Waxing question (again)

[Nissan101]

Sorry if Im annoying to some,

I searched the net, and there is little information as the waiting period after painting a car to wax.
Anyone on here have experience in this area and can give me a proper answer?
I already spoke to the painter, the answer he gave me was 'I dont need to wax this car as the shine would last"
The shine do last as its a good quality paint....sikkens is the brand

But i still want to wax and protect it using meguiars ultimate wax.

MY question is.....how long after painting my car should i wait before applying wax?

 

[PimTac]

Wait a month to six weeks.

 

[paulri]

When I had my Civic repainted by Maaco (they use Sherwin Williams paint), they said to wait for 30 days before waxing.

 

[Nissan101]

Its been 90 days + since the paint work have been done.

 

[StevieC]

Waxing is fine if it has been 90 days. And a sealant will last longer than just a wax.

 

[danez_yoda]

Yup paint is fully cured now.

Make sure you clean the paint well with soft towels and clean applicators. Mf or foam.

Most scratched get on paint from poor washing technique or buffing too hard with a dirty or rough towel.

Your meguiars ultimate is a good choice. Go thin and easy. No need to rub your elbow off. You're just layering on a coat not buffing the paint.

Use two buckets or one big one. Keep the mit as wet as you can. Dip and rinse often.

I like the Absorber synthetic chammis. Its like a thin flat spongue. You wet it, wring it out then it will suck up water really well.

 

[demarpaint]

I'd wait at least 30 days, even a little longer if possible. I would avoid any wax or sealant that contains cleaners. A freshly painted vehicle doesn't need a wax or sealant that contains cleaners. There are some paints that should never have cleaners applied to them. The less expensive paint jobs that Maaco turns out using Sherwin Williams enamel should never have a cleaner wax applied to it.

 

[paulri]

That's good to know. Can you explain why?

Originally Posted by demarpaint
There are some paints that should never have cleaners applied to them. The less expensive paint jobs that Maaco turns out using Sherwin Williams enamel should never have a cleaner wax applied to it.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted by paulri
That's good to know. Can you explain why?

Originally Posted by demarpaint
There are some paints that should never have cleaners applied to them. The less expensive paint jobs that Maaco turns out using Sherwin Williams enamel should never have a cleaner wax applied to it.



First let me clarify my statement. When I had a van sprayed by Maaco with a one part enamel I was told NO CLEANER WAXES are to be used on that paint. I was told to use a good Carnauba wax that contained no cleaners, Mothers makes one IIRC. The reasons given when I asked why were as follows: 1. chemicals used as cleaners in certain waxes can actually damage the enamel they used 2. I had a fresh paint job there was zero need for a cleaner wax. So people go hog wild on new paint with cleaners, polishes, and cleaner waxes, when all they need is a good wax or sealant that contains no cleaners.

I went for their economy one stage enamel paint job, so they were covering their butt because it was a cheap paint. The job turned out and following their instructions it held up fine for several years. This was many years ago, so I would ask the painter now.

 

[NYSteve]

For freshly painted waxes, you want something that is body shop safe. These are the ones that are for most part wax free and also won't interfere with the paint prep of other vehicles in the shop (imagine getting wax on a primered vehicle and how terrible the paint would turn out!!).

These are the types of products that are used by the custom car shows on velocity, since they aren't waiting 30/60/90 days for a car to cure before kicking out to the customer.

With all that said, if it's your personal vehicle, just wait 3 months.

 

[paulri]

The one I got was their most expensive they offered to individuals, so that might not apply to my paint job. It was a separate clear & base coat.

But I see the idea of abrasives in the cleaner wax irritating the paint. That just seemed like an extreme statement to make, but yeah, detailers always talk about how there are abrasives in cleaner wax that will do the cleaning.

Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by paulri
That's good to know. Can you explain why?

