHP Turbo 911 and one of my own Mustangs that dynoed 410WHP N/A. I trust him completely… There is for sure gonna be metal particles floating around in the original factory fill/break-in period and I don’t like the thought of that. Even though the Porsche dealership says 10k mi. OCI’s, oil and filters are cheap to buy and the work is easy to do so why not. I feel better now that I did it early. I will continue to do it every 5k mi.
Here’s a video of the first oil change on a 2021 Porsche 992. You can see the metal particles when he opens up the filter. I’ll treat my Subie better than a Porsche! F that 10k OCI crap
Here’s a video of the first oil change on a 2021 Porsche 992. You can see the metal particles when he opens up the filter. I’ll treat my Subie better than a Porsche! F that 10k OCI crap
Im running my oil for 5k miles. Honda assy lube uses lots of Moly, and its good to just let it ride for a short but normal interval , imo
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