That viscosity is scary. Wonder if the engine could make it to 200k miles on that viscosity.
If it were me I would just use 0W-20.
We finally got some... 0W-8.
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If it were me I would just use 0W-20.
0w8? Seems it would be more practical to just make a straight 0w or 5w and be done with it.
Advance doesn’t stock 0w-16? That’s a miss, IMO. I have no use for it personally, but where I work we sell oodles of 0w-16 mobil1 which is the only one we stock. The quarts are slow sellers but the 5qt jugs move well. Lots of people DIY oil change on modern cars it seems.
That said, we don’t stock 0w-8 and even that is a fail, we have had some commercial accounts ask for it. So people must be bringing their new Toyotas to somewhere beyond the dealer for oil changes.
That said, we don’t stock 0w-8 and even that is a fail, we have had some commercial accounts ask for it. So people must be bringing their new Toyotas to somewhere beyond the dealer for oil changes.
wemay
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It is a 0w
yes it's a 0w-8 which I thought was considered a multi viscosity oil, as opposed to a straight weight without any viscosity index improvers.
It has no VM?
I’ve seen M1 AFE 0W-8 at WM. I’m using 0W-16 in a Camry that calls for the former.
Oh, but we all know a 0w16 will shear down to 0w8, so? 
Lets just say you wouldn't want to use 0W-8 at the race track.
Or in any engine that doesn't specify 0W-8 (an ISLAC GF‑6B, not a 6A speced oil).
Lets just say you wouldn't want to use 0W-8 at the race track.
Not even for drag racing ?
The Conclusion (snip below) sums it up. Viscosity is the main mitigation of wear, and the AW/AF additives (known as the "film strength") is the backup to wear protection when the film thickness due to viscosity (MOFT) goes to zero.
Machine Lubrication says the same thing. Viscosity will always be what keeps moving parts separated with an oil film, and the AW/AF additives used to mitigate wear can only go so far when the film thickness goes to zero and rubbing surfaces occur.
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/30835/lubricant-film-strength
Every car I own or service that calls for xW-20 gets a xW-30. It's a no-brainer if you want some added wear protection.
Whole different world ... it's been discussed many times. Look at what the oil temp is during the run. Oil viscosity is dependent on it's temperature. Plus, those are basically sacrificial engines.
The part nobody seems to think about is that this oil is spec'd only for hybrids which rarely actually get to full operating temperature. Maybe if they are used as cabs or something.
But remember as well that it’s important to look at BOTH the viscosities involved, AND the additive package involved. Also realize that all this is much more complex in the details, and over-simple “tastes great — less filling” debates can almost never capture all the nuance involved.
Another pertinent thought: since the late 90s when both Honda and Ford went all in specifying 5w-20 oil in multiple mainstream models, people have been freaking out endlessly about their motives and predicting certain doom for all these engines. We’re essentially THREE DECADES into the trend towards lower viscosity oils, and the junk yards are STILL not filling up with cars whose engines were killed by low viscosity oil.
It’s a good thought, but not correct except for the shortest of short trippers. Precisely to improve mileage (and emissions), the hybrids are designed to come up to op temp as quickly as possible. The early Prius used a 3.0 liter insulated reservoir to store hot coolant to inject back into the engine on the next start. The 2018 I just traded had a coolant/exhaust interface to heat coolant quickly. I’m still learning the new 25 Camry, so I’m not yet sure how, but it too heats up very quickly. I’ve got a ScanGauge-III installed and monitor both coolant and oil temperatures. I’ve seen coolant hit 180-190F in as little as two miles of driving (yes, that fast). The oil takes a little longer, and stabilizes around 170F, unless I get on the highway, in which case it runs 200F-ish. But it all happens surprisingly quickly. Bottom line: for better or worse, the 0w-8 oil is going to be running and high temperatures, very quickly.
The other aspect that so often gets ignored in these discussions is the start-up wear question. The lower vis of the 0w-8 oils when cold, even compared to the 16s and 20s should produce a significant advantage in initial pumping. I have the ScanGauge-III set up to display oil pressure as well, and the rise to full pressure happens INSTANTLY upon the ICE starting. That should count for something.
Fact is, oil used to be amazing, engines lasted forever. Now oil is government oil, is garbage, and engines are dying long before 100,000 miles again. Took the viscosity down to water, took the zinc out, and here we are. Honda engines are been blowing apart too at low milage, in case you haven't noticed. Instead of responding with "please cite" go peruse the forums yourself. I HAD ONE the engine was junk at 80,000 miles despite a 1000 mile break in change, 5,000 mile intervals with high end synthetic, warmed gently and quickly, etc. I thought it was Honda going to hell, but now am beginning to realize IT WAS THE OIL all along.
How an oil centered forum like this, has missed this completely, and still keeps coming up with excuses blows me away.
Engines back in the day made like... 50 hp/L. It's easy to make something last when it makes no power.
The biggest issue with blown engines today is LSPI, not oil related issues.
That is just another excuse. When the Jeep 4.0 engines are starting to die too, at HALF the milage they used to, IT IS THE OIL, unless AMC just started adding turbo DI to their 1993 straight six engines.
I get where you are coming from. I was in that mindset too. Step outside the box for a while. Just try to think, once in a while "maybe it really is the oil that is the problem."
It is GOVERNMENT oil now. It is not the oil makers making the best darn oil they can, it is oil makers trying to make oil within government regulations. Government IS NOT HELPING.
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Not how this works.
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