Originally Posted by demarpaint
There are some paints that should never have cleaners applied to them. The less expensive paint jobs that Maaco turns out using Sherwin Williams enamel should never have a cleaner wax applied to it.



First let me clarify my statement. When I had a van sprayed by Maaco with a one part enamel I was told NO CLEANER WAXES are to be used on that paint. I was told to use a good Carnauba wax that contained no cleaners, Mothers makes one IIRC. The reasons given when I asked why were as follows: 1. chemicals used as cleaners in certain waxes can actually damage the enamel they used 2. I had a fresh paint job there was zero need for a cleaner wax. So people go hog wild on new paint with cleaners, polishes, and cleaner waxes, when all they need is a good wax or sealant that contains no cleaners.

I went for their economy one stage enamel paint job, so they were covering their butt because it was a cheap paint. The job turned out and following their instructions it held up fine for several years. This was many years ago, so I would ask the painter now.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted by paulri
The one I got was their most expensive they offered to individuals, so that might not apply to my paint job. It was a separate clear & base coat.

But I see the idea of abrasives in the cleaner wax irritating the paint. That just seemed like an extreme statement to make, but yeah, detailers always talk about how there are abrasives in cleaner wax that will do the cleaning.

Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by paulri
That's good to know. Can you explain why?

Originally Posted by demarpaint
There are some paints that should never have cleaners applied to them. The less expensive paint jobs that Maaco turns out using Sherwin Williams enamel should never have a cleaner wax applied to it.



First let me clarify my statement. When I had a van sprayed by Maaco with a one part enamel I was told NO CLEANER WAXES are to be used on that paint. I was told to use a good Carnauba wax that contained no cleaners, Mothers makes one IIRC. The reasons given when I asked why were as follows: 1. chemicals used as cleaners in certain waxes can actually damage the enamel they used 2. I had a fresh paint job there was zero need for a cleaner wax. So people go hog wild on new paint with cleaners, polishes, and cleaner waxes, when all they need is a good wax or sealant that contains no cleaners.

I went for their economy one stage enamel paint job, so they were covering their butt because it was a cheap paint. The job turned out and following their instructions it held up fine for several years. This was many years ago, so I would ask the painter now.



I would ask anyway. I don't see the need after a fresh paint job has cured to use a cleaner wax. I'd use a good paint sealant that doesn't have any cleaners in it, or a carnuba wax like Mothers offers w/o the cleaner and use that until something with a cleaner is needed. My 08 Liberty is going on 11 years old now. All I have done to it was use a good car soap, clay bar, and products that don't contain any cleaners or abrasives on it. The paint still looks good. If/when the time comes, it will get something with a very mild cleaner, and then be topped off and maintained with something with no cleaners.

 

[funkymonkey1111]

Let us know how it turns out

 

[JFAllen]

Just to clarify:

THERE ARE NO WAXES OR SEALANTS THAT ARE CONSIDERED BODYSHOP SAFE

Megs. Final Inspection is about s close as you're going to get to a bodyshop safe wax / sealant. but it's just used to present cars to customers and offers no real protection. Wax's and Sealant's contain either hydrophobic polymers (silicone polymers / carrnuba / montam / ...) by definition, as they are intended to form a hydrophobic barrier on the paint as the polymers dry and harden. That's literally how they work to seal the paint surface.

Why this is bad on a freshly painted car is that there are still gas's and solvents in the paint that need to flash off as the paint drys / hardens. If sealed these volatiles cannot escape and some damage can occur.

Bodyshop safe polishes & compounds[/b] can be used earlier on as these do-not form a protective layer. They also don't contain organic solvents that can react with the 'as yet not fully cured paint.' Regular non-bodyshop-safe polished often contain organic based carriers as it improves their working time and easy of use over purely water based products. Even so many painters will wat a good amount of time (4-6 weeks as has been mentioned, or even longer in the winter. Unless they can bake the car, but even then they'll wait at least a week) before they even touch the car with a polisher. As you want the paint to be fully cured / hardened before you start to apply heat with a mechanical polisher.

