Water Heater

[GGorman04]

I have a gas fired water heater that is approaching 7 years old. Being that my basement has some valuables, is there any maintenance I can do to prolong its life? What do I need to look for?
Thanks in advance

 

[JC1]

How hard is the water in your area? I would drain the tank to try and get most of the calcium build up in the tank. You could also investigate replacing the anode rod (aka corrosion bar).

Check out this link http://www.familyhandyman.com/plumbing/w...de-rod/view-all

You can also search youtube as well.

Regards, JC.

 

[Rand]

replacing the anode

 

[440Magnum]

Yearly or twice-a-year drain, replace anode every 5.

But realistically, just replace the water heater if this hadn't been done already. There's a good chance the anode is solidly corroded in place by now, and there's enough scale buildup that a drain/flush wouldn't do much good by now.

 

[Donald]

Water alarm on basement floor after draining the heater every year and replace the anode every 2 or 3.

 

[Dave Sherman]

If it's near a drain, there are pans for water heaters to catch leaks and direct the water out through a pipe. Just make sure it's a metal pan. Not a plastic one. Voice of experience.

 

[GGorman04]

thanks for the tips.
The water is hard in our area so that may be a problem.
Do some drain the unit every year?
To drain it do you have to shut off the gas supply?

 

[Quattro Pete]

I drain mine every year or every other year when I forget. Our water isn't too hard...

http://www.aricoplumbing.com/waterheater/waterheater-draining.aspx

However...

http://www.wral.com/why-draining-your-hot-water-heater-might-be-a-mistake/12282424/

Not sure how much truth there is to it.

 

[rjundi]

Move your valuables to higher ground?

If on town water a plumber will know average life of water heaters for your town.

 

[Wolf359]

There's a few things you can do such as replacing the anode rod. I have several water heaters and replaced about 8 anode rods so far. For myself, got the 4 pack which worked out to about $13 each with shipping from:

http://www.comfortgurus.com/product_info.php/cPath/581_859_709/products_id/7434

I've been able to get all the old rods out although some came out easier than others. On some, I had to use a 1/2 breaker bar which was 18 inches and then I added a 4 foot iron pipe to it to get extra leverage to unscrew the bolt. Used a 6 point socket to avoid stripping the nut. Also for some reason the standard size was cheapest, just used a sawsall to cut the rod down to size to fit short water heaters. It's funny how they charge extra for shorter ones or thinner ones. The thicker the rod, the longer it should last.

You can also install a WAGS valve also known as a water and gas shut off valve. You would still end up with 40 gallons of water from the tank, but it should shut it off once it starts leaking otherwise you have endless water in the basement. Taco makes ones.

As for draining the tank, you could just switch it over to pilot so it's not firing when draining or just turn the dial to vacation. You just need to drain enough out to get the sediment out of the tank which might not be the full 40. Only danger in draining the tank is if the drain valve doesn't close afterwards and drips, then it's time for a new drain valve. A problem if you have those cheap plastic drain valves instead of brass.

 

[GGorman04]

thanks to all for the tips!
I have been told in our area expect 7 to 10 years from the water heater.

 

[Kuato]

Shut it off and give the area inside the access panel a good vacuuming/dusting, make sure not to hit anything delicate in there. This is from a guy that installed them for a living.

 

[JethroBodine]

Originally Posted By: GGorman04
thanks to all for the tips!
I have been told in our area expect 7 to 10 years from the water heater.


If you flush off the sediment every 6 months you can get 10 years. Then simply change out the tank. Get the galvanized drip pan for under the tank and fit PVC to the nearest drain.

 

[GGorman04]

Flush off meaning about 5 gallons worth?
The closest drain would be a sump pump.

 

[GGorman04]

Im suprised at how much a galvanized drip try sells for.
Any good place to buy from?

 

[GGorman04]

Dave I gotta ask.... What happened with your plastic drip tray?

 

[JethroBodine]

Originally Posted By: GGorman04
Im suprised at how much a galvanized drip try sells for.
Any good place to buy from?


Lowes, HD

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Camco-Aluminu...51#.Ugpg0NK1H3s

 

[GGorman04]

Thanks for the link. My local hardware store lists it at 31.99

 

[DBMaster]

I replaced my original in 2007 (11 years old) because it was making "bubbling" sounds due to sediment build up. That also caused it to be less than efficient at heating the water. The one I bought was Home Depot's "best" gas water heater (GE branded, but made by Rheem). I have tried draining sediment, but I never get anything substantial out of it. I installed a new shutoff valve (ball type) due to the fact that the cheap Chinese valve the builder used would not shut off the water flow. I then opened up the biggest faucet I could find in the house (the garden tub) and drained some water. Nothing but clean water came out.

I have seen, in the past, the drain valves not seal completely after draining if sediment gets stuck in them. I always cap my drain valves just in case.

I purchased a new anode rod last year with the intention of changing it. I tried my electric impact wrench and a big breaker bar. All I succeeded in doing was shifting the entire, full unit a couple of inches. The darn thing won't budge. Mine is on a platform in the garage and I have confirmed that the garage floor slopes toward the overhead door. I see the heater every time I pull into the garage so I would be able to catch any leaks very quickly.

If anyone has any tips on how to remove the original anode rod I welcome them, btw!

 

[GGorman04]

Great question. From what I have read, they are very difficult to remove