Warm Up Question

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I was going off where the linkage was going from the carb and the style of the knob. I probably shouldn't have assumed that.

I ran the engine through Engine Analyzer Pro and this is what it spit out. With an Edelbrock Performer intake and 600 4 bbl carb, it predicts a +30 HP gain and +10 TQ gain.

283ci SBC with intake and carb.jpeg
 
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I was going off where the linkage was going from the carb and the style of the knob. I probably shouldn't have assumed that.

I ran the engine through Engine Analyzer Pro and this is what it spit out. With an Edelbrock Performer intake and 600 4 bbl carb, it predicts a +30 HP gain and +10 TQ gain.

View attachment 127559
For the general rpm use of that truck, those benefits are negligible. How often will it see north of 4,000 RPM? But that assumes the 2-Jet is up to snuff, etc.
I would start with optimizing the exhaust. Of course, a nice aluminum intake and new carb (with electric choke) just might improve driveability.
It all depends on what the owner wants... My goal would be as stock as possible. I pulled all the aftermarket ignition stuff off my old Vette and went back to points and the original coil.
 
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A ‘64 would have a pull out choke I would imagine. There should be a pull out knob on the dashboard labeled CHOKE. If not then is there a hole where a knob might have been?...
Manual chokes had been pretty much obsolete on US cars at least 10 years by then. (Our base-model '54 Chevy had automatic choke.) Trucks and Japanese cars still had manual chokes later.
 

HondOtaChOrd

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For the general rpm use of that truck, those benefits are negligible. How often will it see north of 4,000 RPM? But that assumes the 2-Jet is up to snuff, etc.
I would start with optimizing the exhaust. Of course, a nice aluminum intake and new carb (with electric choke) just might improve driveability.
It all depends on what the owner wants... My goal would be as stock as possible. I pulled all the aftermarket ignition stuff off my old Vette and went back to points and the original coil.
What kind of exhaust would you recommend?
 
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I'd ditch that little 1 barrel and old heavy iron intake manifold. A budget aluminum dual plane intake and 600 carb would wake that engine up A LOT and drive better to boot. A 500 2 bbl would be a good upgrade also.

This is your choke...

View attachment 127485

Inside the engine bay, this is the choke linkage coming from that knob in circled in the dash above. It goes to that lever which controls that valve at the top of the carb. When you pull the choke, it closes that valve, allowing engine vacuum (while cranking) to pull fuel into the engine to help it start.

View attachment 127486
Good eye, RDY4WAR - I saw that carb and thought "That looks like an old 1-bbl - Rochester Monojet maybe? Nah, can't be on a V8!"

Edit: OK, I see it's been identified as a 2-bbl. Phew, the universe is back in balance.
 
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Is the air cleaner housing removed from this, or is it gone altogether? I recall there being a heat riser and some tubing going up to the snorkel on at least some carb setups, that way some preheated air could start getting into the carb and helping with running after cold start. Often removed ’cuz it didn’t look cool and obviously stole horsepower. :)

You can figure out which knob is choke real quick. Take note of the choke setting on the carb, then go into the cab and pull each one, one at a time, until it moves. Looks like a rod setup so you might be able to just move it from the carb side and then look to see what moved in the cab.
Yup, I was wondering whether the engine had been equipped with a heat stove originally. Didn't they used to say AC Autothermac or something like that? There was some sort of control to regulate the hot air scavenged from the exhaust manifold.

I also wonder whether there's a heat riser valve between the passenger-side exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe. They often seize up in one position or the other.
 
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1st off is do the least expensive and easiest (also smallest results) fuel filters, a c, etc. During this time U can 1). save some money; 2). do some research (what are original components on this vehicle, what capable of, what is actually on vehicle - its 50+ y/o & OP could have swapped out). Last a) are there modern components to improve proformance (that's pep'n MPGs) and b) what are they? Get everything at it's optimal B4 swap outs. U may B pleaantly supprised. Do a budget: $ & time (what can I afford, what is my APPLICATION ie end product use) what needs done by others? what tools might I need for DIY?
My suggestion? do a good ignition tune up FIRST, then a full carb/fuel tune (do the whole of each subsystem). Many 'carb issues' R actually ignition based. There are good manuals for these inc haynes & chiltons, but cheb dealers (factory mechanics) have the best. U can get one on-line if interested. Any carb help? I like Mike's ( https://www.carburetor-parts.com He told me he has thousands of carb rebuild vids on the net) as he sells good kits. "...kinda exhaust?... = abt a 5 -10% power increase.
 
