Thanks for the info, I thought that was the heater because it says fan
Would these be good? @RDY4WAR
Thanks for the links!That manifold, yes. That would be a good improvement over the stock iron intake.
I've never liked carter style carbs such as the Edelbrock 1406. The Summit carb would be my preference. However, I'd recommend this carb below. It's a 600 CFM 4160 style like the Summit you linked, but will hook right up to your manual choke. The Summit carb has an electric choke, which there's nothing wrong with that, but it would be an extra step for you to setup.
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I would also pair it with this carb spacer. The 4-hole spacer essentially extends the venturi which improves the metering signal at low rpm. Being phenolic plastic, it also creates a barrier between the carb and the intake heat to help prevent fuel percolation and vapor lock.
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Don't forget the manifold gaskets.
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You'll also need a different air filter to fit the 5-1/8" 4 barrel.
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Thanks for the links!
Would the truck have a lot more power? Is it worth the money?
The motor runs well for cruising. When pushing it to higher RPMs it is not super excited. After Redline Fuel System Cleaner it revs better.When that engine was new, it made 195 HP @ 4800 rpm and 285 TQ @ 2400 rpm. That's with the factory 2 barrel. Given the age and mileage, it's making less than that now. The power improvement won't be mind boggling, but will be noticeable. You're unlikely to see much low end torque increase, maybe 5-6 lb-ft. The biggest difference would be >3000 rpm, likely seeing 15-20 hp increase at 4500-5000 rpm.
Whether it's worth it kinda depends. Considering the rpm you cruise at, I would say so, but you may feel differently.
That is not the choke as I recall. The choke is the third from the left pullout on the left side (it goes headlights, wiper / washer, choke) and someone has altered it in the truck's life, the knob is not stock, not a big deal just an observation. The OP should be able to follow the choke cable back from the carb to the firewall then under the dash to the correct knob to verify 100%. This is a manual choke equipped Rochester 2 bbls.I'd ditch that little 1 barrel and old heavy iron intake manifold. A budget aluminum dual plane intake and 600 carb would wake that engine up A LOT and drive better to boot. A 500 2 bbl would be a good upgrade also.
This is your choke...
View attachment 127485
Inside the engine bay, this is the choke linkage coming from that knob in circled in the dash above. It goes to that lever which controls that valve at the top of the carb. When you pull the choke, it closes that valve, allowing engine vacuum (while cranking) to pull fuel into the engine to help it start.
View attachment 127486
Makes more sense to fix your choke pull off issue on your 283 instead of warming up wastefully in the driveway.My Chevy 283 likes to be warmed up or she stalls at the stop sign down the road.
How long should I be letting her idle in the driveway? It seems to take a good 10 minutes at idle before I can drive and the motor isn't unpredictable.
I know many say to start driving a car right away because it warms up faster. With an old motor what should I be doing? This is my first carburated car and I assume letting it idle to get some heat is better.
That is not the choke as I recall. The choke is the third from the left pullout on the left side (it goes headlights, wiper / washer, choke) and someone has altered it in the truck's life, the knob is not stock, not a big deal just an observation.