Warm Up Question

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Nov 5, 2022
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My Chevy 283 likes to be warmed up or she stalls at the stop sign down the road.

How long should I be letting her idle in the driveway? It seems to take a good 10 minutes at idle before I can drive and the motor isn't unpredictable.

I know many say to start driving a car right away because it warms up faster. With an old motor what should I be doing? This is my first carburated car and I assume letting it idle to get some heat is better.
 
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When I used to drive un-choked carburetor cars, until it warmed up I would brake with my left foot and tap the accelerator at stops. The shots of fuel from the accelerator pump would let it run rich enough to keep running.

But it shouldn't take 10 minutes to be drivable. Does the choke work at all? It also sounds like the exhaust crossover under the carb is either blocked or clogged.
 
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down in the park
My Chevy 283 likes to be warmed up or she stalls at the stop sign down the road.

How long should I be letting her idle in the driveway? It seems to take a good 10 minutes at idle before I can drive and the motor isn't unpredictable.

I know many say to start driving a car right away because it warms up faster. With an old motor what should I be doing? This is my first carburated car and I assume letting it idle to get some heat is better.

is the carb set up and working correctly? shouldn't be running odd for 10 minutes, just rich.
 
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You need to have the choke system adjusted. Any old carbureted vehicle is perfectly capable of being driven away as easily as an EFI car if the choke system is properly adjusted. I sit only long enough to put my seat belt on in my Impala (and any of the other cars I have owned, Rochester or Holley equipped), plug my phone in and then I am in gear backing out my driveway and driving away. If you want to tackle it yourself; start with making sure the choke blade closes fully when cold. To set the choke, you fully depress the gas pedal once (possibly a few times if the vehicle is difficult to start or if it is cold out), this sets the choke and squirts fuel into the manifold to be made available for vaporization. When the engine starts the choke pull-off will crack open the choke blade a pre-determined amount (critical measurement), this is fully adjustable and you will need the specs for your particular carb. If it is 100% original and stock, the specs are easily available, I have them if you provide your carb number. If you are using an aftermarket carb or if any changes have been made to the vehicle (hotter cam, aluminum manifold, headers etc.) you will need to adjust this accordingly to suit the modified engine. You will also need to verify operation of the fast idle cam and that the fast idle RPM is correct. As the vehicle warms up and the choke coil gradually warms up, the choke blade will start to open and the fast idle cam will drop sequentially lower and lower finally to the lowest step. The choke pull-off / fast idle symbiotic relationship is also important for the first start, your fast idle cam will be on the highest step and even though the choke pull-off has cracked the choke blade open you will remain on very high idle (~2000 RPM) until you "blip" the gas pedal, then the fast idle will drop to the next setting. Many techs / tuners etc. people don't get this relationship right. If your vehicle is not 100% original / stock someone may have disabled the choke system... that is common.
 
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HondOtaChOrd

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Are you using an oil with a 0W, 5W, 10W or 20W winter rating?
Not sure what's in it currently, just bought it. I plan to change the oil to Shell Rotella T5 15W-40 today.

It is a 64 Chevy C10 and I think the motor is original.

As far as the choke I have not been able to find any button or lever for it. Could it be electric? I will be taking the carb off and cleaning it soon.
 
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I put a lot of miles on 283's, didn't do long warmups and they didn't die at the first stop either.
 
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A ‘64 would have a pull out choke I would imagine. There should be a pull out knob on the dashboard labeled CHOKE. If not then is there a hole where a knob might have been?

The other suggestions regarding the carburetor are good. Check the float too.
 
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If you remove the air cleaner and take a couple high res pictures of your carb from a few angles I will tell you exactly what style of choke your vehicle has. Original will be a mechanical choke (choke coil ensconced in a well in the manifold, with a linkage connected to the carb), aftermarket will possibly be electric but may well still be mechanical. As mentioned, it could be manual as well. Many people converted their automatic chokes back to manual back in the day.
 
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The issue could be fuel vaporization. With a carburetor, the fuel doesn't atomize well in the venturi. Heat in the intake manifold helps vaporize the fuel before it enters the cylinders. If there's little heat in the engine, the fuel doesn't vaporize well, and you can get a stall issue like that.

Brotella... 🤮

What intake manifold and carb is on it? If you can post a picture of the engine, that would help to see what we're working with.

The issue could also be related to spark timing. Does it have vacuum advance? If so, where is it connected?

It could be a choke issue like mentioned above. It's also possible that the idle speed is just set too low. With my carb engines, even when it's 20-30°F, I'll idle maybe 30 seconds at most and I'm driving.
 
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Not sure what's in it currently, just bought it. I plan to change the oil to Shell Rotella T5 15W-40 today.

It is a 64 Chevy C10 and I think the motor is original.

As far as the choke I have not been able to find any button or lever for it. Could it be electric? I will be taking the carb off and cleaning it soon.
Don't bother with oil, get whatever is appropriate for the season and specs. Your problem is in the fuel delivery & mix, it's running too lean
you need (if not EFI) a new choke or this one adjusted.
 
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The choke is not working correctly. Either out of adjustment or has worn parts. The days of shops that could fix your 64 are long gone. Today's guys can't diagnose a problem without a computer plugged in.

You will be fixing this yourself.
A few shops i've been too won't touch my 83 with a Qjet, said they won't mess with anything 95 and older, had a good mechanic that would work on old skool cars but has since retired. :(
 
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Back then they were called the Apache. Nice looking trucks.

I’m waiting for pictures too.
 
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