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Manual chokes had been pretty much obsolete on US cars at least 10 years by then. (Our base-model '54 Chevy had automatic choke.) Trucks and Japanese cars still had manual chokes later.
My '79 Mazda GLC Sport had a nice set-up - a manual choke that came off automatically as the engine warmed up.

That car started amazingly well even in extremely cold conditions.
 
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Yup, I was wondering whether the engine had been equipped with a heat stove originally. Didn't they used to say AC Autothermac or something like that? There was some sort of control to regulate the hot air scavenged from the exhaust manifold.

I also wonder whether there's a heat riser valve between the passenger-side exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe. They often seize up in one position or the other.
even flapper dor in the a c snorkle. This yr is not above the rapidly comming 'running cleaner' mods. Carb may havea lill tube running dwn to the ex manifod (nother style of 'stove'). I think it's a lill too early for the round corrigated silver covered tube to ac (air cleaner) housing.

It's great U got pic now dude. Can U show some from pass side of engine/carb (still w/ac housing off).
 
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1st off is do the least expensive and easiest (also smallest results) fuel filters, a c, etc. During this time U can 1). save some money; 2). do some research (what are original components on this vehicle, what capable of, what is actually on vehicle - its 50+ y/o & OP could have swapped out). Last a) are there modern components to improve proformance (that's pep'n MPGs) and b) what are they? Get everything at it's optimal B4 swap outs. U may B pleaantly supprised. Do a budget: $ & time (what can I afford, what is my APPLICATION ie end product use) what needs done by others? what tools might I need for DIY?
My suggestion? do a good ignition tune up FIRST, then a full carb/fuel tune (do the whole of each subsystem). Many 'carb issues' R actually ignition based. There are good manuals for these inc haynes & chiltons, but cheb dealers (factory mechanics) have the best. U can get one on-line if interested. Any carb help? I like Mike's ( https://www.carburetor-parts.com He told me he has thousands of carb rebuild vids on the net) as he sells good kits. "...kinda exhaust?... = abt a 5 -10% power increase.
Agreed on the tune-up, which is a delight to do on an old SBC.

AC plugs gapped to 0.035", dwell angle set to 30°, timing set to 4° BTDC, mixture set to fastest idle, idle set to c. 750 in N ...good memories!
 
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The truck should have rams horn manifolds which were the best cast iron exhaust gm had. A set of duals with some free flowing mufflers is all it needs.
Spot on. I like cheap muffler shop turbo mufflers and tips out the back. Of course a basic muffler would be nice and quiet, if that's desired.
You can save a little by just using turn downs after the rear. No need for big pipes on that little 283 and RPM range.
Such an exhaust would give a nice flat torque curve and make that engine a smoothie.

Exhaust is always my 1st upgrade/fix after tune up and fluids. I would keep the 2-Jet. Good carbs. Depends on what you want.
 
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Agreed on the tune-up, which is a delight to do on an old SBC.

AC plugs gapped to 0.035", dwell angle set to 30°, timing set to 4° BTDC, mixture set to fastest idle, idle set to c. 750 in N ...good memories!
It will run a lot better if you set the timing to 34-36 btdc @3000 rpm which makes the timing about 10-12 btdc @ idle
 
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It will run a lot better if you set the timing to 34-36 btdc @3000 rpm which makes the timing about 10-12 btdc @ idle
It's been a long time, but I think the 4° BTDC was set with the vacuum advance line off and plugged. That may have translated to the 10 - 12° you've cited.

And of course you know that you can play with the weights to vary the mechanical advance.
 
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