As for cleaner waxes (All-In-One's.) Once the paint is cured they're safe, they simply have a mild abrasive as part of the formulation. As in they polish and seal. No different than using a polish and then a wax / sealant. Different companies use different carriers, but once again if the paint is dry, you're safe. If the paint is not dry, products with light organic solvent carriers (NuFinish and Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell come to mind) are likely to damage the paint as th solvent carrier reacts with the un-cured paint.

Basically:

if the paint is still 'wet' leave it alone.

If the paint is 'dry' go your hardest. most body shops do with a rotary and wool pad as a stage 1 cut when finalizing a paint job.

Regards
Jordan

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted by JFAllen
Just to clarify:

THERE ARE NO WAXES OR SEALANTS THAT ARE CONSIDERED BODYSHOP SAFE

Megs. Final Inspection is about s close as you're going to get to a bodyshop safe wax / sealant. but it's just used to present cars to customers and offers no real protection. Wax's and Sealant's contain either hydrophobic polymers (silicone polymers / carrnuba / montam / ...) by definition, as they are intended to form a hydrophobic barrier on the paint as the polymers dry and harden. That's literally how they work to seal the paint surface.

Why this is bad on a freshly painted car is that there are still gas's and solvents in the paint that need to flash off as the paint drys / hardens. If sealed these volatiles cannot escape and some damage can occur.

Bodyshop safe polishes & compounds[/b] can be used earlier on as these do-not form a protective layer. They also don't contain organic solvents that can react with the 'as yet not fully cured paint.' Regular non-bodyshop-safe polished often contain organic based carriers as it improves their working time and easy of use over purely water based products. Even so many painters will wat a good amount of time (4-6 weeks as has been mentioned, or even longer in the winter. Unless they can bake the car, but even then they'll wait at least a week) before they even touch the car with a polisher. As you want the paint to be fully cured / hardened before you start to apply heat with a mechanical polisher.

As for cleaner waxes (All-In-One's.) Once the paint is cured they're safe, they simply have a mild abrasive as part of the formulation. As in they polish and seal. No different than using a polish and then a wax / sealant. Different companies use different carriers, but once again if the paint is dry, you're safe. If the paint is not dry, products with light organic solvent carriers (NuFinish and Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell come to mind) are likely to damage the paint as th solvent carrier reacts with the un-cured paint.

Basically:

if the paint is still 'wet' leave it alone.

If the paint is 'dry' go your hardest. most body shops do with a rotary and wool pad as a stage 1 cut when finalizing a paint job.

Regards
Jordan


I still ask why would you want to apply a cleaner wax to a freshly repainted car? There is no need for a mild cleaner, or abrasive on a virgin cured paint job delivered from a paint shop. A few years down the road if needed yes. Otherwise I'll stick to the wisdom of the auto paint experts, saying use a product w/o a cleaner, and save the mild abrasives for when they'e really needed. A good body shop did all that work when they finalized the job.

 

[PimTac]

One thing I have changed in my wax routine is that I don't use circular motions anymore to apply the wax. I use straight lines.

You will see less swirls over time.

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted by PimTac
One thing I have changed in my wax routine is that I don't use circular motions anymore to apply the wax. I use straight lines.

You will see less swirls over time.


Chris Fix?

 

[PimTac]

I have no idea who Chris Fix is.

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted by PimTac
I have no idea who Chris Fix is.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ef_-SNSnByg

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted by JFAllen
Just to clarify:


If the paint is 'dry' go your hardest. most body shops do with a rotary and wool pad as a stage 1 cut when finalizing a paint job.

Regards
Jordan


Wool pads are 100% not recommended for base/clear.
On new paint I wouldn't use any sort of abrasive or solvent cleaner wax. On 3 month oil paint I would just use a ultra fine clay bare and a pure non abrasive wax.